What Brand or Type of Oil Should I Use???

[graysonsway]

Hi Guy's I will be changing my oil at 2000mi on my 2 Ryker 600's. In a previous thread someone used Rotela T6 but I don't remember why and I cannot find it. What oil are you going to use in your oil changes and why. Thanks! Mike

[Chupaca]

So many to choose from as long as they meet the spec's in your owners manual. I use the kits from XPS blended oil but you will get a flood of others using a wide range of oils on the market. Good luck wading through your choices.... I know the vast majority avoid anything dealer/Manufacture recommended but that does not make it bad. XPS is a Castrol product and up there with the best.

[ARtraveler]

Just a heads up. Oil threads and tire threads of late usually get prematurely closed down due to infighting. A touchy subject of which many have very STRONG opinions.

As usual, opinions are welcomed, disagreement is okay. But, lets be respectful to others.

[Mazo EMS2]

Assuming you bought them new, you got a manual. I would take a peek at the manual and see what it says. Otherwise, sift through the opinions of all who will share. In the end, they're OPINIONS based on favorites and personal experiences. Rotella T6 has been known to be a good oil used by many, including myself. But hey, that's my OPINION.

[Jeriatric]

.
Personally I use different oils for different bikes. They all have their likes and dislikes.

As a start, you still should rely on the API and SAE recommendations from the manuals for your specific bike.

Read this over and reach your own conclusion. For information purposes only.

Edit: Once open scroll to the top of the article.

https://bestsyntheticoilguide.com/sy...ew/#tab-con-10

[Tango]

I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUTT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. Tom

[Jeriatric]

I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUTT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. Tom

Rotella T6 is a great product, when used in a bike that calls for its API SAE rating. I use it exclusively in the FJR. That said, it would take out the clutch in my SE5 Spyder in less than a few hundred miles. Using oil that's not API & SAE rated for for your bike, can be expensive.

[Docster]

I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUTT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. Tom

Not correct. Doesn't apply to all dealers. Speaking in general terms like that isn't a good idea. Ask the dealer. My dealer will install whatever oil I bring to him then just charge labor cost.

[Easy Rider]

Go to the motorcycle oil section of your favorite auto parts store.
Pick a "brand name" synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil with a viscosity near to what your book recommends.
Rotella T6 is good too and has the proper certifications for wet clutches too.

When I was doing my own changes.....on a bunch of different bikes.......I used Mobil One 4T bike oil, but it's kind of expensive.

[BajaRon]

Go to the motorcycle oil section of your favorite auto parts store.
Pick a "brand name" synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil with a viscosity near to what your book recommends.
Rotella T6 is good too and has the proper certifications for wet clutches too.

When I was doing my own changes.....on a bunch of different bikes.......I used Mobil One 4T bike oil, but it's kind of expensive.

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

[Jeriatric]

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Ah man.........there ya go. Making things simple again. jk

[cueman]

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Hey BajaRon, help me out brother, did you come up with an automotive oil to use in our Rykers? I’ve been a good old man and have waited patiently! cueman

[BajaRon]

Hey BajaRon, help me out brother, did you come up with an automotive oil to use in our Rykers? I’ve been a good old man and have waited patiently! cueman

I am not recommending anything yet because I have not personally run it or tested it. But frankly, I cannot see where it's going to be a big deal to run engine oil in an engine. I like Amsoil because it does what it says it does and I've yet to see an oil test out, apples to apples, better than Amsoil. So I've decided to go with Amsoil's XL, 10w-40 which I feel is a better viscosity fit for the Spyder/Ryker anyway. Amsoil also has an even higher quality lubricant, 0w-40, which is tempting. I may try that and see how it fares against the 10w-40 on the next go-around. I am certain that either one will far exceed any requirements that BRP has.

It will run about $8.75 per quart. Who knows! I might even be able to get better fuel mileage with it!

I know some feel Amsoil is overkill for the Spyder/Ryker. And I can't necessarily argue with that. It's all a matter of perspective. I plan to switch out to all Amsoil lubricants eventually.

XLO.jpg

Here is some of the description for the XL oil.

AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil is the choice for those who want to do something extra for their vehicle. Its boosted formulation delivers extra cleaning power, outstanding wear control, excellent high- and low-temperature protection and exceptional fuel economy. XL is engineered for advanced automotive technology, including turbos and direct injection. It is packed with extra engine protection, allowing you to go up to12,000-miles or one year, whichever comes first, between oil changes. XL Synthetic Motor Oil maintains its fluidity (viscosity) under the most extreme conditions. Some oils break down and significantly increase in viscosity after extended periods of high-temperature operation. These changes can cause excessive oil consumption, engine deposits, accelerated wear and difficult cold-starts. The GM Oxidation and Deposit (GMOD) Test consists of a 5.7L V8 engine running at 293ºF (100º hotter than normal) for 100 hours. These severe operating conditions test an oils ability to control viscosity increase, deposits and oil consumption. The testing revealed that AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil provides 64 percent more protection against oil breakdown than required by the GM dexos1® Gen 2 specification, ensuring protection in extreme temperatures.

[Easy Rider]

when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.

[BajaRon]

Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.

Yes... You DO NOT want to apply any of this information to a Spyder with both wet clutch and transmission lubrication needs. Using an automotive, engine only oil in a Spyder would be very bad indeed!

I have not checked all of the lubricants that BRP offers. But I'm thinking they are recommending what they have (for the Ryker anyway) rather than what might be best. i am not saying that the BRP lubricants recommended for the Ryker are not adequate. I'm just always looking for a better mouse trap! For this, I will ask forgiveness.

[Cruzr Joe]

My practice has been to use the Manufactures oil while still under warranty.

Cruzr Joe

[Sarge707]

I,m using Valvoline 5w40 Synthetic MST used in high end sports cars and diesels. Runs great in my 900 Jetski?
About 6.75 per quart at Walmart

[KC61]

But the Ryker doesn't have a clutch nor is it wet so why do we care about wet clutch applications on the Ryker forum?

[BajaRon]

But the Ryker doesn't have a clutch nor is it wet so why do we care about wet clutch applications on the Ryker forum?

The reason is that BRP recommends a wet clutch rated oil for the Ryker. But I think this is more a case of sell what you have than recommend what might be best. Just speculation. But it is a valid question. What other non-wet clutch, integrated transmission vehicle recommends a wet clutch lubricant? I do not know of any. There is no advantage to using a wet clutch oil in a non-wet clutch application. Actually, compromises are made in the lubricant properties to achieve wet clutch comparability. So why not ditch the disadvantages if you don't need the compromise?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The reason is that BRP recommends a wet clutch rated oil for the Ryker. But I think this is more a case of sell what you have than recommend what might be best. Just speculation. But it is a valid question. What other non-wet clutch, integrated transmission vehicle recommends a wet clutch lubricant? I do not know of any. There is no advantage to using a wet clutch oil in a non-wet clutch application. Actually, compromises are made in the lubricant properties to achieve wet clutch comparability. So why not ditch the disadvantages if you don't need the compromise?

….. A new oil is just More a dealer has to stock ….. and they might have to drop the price - ain't gonna happen ... Mike

[EdMat]

Do you ever long for the days when you just grabbed a can of green or red top Quaker State and dumped it in?

[Jeriatric]

Do you ever long for the days when you just grabbed a can of green or red top Quaker State and dumped it in?

No, but I miss the days of .10c island oil. I you remember then?

[cueman]

No, but I miss .10c island oil. I you remember when?

In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. cueman

[Jeriatric]

In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. cueman

Re-refined - they called it.

My how times have changed.

[Peter Aawen]

No, but I miss .10c island oil. I you remember when?

In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. cueman

Yup, one of my very first jobs - filling those glass bottles with oil, keeping the island rack topped up & clean, and offering to check the oil & water & washing the windscreen on every customer's car! I musta done a good job at all that, cos I skipped the usual 'service station career & promotion path', jumping right over sweeping the workshop floor & going straight to helping our 'qualified mechanic' work on cars & learning all I could about spanner spinning on the job!