Do I simply have unreal expectations or did I buy a P.O.S. Spyder. I purchased my 2012 Spyder RT used in the spring of 2016, it only had 10,000 miles on it so I believed at the time that I was getting a good unit. As this was my first Spyder, I have been riding two wheel bikes for over 50 years, I thought that a Spyder with only 10 K miles was a good purchase. Now, here I am, three years later and struggling with a seemingly unending, and expensive, series of problems for the last two of those years, and the Spyder now only has around 34,000 miles on it so it does not have excessive mileage on it. This unit has given me more trouble in the last two years that my last three bikes combined. (two Goldwings and a Harley Softail) I just returned from a trip to Yellowstone N.P. and the bike gave me more problems again, the P0174 code, and started running poorly. I limped it back to my hotel, loaded it on the trailer, as I had trailered it here due to a complete lack of faith in the machine, and completed the trip in the tow vehicle. Now I am trying to figure out what to do. Going back to a two wheeler is not an option. Do I stay with the Spyder, update to a newer Spyder, or am I forced to go to Goldwing trike. I like the Spyder, especially the two wheels in front versus a rear wheel trike. Is this bad experiance simply that I made an unfortunate choice in the 2012 Spyder, would updating to a newer Spyder solve my problems, or is the Spyder simply a problematic machine that cannot de depended on, like a Goldwing? All I am asking for is a vehicle with decent reliability that I could depend on to get me through a riding season without having multiple breakdowns.
We bought our 2013 RT-S with just over 6000 miles on it. Only had one problem, shorted the magneto, which was covered under the BEST warranty. $1700 if it wasn't covered!
Other than that, we've ridden over 18000 carefree miles and have loved every moment!
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
At the throttle body there are two vacuum lines, their length is critical if you replace. Check them for cracking or loose fit. If you find them OK.....replace them anyway. It is time. If the problem repeats itself after replacing them, you could have a leaking throttle shaft on the throttle body. Not cheap. Search the code on SL and any other terminology you can think of. There's lots of info on the site.
Sorry to hear of your unfortunate circumstances. The occasional "bad" Spyder does come along...as well as with any other brand you may name.
Most of the consensus on SL is that the 2012 RT is the best of the 998 v-twins. There were heat issues with the 2013's. 2014 and up had DESS issues, but pretty good on everything else.
Also some good advice posted above.
Did you have a dealer run the history of your particular machine (per the VIN)? Sometimes, people dump them when they have to many issues. Low miles is good, but low miles because of repair issues is not. Dealers will sell these knowingly to those who don't do checks on them.
I still have a 2011 RT, purchased new in 2012. It has 30K miles on it, and we have had zero problems or issues with it.
Hoping you can get some resolution to the problem. Let us know what happens.
And then there is Anne from Squared Away. She just posted 4 spyders owned and over 270,000 accumulated miles. That makes my 5 and 145,000 look like nothing.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 07-17-2019 at 02:03 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
It’s a machine they all need maintenance & even with the best they (crappy parts & gas)can still brake down, so many systems operating together, its ez for something to get not quite right. Even more so if kept operating near the limits.
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Sorry to hear of your unfortunate circumstances. The occasional "bad" Spyder does come along...as well as with any other brand you may name.
Most of the consensus on SL is that the 2012 RT is the best of the 998 v-twins. There were heat issues with the 2013's. 2014 and up had DESS issues, but pretty good on everything else.
Also some good advice posted above.
Did you have a dealer run the history of your particular machine (per the VIN)? Sometimes, people dump them when they have to many issues. Low miles is good, but low miles because of repair issues is not. Dealers will sell these knowingly to those who don't do checks on them.
I still have a 2011 RT, purchased new in 2012. It has 30K miles on it, and we have had zero problems or issues with it.
Hoping you can get some resolution to the problem. Let us know what happens.
And then there is Anne from Squared Away. She just posted 4 spyders owned and over 270,000 accumulated miles. That makes my 5 and 145,000 look like nothing.
I purchased my Spyder from a dealer that claimed that the original customer bought it from him, his shop maintained it, and then the customer traded it in for a new three cylinder unit. He claimed that it had previously had no problems.
Ken...sorry to hear about the issues.
They should still have been able to show a service/maintenance report.
3 years and 24,000 miles...you've gotten some decent use since purchase.
I assume you've have some significant and not inexpensive other issues beside the one mentioned. I hope you find resolution soon...the thought of being stranded somewhere not so good.
Raprider (Rich)
2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic (Blackbird)
BRP Audio, Heated Grips, Fog Lights, Passenger Backrest, Givi Saddlebags/Top Case
BajaRon Swaybar, TricLed Wide-Vu Mirrors, Lamonster Ram mount and X-grip, Sena 20S Evo Dual
TricLed Sequential Front SpyderFenderz, Dual Color Run/Brake/Turn LEDs, Brake Flasher
Kumho Ecsta AST installed on rear 4/2021
1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - still riding
1987 Honda Shadow 500 (Shady) - sold
1982 Honda Rebel 250 (Little Reb) - sold
We are currently on a 3500+ miles trip with no hesitations.
