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Short reach handlebar question
I am thinking that I would like to have my handlebars on my F3-T closer to me, as well as higher. So, I was thinking of getting the short reach handlebar and rotating it upward a bit. I thought I read a post here (can't find it) where an owner said that their handlebar was rotating when he pushed on it. I think someone said that there is some sort of locking tab that fits into a hole in the handle bar to prevent rotation. If that is true, then my idea would not work, as there would be only one possible vertical orientation for the handlebars. Is that true, or can the handlebar be rotated and locked down to vary the height of the grips?
Also, I assume that when you swap out the stock bars for the short reach bars that there is a long enough length of the cable and wires hidden in the dash so that the controls can be reattached. Is that true? Is there an estimate of what how much additional cable/wire length is available?
Thanks for your help.
Wayne
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We have the same machine (well the L) Just did this exact swap last night. Perfect timing lol.
There is def vertical adjustment available when you do the swap. There is a locator pin to keep the bars centered, but it allows for a pretty big vertical swing either way. We bought a Corbin seat which sets you back further and so we needed longer bars. Its perfect again now.
Theres enough slack in the cables to reach, no worries. Super easy change over. 8 bolts total and they come with the kit, i guess because they want you to have new Loc-Tite. Same sizes as stock. The only thing i noticed was the cable retaining clips that they send are not the right size. I just used the old ones. And after the swap you only need the two closest to the grips anyway. Theres less slack and it stays nice and tight to the bars with just those two.
Got the kit for $120 shipped Priority mail.
Last edited by Slowpoke387; 07-11-2017 at 01:52 PM.
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I'm also considering having this (short reach handlebars) done on my F3-T. Is this done by relocating the existing handlebars (sort of like adjusting the foot pegs)? Or is a completely different handlebar required? I see that you did it yourself - but I'm (err...) mechanically-challenged. Did you get any pricing on what the whole thing would cost if done at a dealer?
Thanks!
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Very Active Member
i was also considering the handle bar swap ... trying to find a dealer with the U-Fit isn't easy.
Love my Spyders
2016 F3L Steel Black purchased 7/16/2016 Sold 3/11/2023 (22,500 mi)
2014 RTS Circuit Yellow purchased 3/2/2018
2020 RTL Petrol Blue purchased 1/27/2023
Girls on Spyders #3195
No more 2 wheels
2020 RTL , Lamonster floor board riser Petrol Blue
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Active Member
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.
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Originally Posted by sprdmx
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.
Since you also are riding a D-500, I'm thinking that the handling (in general) is something you may miss switching to the regular bars. Could be wrong, but this typically goes for snowmobiles. And IMO there's a very close resemblance to how these things ride/corner/handle. (I'm 5'10 and maybe that makes a difference as to how nicely the drag bars feel to me.) ~ You had better ride one first and take it through corners and on crowned roads before making the change! (And if/when you do I hope you'll give us a detailed comparison!)
Also thinking that with your mods (sway bar in particular) it might be like taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back! Curious about that sway bar. How many miles on bike before you upgraded. And how much difference do you honestly notice? Does it really stiffen the outer wheel in corners? I heard the newer F3-S chassis is much better in the "side roll" department even with the stock sway bar. Mine feels pretty darn good stock..... And I'm convinced it's mostly the low pressure tires that I feel "give" a little at times.
Last edited by TRLBLZR1; 07-11-2017 at 10:44 PM.
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Originally Posted by sprdmx
My Daytona came with drag bars and I'm considering going to short reach. I have never ridden a f3 with stock or short reach bars. Anyone out there with experience with both that can give me their opinion in the difference in feel? I'm 5'7 and I don't necessarily hate the drag bars but when I sat on a regular f3 the bars felt more comfortable. But that's only sitting not riding so not really sure if I should go for it.
We went from the stock ones to the short reach ones. For us it actually helps with leverage in the turns. We also lowered them a hair too. Really helps in the turns. It actually feels like we dont have to push as hard because we are closer to the bars. Hard to explain but i would say this and the new windshield are the best mods we've done so far.
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Originally Posted by al0vely
i was also considering the handle bar swap ... trying to find a dealer with the U-Fit isn't easy.
Plenty of other places have the kit in stock and for less than $150. If youre still looking i can pm you a link.
Last edited by Slowpoke387; 07-12-2017 at 07:05 AM.
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Originally Posted by newbert
I'm also considering having this (short reach handlebars) done on my F3-T. Is this done by relocating the existing handlebars (sort of like adjusting the foot pegs)? Or is a completely different handlebar required? I see that you did it yourself - but I'm (err...) mechanically-challenged. Did you get any pricing on what the whole thing would cost if done at a dealer?
Thanks!
No, they are a completely different set of bars. The bars are $450 for chrome and $150 for black. I wouldn't think it would take more than an hour for your dealer to swap them out.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
I did this swap on my F3 and it was very easy. I wanted more vertical adjustment so I cut the center pin off.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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I torqued my short reach bars to spec on 16 F3L, but notice a bit of loose play, 2-3mm. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks
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Originally Posted by Yebogogo64
I torqued my short reach bars to spec on 16 F3L, but notice a bit of loose play, 2-3mm. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks
I added some risers and had a similar problem. I used an "old-fashioned" fix. I took an aluminum soft drink can and cut strips to fit under the clamps. I placed the strips on a piece of wood and then, with a screwdriver or file (can't remember which), I struck/tapped it with a hammer to make dimples and small sharp extrusions on the strips. This roughed up and texturized the surface of the aluminum strips to make them "grippier". I then used these as shims under the clamps and cranked them down tight. I use one layer of aluminum strip per clamp, but more shims could be used if a greater thickness was needed. The handlebars never moved after this.
And, oh yea, you can use a beer can, after draining it, if you like instead!!
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