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  1. #1
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    Default Manually downshifting SE6 ?

    How many of you manually downshift all the time ? I had a manual shift 5 speed 2011 RT, and I got used to downshifting when I was coming to a stop, and now do it all the time on SE6. It isn’t hard on anything to do that is it, or wear anything out ? Seems to me like it kinda saves on brakes a little bit. Just wondering if I’m wearing something out trying to save something else. Thanks

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    If I'm coming to a full stop, I'll let the system auto-downshift. I'f I'm merely slowing down temporarily, I'll manually downshift.

  3. #3
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) Spyder_Cowgirl's Avatar
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    I always manually downshift (SE5 or SE6) … this keeps the Spyder in the "power band" range in case I have to react to a negative situation. Won't need to downshift as part of the reaction, I have already done so.

    All the best …. Ann
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    Very Active Member Revalden's Avatar
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    I let it downshift by itself around town most of the time but if we're doing twisties I'll downshift and back-off the throttle before the turn and let the 12:1 compression ratio slow me and have power to pull out of the turn.
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    Member allcd88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyder_Cowgirl View Post
    I always manually downshift (SE5 or SE6) … this keeps the Spyder in the "power band" range in case I have to react to a negative situation. Won't need to downshift as part of the reaction, I have already done so.

    All the best …. Ann

    You saved me all the typing. This is my answer as well. Always be prepared.

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyder_Cowgirl View Post
    I always manually downshift (SE5 or SE6) … this keeps the Spyder in the "power band" range in case I have to react to a negative situation. Won't need to downshift as part of the reaction, I have already done so.

    All the best …. Ann
    Do the same for the same reasons

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    Devaluation by age is the major expense with any vehicle.
    If your worried about wearing out the transmission before the brakes or vice versa your barking up the wrong tree.
    Ride the hell out of it and worry less.
    If the transmission goes out to lunch it is a piece of crap and you can then come back and tell us all and we'll stop buying them.
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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    On ours, it is mixed. Sometimes I let the machines computer do it, other times, I grab the gear.

    FWIW, the item that will fail is the left grip shifter. Ours and others have had to have the shifter replaced.

    The gearbox, clutch, and drivetrain can handle it without concern, far less stress than high power upshifts.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spyder_Cowgirl View Post
    I always manually downshift (SE5 or SE6) … this keeps the Spyder in the "power band" range in case I have to react to a negative situation. Won't need to downshift as part of the reaction, I have already done so.

    All the best …. Ann
    Well said.

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    Very Active Member bcer960's Avatar
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    The nanny (computer) on the bike won't let you downshift if it doesn't deem it safe. Same as up-shifting, if the RPM's are too low, it won't shift.

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    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Downshift all the time.
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    Thanx for all the replies. It just kind a seems the normal thing to do, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to screw something up.

  13. #13
    Active Member Spyder Insyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperG View Post
    If I'm coming to a full stop, I'll let the system auto-downshift. I'f I'm merely slowing down temporarily, I'll manually downshift.
    Same here.

  14. #14
    Member doncanfix2's Avatar
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    Newbie (Spyder) here. I've had my 'ol Triumph 35+ years and always downshift, so I'm very used to the idea. I've now had my '18 RT SE6 since July and cannot seem to get it to downshift without what I think is an extraordinary amount of force on the paddle shifter. In the last week or so as the weather has tuned cold, it is reluctant to go into reverse. To describe the force I apply, I feels as though I could break the shifter. Question is, does it take a lot more force than upshifting to downshift? I'm taking into consideration the RPM vs. road speed and what the nanny does to limit "mistakes". Other thought is, are the paddle shifters problematic and perhaps the problem is there?
    2018 RT Limited , OXFORD BLUE METALLIC Dark Edition

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    The paddle shift switch is just an electric switch. RPM and road speed have no effect on it. If it is hard to move, you need to get the switch fixed.
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    RE: Downshifting the SE. In most cases, I let the do the downshift when it determines the rpm's are ready for the next lower gear. One exception, if I need power now, I will downshift it manually.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 11-24-2019 at 04:39 PM.