2014 RT with 42,000 carefree miles.
The Spyder has never broke down and we never have any worries about hitting the open road!
They're lemons in every type of vehicle and having one that doesn't make you feel comfortable in it's dependability is something may consider a change.
Moving up to a 2014 or up with a much better engine and inproved gas mileage might be soething to consider...
mine have been better than good. 34k on 2014, and only 9k on my new carryover 2017.
It has seemed to me and others, that the high winding 998 twin doesn't even compare
to the 1330 triple. With BIG service interval, and superiority in every category. They look kind of the same
on the outside, but that's where the similarity ends. I vote for upgrade.
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
Jeriatric
Those hoses have been the culprit of many a problem. When replacing them go with the silicone hoses and cut them to the same length as the originals. I have a 2012 RS sm5 with 43,000 mile and no issues outside of normal wear items. If you go with the newer...2014 on up you will have much less to deal with in terms of maintenace and they are proving to be long lasting....
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
Do I simply have unreal expectations or did I buy a P.O.S. Spyder. I purchased my 2012 Spyder RT used in the spring of 2016, it only had 10,000 miles on it so I believed at the time that I was getting a good unit. As this was my first Spyder, I have been riding two wheel bikes for over 50 years, I thought that a Spyder with only 10 K miles was a good purchase. Now, here I am, three years later and struggling with a seemingly unending, and expensive, series of problems for the last two of those years, and the Spyder now only has around 34,000 miles on it so it does not have excessive mileage on it. This unit has given me more trouble in the last two years that my last three bikes combined. (two Goldwings and a Harley Softail) I just returned from a trip to Yellowstone N.P. and the bike gave me more problems again, the P0174 code, and started running poorly. I limped it back to my hotel, loaded it on the trailer, as I had trailered it here due to a complete lack of faith in the machine, and completed the trip in the tow vehicle. Now I am trying to figure out what to do. Going back to a two wheeler is not an option. Do I stay with the Spyder, update to a newer Spyder, or am I forced to go to Goldwing trike. I like the Spyder, especially the two wheels in front versus a rear wheel trike. Is this bad experiance simply that I made an unfortunate choice in the 2012 Spyder, would updating to a newer Spyder solve my problems, or is the Spyder simply a problematic machine that cannot de depended on, like a Goldwing? All I am asking for is a vehicle with decent reliability that I could depend on to get me through a riding season without having multiple breakdowns.
Hi Ken
I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your 2012RT. I also have a 2012 that I bought used from a private party when it was 3 years old with only 8500mi. I have found it to be a reliable machine and now 3 years of ownership later I have 49000+ miles on it. I just returned from the Deadwood 3 Wheeler Rally. I did have a issue with the bell crank on the shifter shaft coming loose I was able to get the information to reindex it and get on my way. It sounds to me like you have the vacuum lines on the throttle bodes have gone bad after all these years. They are rubber and subject to breakdown from age and heat. This is a known condition and there are other posts here with pictures. Replace with silicon lines and be sure you cut them to the same length as the original. I bought the right silicon tubes from NAPA for $7 bucks. If you continue to have problems come back here with a good description of your problem. The people here are pretty knowledgeable about fixing Spyders long distance. Also tell what solved your problem.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
We are currently on a 3500+ miles trip with no hesitations.
2014 RT with 42,000 carefree miles.
The Spyder has never broke down and we never have any worries about hitting the open road!
They're lemons in every type of vehicle and having one that doesn't make you feel comfortable in it's dependability is something may consider a change.
Moving up to a 2014 or up with a much better engine and inproved gas mileage might be soething to consider...
+1
Just finished a trip to Glacier National Park of close to 2,500 miles and never gave a thought to reliability. The ran great even at speeds approaching 100 mph while passing triple trailer hay trucks in the middle of nowhere. Two up and fully loaded the stage 1 ECU upgrade is worth every$$
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
Jeriatric
Those hoses have been the culprit of many a problem. When replacing them go with the silicone hoses and cut them to the same length as the originals. I have a 2012 RS sm5 with 43,000 mile and no issues outside of normal wear items. If you go with the newer...2014 on up you will have much less to deal with in terms of maintenace and they are proving to be long lasting....
Silicone. been using it for years. I also use small tie wraps on the ends for good measure.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
There are a few trouble areas on the incredibly fun 998.
Throttle body problems and associated hoses are a weak spot caused mainly by the alcohol in the fuel.
The throttle body problem can be expensive but in more cases than not they can be cleaned by someone who knows what they are doing.
As described in this thread the hoses can be replaced with silicone hoses.
The Spyder is a reliable vehicle with some idiosyncrasies that must be addressed,
I have a 1330 and I still miss the sweet notes of the twin.
There are a few trouble areas on the incredibly fun 998.
Throttle body problems and associated hoses are a weak spot caused mainly by the alcohol in the fuel.
The throttle body problem can be expensive but in more cases than not they can be cleaned by someone who knows what they are doing.
As described in this thread the hoses can be replaced with silicone hoses.
