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  1. #1
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    Default Tow Ball removal - Genuine BRP tow Hitch

    Hi guys,

    Trying to replace the 1 7/8" towball on BRP Genuine tow hitch and not having much luck. But a breaker bar on the ring spanner and started to drag the RTL across the floor.

    1. Is the nut welded to the tow hitch?
    2. Or, is it a bolt that screws up into the tow ball, requiring me to latch onto the tow ball with something to remove?
    3. Or is it just firken tight?
    2017 RTL , White

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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    Hi guys,

    Trying to replace the 1 7/8" towball on BRP Genuine tow hitch and not having much luck. But a breaker bar on the ring spanner and started to drag the RTL across the floor.

    1. Is the nut welded to the tow hitch? NO
    2. Or, is it a bolt that screws up into the tow ball, requiring me to latch onto the tow ball with something to remove? YES
    3. Or is it just firken tight? That too
    Commments next to questions

    Got a good impact gun?

    Or take it to a hitch shop they will get it off

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Heat the nut and it will come off. You don't need a torch, you can heat it with a little propane unit.

    If you have an impact, heat it and then use the impact on it.

    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  4. #4
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Pretty sure the book spec torque is super tight. Guessing you will need a 3/4” drive Breaker Bar and socket to get it loose.

    Curious, are you removing it to install a basket rack?

  5. #5
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    Most auto parts stores have 1/2 “ drive sets to borrow. Big breaker bar. Wrench on the base.
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  6. #6
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    Hi PMK, in Australia the tow ball standard is 50mm, and the 1 7/8" rattles like crazy inside the 622 Trailer 50mm coupling.
    2017 RTL , White

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    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    Hi PMK, in Australia the tow ball standard is 50mm, and the 1 7/8" rattles like crazy inside the 622 Trailer 50mm coupling.

    Hitch ball reducers....... it is a sleeve, like a bushing to make the smaller bolts fit the larger holes.
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    Hi PMK, in Australia the tow ball standard is 50mm, and the 1 7/8" rattles like crazy inside the 622 Trailer 50mm coupling.
    The is a nut on the coupler that you can tighten that will reduce the rattle. That's what I did on my 622 trailer.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    The is a nut on the coupler that you can tighten that will reduce the rattle. That's what I did on my 622 trailer.
    Not sure the adjuster can compensate for 3/32” difference in ball size.

    1 7/8” = 1.875” = 47.625mm

    1.968” = 50mm

    2.00” = 50.8mm

    Seems the truth lies in what hitch size is on the trailer. Original poster says the Australian RT622 calls for a 50mm trailer ball, so probably best to get it swapped out.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    Not sure the adjuster can compensate for 3/32” difference in ball size.

    1 7/8” = 1.875” = 47.625mm

    1.968” = 50mm

    2.00” = 50.8mm

    Seems the truth lies in what hitch size is on the trailer. Original poster says the Australian RT622 calls for a 50mm trailer ball, so probably best to get it swapped out.
    You maybe correct, but it cost nothing to try the adjustment first. I know mine rattled a lot before I adjusted it. Now it doesn't rattle at all.
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    I had to remove the ball to put a Bushtec hitch pin on. had my neighbor put a crescent wrench on the ball so it wouldn't spin and I used a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Or course the itch was on the Spyder. Wasn't to bad but that baby was on there.
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  12. #12
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    Hi all, thanks for the other options, handy to know.

    While I did have the option to adjust it, for $6.00 for a towball I'd prefer to have everything the same spec as everything else rather than having to adjust the coupling each time I used it on another vehicle.

    Had another crack at this time and was able to remove the OEM towball, had no idea the US/Cananda towballs have a bolt that screws into the ball (ours have a stud). Need to drill out the hole from its original size to take the stud of the AU 50mm
    Last edited by askitee; 07-23-2019 at 08:46 PM. Reason: typo
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    had no idea the US/Cananda towballs have a bolt that screws into the ball (ours have a stud). Need to drill out the hole from its original size to take the stud of the AU 50mm
    Both styles are sold here.

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  14. #14
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthAlabamaSpyder View Post
    I had to remove the ball to put a Bushtec hitch pin on. had my neighbor put a crescent wrench on the ball so it wouldn't spin and I used a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Or course the itch was on the Spyder. Wasn't to bad but that baby was on there.

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  15. #15
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Yes, oem Spyder hitch uses the bolt style ball. Pretty obvious, but when going to the stud style ball, ensure the hitch structure is adequate thickness, or add washers to prevent bottoming the nut on the threads before getting full tension on the stud threads.

    Over the years, it has amazed me how many hitch balls were loose on the hitch, but never fell off because the threads had bottomed out. Not Spyders but cars and trucks pulling bigger trailers.

  16. #16
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    you donot need to change out your 1 7/8 ball get down and look under your trailer hitch where the ball fits into. their will be a bolt and nut, usyaky the nut is a 3/4 size this type of hitch can be adjusted tighter or looser.. when we bought our tlr i needed to loosen the nut to get the hitch over the ball.. it was rather funny because the sales person did not even know about the hitch lock adjustment on the under side

  17. #17
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    I am looking at the BRP hitch along with a J&J flag mount. Does the BRP hitch have a 3/4” mounting hole?

  18. #18
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    Its been a while since I posted this but i seem to recall the hole for the towball stud was around 3/4" (19mm).

    For those still suggesting options, it's simpler to fit the correct towball than have to adjust the tow head each time i switch vehicles. Thanks for the information on other options though
    Last edited by askitee; 09-14-2019 at 04:57 AM. Reason: typo
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  19. #19
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by askitee View Post
    Its been a while since I posted this but i seem to recall the hole for the towball stud was aroubd 3/4" (19mm).

    For those still suggesting options, it's simpler to fit the correct towball than have to adjust the tow head each time i switch vehicles. Thanks for the information on other options though
    And if you happen to have a prang or get sprung by the Constabulary here in Aust with your 50mm trailer hitch coupled up to a 1&7/8" ball, it's gonna cost you!! Possibly a LOT!

    Far simpler & potentially a whole lot cheaper to fit the correct sized ball - no matter how tight the adjuster might make it seem to fit, the numbers hafta match!
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  20. #20
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    Nsw has no specification on ball size however it refers to AS4177-2 which recommends that 50mm towballs be used. The 1 7/8" ball is still ok so long as it has a weight rating stamped somewhere that is in synch with the weight being towed
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  21. #21
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    A 1 7/8" ball is not ok if hitch is 50mm. There's a very high chance it will detach when traversing lumps & bumps in the road. I wouldn't like a 500kg trailer (and that's probly illegal too) swinging on the chains behind me.
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  22. #22
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    It was 3/4”. Installed my hitch and flag mount
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