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doncanfix2 View Post
    Newbie (Spyder) here. I've had my 'ol Triumph 35+ years and always downshift, so I'm very used to the idea. I've now had my '18 RT SE6 since July and cannot seem to get it to downshift without what I think is an extraordinary amount of force on the paddle shifter. In the last week or so as the weather has tuned cold, it is reluctant to go into reverse. To describe the force I apply, I feels as though I could break the shifter. Question is, does it take a lot more force than upshifting to downshift? I'm taking into consideration the RPM vs. road speed and what the nanny does to limit "mistakes". Other thought is, are the paddle shifters problematic and perhaps the problem is there?
    This is a known problem with some of 2018 models. Take it back to your dealer and have the left handlebar controls replaced under warranty.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  18. #18
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doncanfix2 View Post
    Newbie (Spyder) here. I've had my 'ol Triumph 35+ years and always downshift, so I'm very used to the idea. I've now had my '18 RT SE6 since July and cannot seem to get it to downshift without what I think is an extraordinary amount of force on the paddle shifter. In the last week or so as the weather has tuned cold, it is reluctant to go into reverse. To describe the force I apply, I feels as though I could break the shifter. Question is, does it take a lot more force than upshifting to downshift? I'm taking into consideration the RPM vs. road speed and what the nanny does to limit "mistakes". Other thought is, are the paddle shifters problematic and perhaps the problem is there?
    Light touch is all it should take. If yours is different, take it back for the dealer to fix it. This is a known problem on some 2018s.

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    Should shift down instantly when pressing the pedal up or down to shift

    No hard pressure is needed

  20. #20
    Member doncanfix2's Avatar
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    Appreciate all the fellow ryder comments. I always knew something was up, when the reverse problem showed up I was convinced. She's off to the dealer today in fact!
    2018 RT Limited , OXFORD BLUE METALLIC Dark Edition

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    I downshift manually coming to traffic lights and intersections in general. I like to be in a position to change gears if I need to in a hurry - The last episode :
    I had a Tilt Tray truck coming up behind me at a downhill set of lights above the speed limit. Looking at the driver he was on his phone and I could see he hadn't seen me nor the red light. No one was coming thru the intersection so I accelerated off - he stopped where I was originally plus a few metres.

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    Last edited by askitee; 12-06-2019 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added speedo
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  22. #22
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    I have had my 2017 F3L for 2-1/2 years now (15,000 miles), and have consistently manually down-shifted (engine-braked) since the very beginning. An old habit left over from standard-shift sports car driving. My instincts (sound and feel) have always 'urged' me to manually down shift somewhat in advance of what the Spyder's computer brain tells it to do. In that regard, I agree with Spyder_Cowgirl and others here - I want (to feel) the 'live' engine underneath me, always well within the power band.

    Whether we manually down shift early, or wait and let the computer do it automatically, doesn't add anything to the number of actual gear changes - both procedures go up and down through the same 6 speeds; there are no short-cuts, no extra shifts whether manually or automatically done. So, I don't believe or see how any additional wear results. I don't abuse the RPM's, but expect the Nanny would protect if I ever did badly misjudge. I have, once or twice, absentmindedly down-shifted when I meant to up-shift; my F3L snarled and growled at me momentarily, but took it all in stride, without any scolding from Nan.

    As far as the amount of force necessary to paddle shift, my F3L has always had a very 'soft', almost 'hair-trigger' feel. I barely have to touch the paddle to go up or down. I would think anything else (excessive force) is highly questionable and defective.

    My greatest concern in manually down-shifting so frequently, was more that I was in danger of not sufficiently warning following traffic of my reductions in speed, since I usually do this without touching the brakes. My brake light system was not coming on or lighting up to alert those behind. For that reason, one of the first farkles to my Spyder was a deceleration light which functions independently of the brake light system. There are several choices on the market; I chose to go with one made by AdMore. It can be adjusted to 'light up' in a number of variable patterns. A little extra 'peace of mind' for the committed down-shifter.
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  23. #23
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    I downshift all the time, with a careful eye behind because like others have said no brake lights. As long as no one is following closely you can downshift and sometimes the light will change and you won't have to apply brakes at all. 24,000mi 2015 RT LTD.

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