The Spyder is a reliable vehicle with some idiosyncrasies that must be addressed,
I have a 1330 and I still miss the sweet notes of the twin.
1330's are great.
The 998 does it for me. Always has and always will. Been through thick and thin with issues but never gave up on it. Took some fixing but it's now cleared for launch
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
Thanks for all the information. I do indeed intend to take a crack at fixing this issue myself as I have lost all confidence in the dealer that I bought this Spyder from. I was appalled last year to find out that the sole mechanic at this dealer had no prior experiance in repairing motorcycles or Spyders. They even damaged my Spyder's front end when loading it on a trailer, after it died on the road only 1 hour after I picked it up from a previous repair. Indeed this kills me as I have always toured with whatever bike I had and never considerded trailering the Spyder on a trip until recently. Does the P0174 code need to be cleared by a dealer or will it clear if I resolve the problem?
Thanks for all the information. I do indeed intend to take a crack at fixing this issue myself as I have lost all confidence in the dealer that I bought this Spyder from. I was appalled last year to find out that the sole mechanic at this dealer had no prior experiance in repairing motorcycles or Spyders. They even damaged my Spyder's front end when loading it on a trailer, after it died on the road only 1 hour after I picked it up from a previous repair. Indeed this kills me as I have always toured with whatever bike I had and never considerded trailering the Spyder on a trip until recently. Does the P0174 code need to be cleared by a dealer or will it clear if I resolve the problem?
The code clears for your viewing, but will remain in history when connected to BUDS. Your Q as to whether or not you found and repaired the problem is it will stop throwing the P0174 code, or any other lean cylinder codes(orange screen). If, after the vac hoses are replaced it codes again, it would be best to ask here where there's a 'good tech' in your area and let him troubleshoot the problem.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
I beg to differ, the code will be archived but should not cause any operational difficulty.
Don't think I said it would. The codes thrown will be in BUDS history. After he has pulled the trouble code it clears so he will not see it again, unless or until the problem repeats itself or a different code is thrown. At least, that has been my experience........ Though, i'm not getting any younger and could have a memory problem as to how it works? I'm certainly open to being refreshed.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
Don't think I said it would. The codes thrown will be in BUDS history. After he has pulled the trouble code it clears so he will not see it again, unless or until the problem repeats itself or a different code is thrown. At least, that has been my experience........ Though, i'm not getting any younger and could have a memory problem as to how it works? I'm certainly open to be refreshed.
well, the number of angels that can dance on the head of a pin is .....
but once the condition has been remedied the code will automatically be cleared and archived with no other action needed.
well, the number of angels that can dance on the head of a pin is .....
but once the condition has been remedied the code will automatically be cleared and archived with no other action needed.
Not being an angel.......I wouldn't know joking
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
I do wish that All manufacturers would step in when a lemon shows up rather than ignore it. It would GREATLY improve the manufacturers reputation.
We had a Honda HRV and I don't usually complain that much, but the one we had was a P.O.S for sure. The dealership ignored as many problems that they could get by with. I usually keep a car or truck 8-10 years, but the HRV lasted a year. I bought my wife a Toyota Camry....
2021 RTL Marsala Dark Edition 4.13.2021
Lamonster Riser
Spyder Extras Docking station
Zumo XT (my own Plug & Play cable)
WrapMySpyder Carbon fiber partial kit.
Baja Ron ultra performance sway bar and end links
2015 RTS SM6 Intense Red
born on date 3/2015 (mine on 9/12/15)
Sold on 4.13.2021 33k of fun.
Just as a follow up, I replaced the Throttle Body hoses and started using Seafoam on a regular basis and that cleared up the injector issue. It does appear that many of the issues were indeed caused by the new mechanic at the dealer. When I did a oil change I discovered that the mechanic had stripped one of the bolts on the oil filter cover and I had to repair that. I have since started using a different dealer and the issues have greatly dropped, more to what I would expect of a vehicle like this. What I have taken away from this is that you have to vet the mechanic carefully and if he doesn't pass muster go elsewhere. I will never deal with this dealer again as he told me that the new mechanic was indeed qualified but I discovered, after talking to him, that his only previous experiance prior to this, was doing small engine repair. A huge jump from working on these machines.
Thanks for all the information. I do indeed intend to take a crack at fixing this issue myself as I have lost all confidence in the dealer that I bought this Spyder from. I was appalled last year to find out that the sole mechanic at this dealer had no prior experiance in repairing motorcycles or Spyders. They even damaged my Spyder's front end when loading it on a trailer, after it died on the road only 1 hour after I picked it up from a previous repair. Indeed this kills me as I have always toured with whatever bike I had and never considerded trailering the Spyder on a trip until recently. Does the P0174 code need to be cleared by a dealer or will it clear if I resolve the problem?
Seeing your earlier reply about what your dealer "told you" and now what you are finding out for real, it does seem that they passed off a "bill of goods" to you. And looking forward, it seems you have covered some of the issues very well. That 2011 I mentioned earlier was finally traded off in 2019 on a new F3L. It had 45,000 trouble free miles on it.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.