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Member
check for leaks in the airbag system
Went to Colorado in early June. I know noticed on the way back from Colorado that didn't hear the air compressor and I noticed my ride felt different. I can lose 50lb of air in 24 hours. Is there an easy way to check and see where the leak is? I know that the compressor is done from trying to keep up with the leak. I watched the You Tube video on how to get to the compressor. I am hoping that I don't have to do that much tear down to find the leak. Right now I would rather fix the leak and air up the bag manually for right now.
Rebob
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Rebob,
Easy job. Remove right mirror, right wind deflector, right side panels. From the shrader valve, follow the line to the check valve. Remove it, and connect the line from the bag to the line to the shrader valve. Air up bag, measure the distance from rear fender to the ground. 16-17”. Button it up, check the distance a day later. If it remains the same, the bag is ok. The base RT does not have a compressor. You can just leave it, and use a ruler to check it. We did one last week. Much cheaper to do this. Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Often, it seems the leak is internal. The check valve builds up crud inside it over time and allows the air to back flow into the air compressor.
The previously suggested method will isolate the air ride system from the compressor and check valve.
On ours, after some troubleshooting, it was deemed a bad check valve. I replaced our oem brass check valve with a stainless steel check valve. Hopefully there will be no issues with crud and corrosion.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
Rebob,
Easy job. Remove right mirror, right wind deflector, right side panels. From the shrader valve, follow the line to the check valve. Remove it, and connect the line from the bag to the line to the shrader valve. Air up bag, measure the distance from rear fender to the ground. 16-17”. Button it up, check the distance a day later. If it remains the same, the bag is ok. The base RT does not have a compressor. You can just leave it, and use a ruler to check it. We did one last week. Much cheaper to do this. Joe
Photos? Thanks
2010 RTSM5
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Member
What was your compressor doing with the old valve?
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Member
At the same time I noticed the compressor not working I noticed when I adjust the rear shock I noticed that sometimes it would show Manual on the screen. Is there a connection? If not why am I getting the manual for the shock. Or, am I missing something?
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Very Active Member
If you're screen displayed manual, it is very likely your compressor is dead. In my experiance the probable cause of leaky air sytems on RTS and LTD is the check valve. I have had to replace, 2 ACS switches, 1 compressor, all air lines, my choice, and connectors and 1 check valve. If you have a bad check valve it will over work your compressor, leading to failure. I now have gone from Shrader valve direct to air bag. No more hassles.
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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Very Active Member
+1 for bypassing the compressor with a line direct from the underseat schrader valve to the airbag.
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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Member
I took off the right side panels except I could not get the mirror off so that panel stayed on. I see where the line from the schrader valve goes to a component right below it and then the line goes from that component to the airbag. Do I just disconnect the lines from that component and hook the line from the airbag straight to the schrader valve? There is a lot of stuff in there and not enough room to put hands and tools.
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Originally Posted by PMK
Often, it seems the leak is internal. The check valve builds up crud inside it over time and allows the air to back flow into the air compressor.
The previously suggested method will isolate the air ride system from the compressor and check valve.
On ours, after some troubleshooting, it was deemed a bad check valve. I replaced our oem brass check valve with a stainless steel check valve. Hopefully there will be no issues with crud and corrosion.
what was the part number of the ss check valve and where did you purchase it?
Jay
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What tpye of coupling did you use to connect the bag hose to the schrader hose?
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Very Active Member
I cut a new line from left over line that I used last year. To replace the line, just push in where the line goes into the brass fittings. I removed the rear cargo assembly to give me easier access.
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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I was just at Lamonster garage this past weekend talking to Lamont about this on mine. The common problem is rocks get thrown up underneath and puncture the bag. Lamont says they believe they have a fix for it hopefully next month. But until then, replacing the bag at 220.00 for the part not including labor is the solution. Only sure fire way of checking for airleak is soap and water
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Very Active Member
Bags can get can get holes in them. My air bag was fine, not so the compressor.
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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