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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Default Over heating 2010 RT

    So, I still have my 2010 RT. Had the DPS replaced. Got home and it handle the best ever. Rode around and then parked it in the garage. As soon as I pushed the parking brake switch I got the orange screen of death letting me know the bike was over heating. I turned it off.

    I replaced the overflow bottle for the cooling system. I saw that there wasn’t any liquid in it. I’d pour coolant into it and it was running across the garage floor. After installing the new overflow bottle, filling it to the proper level and putting the bike back together I took it for a test drive.
    It’s still over heating.

    I need some suggestions as to what else to look into for this problem? I have found no other leaks. Thanks for any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Have you rechecked the level in the coolant reservoir? It may have been far lower on coolant than just an empty reservoirs worth.


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  3. #3
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    Sounds like you may have air in coolant system. Let it idle with cap off to operating temp. Once the thermostat opens it should draw in coolant from jug. Refill as needed with machine running until level stablizes then install cap.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Thanks Goodwrench 55, I’ll try that.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cavman View Post
    So, I still have my 2010 RT. Had the DPS replaced. Got home and it handle the best ever. Rode around and then parked it in the garage. As soon as I pushed the parking brake switch I got the orange screen of death letting me know the bike was over heating. I turned it off.

    I replaced the overflow bottle for the cooling system. I saw that there wasn’t any liquid in it. I’d pour coolant into it and it was running across the garage floor. After installing the new overflow bottle, filling it to the proper level and putting the bike back together I took it for a test drive.
    It’s still over heating.

    I need some suggestions as to what else to look into for this problem? I have found no other leaks. Thanks for any suggestions.
    I would make sure the Radiator cap is ON 100% ….. if the system is not pressurized it won't function as designed …. plus the coolant may be going past the cap flange ….. Mike

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    Took the cap off. Got the bike up to temp and coolant ran out of bottle. Shut off. Replaced cap fully on bottle. Cranked it back up. Temp gauge was going high again. No leaks from the front of radiator and aft. No more leakage forward either.
    I think it’s the thermostat that is defective. I just need to know where it’s located so I can replace it?

  7. #7
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Remove right side panels and you'll find it in this hose assembly.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWaITufwIBs
    Attached Images Attached Images


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    THERMOSTAT
    Thermostat Location The thermostat is a single action type mounted externally on the RH side the engine. It is mounted on the engine side of the cooling fan air deflector duct.

    Thermostat Removal 1. For access, refer to COOLING FAN REMOVAL in this subsection. 2. Drain engine coolant. Refer to ENGINE COOLANT REPLACEMENT in this subsection. 3. Remove hose clamps.
    80
    REQUIRED TOOL
    OETIKER PLIERS (PIN 295 000 070)
    4. Pull out thermostat housing. Catch spilled coolant.
    Thermostat Test To test thermostat, put thermostat in water, then heat the water. Thermostat should begin to open as per following specification.
    THERMOSTAT OPENING TEMPERATURE Starts to open I 75°c (167°Fl
    Thermostat Installation For installation, reverse the removal procedure. However, attention to the following. 1. Thermostat must be installed with its wider section toward the bottom. 2. Install NEW clamps using Oetiker pliers. 3. Refill and bleed cooling system. Refer to MAINTENANCE in this subsection.
    COOLANT TANK CAP
    Coolant Tank Cap Inspection 1. Ensure cap seal is in good condition. 2. Using a pressure cap tester, check cap opening pressure.
    CAP OPENING PRESSURE
    90kPa ± 7 kPa (13 PSI± 1 PSI
    2012 RTL , Brown

  9. #9
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    As to removing the thermostat? Haven't seen that done since the Ford 60's & 85's. Motors from many moon ago, that ran dual water pumps and overheated like crazy. Likely a good thing they didn't have the WEB back then. Lots of unhappy folks. I will say, FORD in '54 with their new Y Block, addressed the heating issue with so much overkill it was hard to warm one up enough to get the heater to work.

    Times passed.


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    So, Cavman...What about the fan? Is it working? You haven't mentioned anything about that. The bike didn't overheat the first time until you slowed down and pulled into the garage.

    And by the way - that video has nothing to do with a 2010 RT, nor the thermostat that is in one.


    Doug

    2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic

    ”Freedom is not a loophole”

    F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Cavman's Avatar
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    The fan works once the bike starts getting too hot.

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