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  1. #1
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    Default 2015 RS-S - handlebar bolts

    Well, now that I got my RS-S I am looking into a gps mount and I think I have found the perfect solution for me... and order it.
    Is from ebay and is called "Spirit Beast" (I know, freaking cheesy... but the way it looks and for the price I paid for, I can deal with it )

    One thing that I am unsure of is the bolts that are coming with - if is the actual size I would need for my Spyder.
    In case they are not (and I have a strong feeling might not)... can anyone tell me what is the bolt size for the Spyder's handlebars? And where could I get some longer ones if I need to?

    Thanks!

    A picture of the set (maybe someone over here is using it already):
    s-l1600.jpg

  2. #2
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    They are metric M10 cap screws but the length you need will depend on the extra length your spacers for the mount may need. Wait and see what arrives with the mount. From your picture, you may get lucky.

    I've used stainless steel ones on my RT. The originals were in seriously tight, you may need a long bar on your hex socket or a piece if tube on your hex key to wind them out. Mind and not slip and scratch your bars.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderlass View Post
    They are metric M10 cap screws but the length you need will depend on the extra length your spacers for the mount may need. Wait and see what arrives with the mount. From your picture, you may get lucky.

    I've used stainless steel ones on my RT. The originals were in seriously tight, you may need a long bar on your hex socket or a piece if tube on your hex key to wind them out. Mind and not slip and scratch your bars.
    Thank you!
    I was going to wait for the parts first before ordering anything... wanted to make sure I will get the right length .

  4. #4
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    Mate I’ll be very interested to know how this goes.
    2014 RSS , 4 eyes conversion for headlights, 12v socket, 2x USB Ports, CTEK Charging Port. Black and White

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fattymick View Post
    Mate I’ll be very interested to know how this goes.
    Once I get it mounted, I will come back with some pics.
    Might take a week or two since it comes from over the seas... and its kind of far from me.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderlass View Post
    I've used stainless steel ones on my RT. The originals were in seriously tight, you may need a long bar on your hex socket or a piece if tube on your hex key to wind them out. Mind and not slip and scratch your bars.
    I did something like that for my RT and my F3T. Those bolts have a lot of locktite on them. You will possibly have to go back part of a turn, and then tighten about 1/2 of that in order to work them loose with out harming the internal threads. Just a little warning to be careful.
    2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacklightning View Post
    I did something like that for my RT and my F3T. Those bolts have a lot of locktite on them. You will possibly have to go back part of a turn, and then tighten about 1/2 of that in order to work them loose with out harming the internal threads. Just a little warning to be careful.
    Thanks for the advise - is a good call!
    I have a breaker bar and I can put a hex socket on it and I think I should be able to break it loose fairly easy... unless the thing is glued in place .
    The only worry I have (every time I work with a hex bolt) is not to strip the sucker if is too tight.

  8. #8
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    Update on this...
    Package came today and everything looks quite well built without any flaws.

    But bummer...
    It comes with M8 bolts and the bottom bracket only takes M8 bolts so is not like I could change the bolts only...

    Eh well, I'll use it for something else.

  9. #9
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    Btw... the bolts are M10 x 1.5 OR M10 x 1.25!?

    I think I have an idea how to make it work, but I need to order some bolts and some standoff spacers.

  10. #10
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    The standard series of metric threads in considered the course series and this is what is generally used. Finer pitches are used for special circumstances.

    M6 pitch is 1mm. M8 is pitch 1.25mm. M10 is pitch 1.5mm and M12 is pitch 1.75mm.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderlass View Post
    The standard series of metric threads in considered the course series and this is what is generally used. Finer pitches are used for special circumstances.

    M6 pitch is 1mm. M8 is pitch 1.25mm. M10 is pitch 1.5mm and M12 is pitch 1.75mm.
    The M10 can be found in either pitch 1.25 or pitch 1.5 to buy online. I assume is 1.5, but I have been wrong before. Better to measure before ordering anything.
    I guess I'll remove one of the bolts this weekend and measure it if no one knows for sure the actual pitch.

    Thanks!

  12. #12
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    They are 1.5 pitch.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderlass View Post
    They are 1.5 pitch.
    Oh, cool - thank you!
    Sorry, it wasn't obvious to me from your first reply.

  14. #14
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    If anyone is interested in the end result...

    Finally got all the parts and managed to install this thing... looks good and personally I am happy with the end result.
    You can either bolt or strap things on to it .

    Things I got extra:
    - 2 - M10 x 80mm bolts (I might get 2 more for the front, shorter, so this way all bolts look the same)
    - 2 - M10 standoff spacers (30mm tall - 16mm diameter)

    Small modification on the plate that came with the original kit - to make the M10 bolts fit through.

    Final look:

    IMG_20190819_185728.jpg

    IMG_20190819_185815.jpg

    IMG_20190819_185822.jpg

  15. #15
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    Good job.

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