Looking at a 2015 F3-S SE6 -- what should I ask the seller?
I am going to look at a 2015 F3-S SE6 with 2.5K miles. I've been riding motorcycles for 51 years, but I don't know much about the Can-Am's. I've started to look at them seriously the last few months and this one caught my eye.
Are they easy to work on? I'm pretty good with basic maintenance, like oil/filter changes, on many different kinds of bikes, American, Japanese, German, and Italian. Will I be able to do the basic maintenance things myself?
What sort of things should I ask the seller?
I know, I need to get a service manual, or at least an owner's manual, to answer most of my questions.
Not much going on with those models that I can think of. I might ask him if he has checked the front sprocket for the dreaded red dust. If not, it takes about a couple of minutes to check that by removing the cover. Not much else that can be messed up with such low milage. One good plus would be to check to see if he has any extra warranty left on the bike. With it being a 2015, it is probably out of warranty unless he purchased or was given an extended one. Good luck shopping.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
I might ask him if he has checked the front sprocket for the dreaded red dust. If not, it takes about a couple of minutes to check that by removing the cover.
The final drive is belt drive, are you referring to the front final drive belt sprocket? Or are you referring to the CVT belt front sprocket? (Pardon me if my terminology is incorrect -- this is all new to me.)
there was a recall for a mounting bracket or a weld under the seat - I don't remember exactly what it was. Make sure the recall work is done on the byke.
The final drive is belt drive, are you referring to the front final drive belt sprocket? Or are you referring to the CVT belt front sprocket? (Pardon me if my terminology is incorrect -- this is all new to me.)
There's only one front sprocket on F3
There's no CVT on F3
I am not very mechanically inclined, but I have changed the oil on my '15 F3-S, put on a windshield, replaced all lights with LED lights and replaced a battery. The F3's are easier to work on than other models due to less tupperware (panels). If you have done a lot of wrenching on Japanese bikes you should have no trouble with the Spyder. Check with any dealer with the VIN # to see if there are any recalls or technical service bulletins. The dealer should also be able to tell you if there is an extended warranty. If you do buy it I think you will really like it. I just turned over 40,000 miles on mine.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
I am not very mechanically inclined, but I have changed the oil on my '15 F3-S, put on a windshield, replaced all lights with LED lights and replaced a battery. The F3's are easier to work on than other models due to less tupperware (panels). If you have done a lot of wrenching on Japanese bikes you should have no trouble with the Spyder. Check with any dealer with the VIN # to see if there are any recalls or technical service bulletins. The dealer should also be able to tell you if there is an extended warranty. If you do buy it I think you will really like it. I just turned over 40,000 miles on mine.
Are the foot pegs quickly adjustable? It seems as they aren't. Looks like moving the foot pegs, especially the right peg, requires different brake linkage? Is this true?
You are correct about the brake linkage. From the factory they are set at position #3 and the available positions is #1- #5 with position #5 giving you the most leg stretch. The battery is located in the front trunk and yes Spyder owners refer to it the as Frunk. Once the frunk is opened, take out the liner and the surface closest to the engine there is a panel that is bolted or screwed in place. The battery is behind that panel. It is a good idea to hook up a battery tender to this bikes as they do have a tendency to run the battery down if not ridden often. Most people put the pigtail to come out on the left side of the bike close to the left front tire.
You are correct about the brake linkage. From the factory they are set at position #3 and the available positions is #1- #5 with position #5 giving you the most leg stretch. The battery is located in the front trunk and yes Spyder owners refer to it the as Frunk. Once the frunk is opened, take out the liner and the surface closest to the engine there is a panel that is bolted or screwed in place. The battery is behind that panel. It is a good idea to hook up a battery tender to this bikes as they do have a tendency to run the battery down if not ridden often. Most people put the pigtail to come out on the left side of the bike close to the left front tire.
The handlebars are not adjustable. BRP has about 4 bars to choose from. Unfortunately they won’t let you swap out a handlebar. You will have to buy it. And if the pegs are moved you will also have to buy the correct brake linkage.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
The handlebars are not adjustable. BRP has about 4 bars to choose from. Unfortunately they won’t let you swap out a handlebar. You will have to buy it. And if the pegs are moved you will also have to buy the correct brake linkage.
My 2015 sm6 has 16,500 miles and run a similar amount each year. I would be cautious of a 2015 with that low mileage. Have mice eaten up half the electrical wires. Something to think about and ask where it was stored. I would change the oil and filter right away and Make sure the seat frame has been taken care of.
I just installed the #4 brake linkage for my (new to me) 2015 F3-S. Easy to do and cost $30. Fortunately, I didn't have to change out the handlebars. One item you might think about for your toolkit is Blue Locktite for the various bolts.
I'm disabled (left leg amputed at hip) and I do all the maintenance on mine - so that shows how easy it is to maintain.
I've just done the rear tyre and rear brake pads - removing the rear wheel was the most difficult thing I've done. Also there was no grease on the shaft at all - rusted up and dry as a bone. Mine was five years old (from build date) with original rear tyre so if that one has it's worth removing the shaft to check if it's greased.
I would also replace the rear tyre anyway if it's five years old even if it's not worn out. The standard tyre is rubbish - go for a car tyre. Yokohama S-Drive in 205/55/15 is perfect if you want performance rather than mega miles. (don't be put off by size difference - it's near the same as makes no difference).
Another recommendation for tools if you don't have them is a set of torx and hex driver sockets. Almost everything on the bike is done up with a hex or torx headed bolt. I bought a 3/8 set each of torx and hex when I got the bike and they've been the best tools I've bought for it.
| 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |
Sorry. I'll stop there with asking dumb questions.
The only dumb question is the one that you will be kicking yourself about, if you don't ask. It is always a good idea to ask as many questions and get as much knowledge as possible before making the purchase. Be patient, your deal will come through.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
Looking at a 2015 F3-S SE6 -- what should I ask the seller?
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by blacklightning
2020 F3 Ltd
