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Considering a Can Am Spyder Rt or Rt-S
Hi guys:
I've been reading the forum and looking a buying a used Can Am Spyder. I have two that I've been looking at. A 2008 RT with manual shock adjustment and a 2012 RT-S with the dash shock control. Both have right at 8000 miles. Can anyone explain any pros or cons of either? I know that both are 2 cyl. What year did they start making the 3 cyl? I'm wanting to stick to the 10-12k range, so I may only be able to afford a 2cyl. Any significant advantages of a 3 cyl over the 2 cyl. Just looking for a little guidance. Having been a goldwing rider for many years, I gotta say I'm a little gun-shy after reading all the posts about mechanical issues with the spyders. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
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Very Active Member
Question moved from the welcome area.
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Very Active Member
Hi Tony,
Re: I've been looking at. A 2008 RT
There was no RT in 2008, only the GS Model. You might want to talk to that seller again.
Jerry Baumchen
'I'll never forget what's her name.'
'Things are more like they are now than they ever have been before.' Dwight Eisenhower
2008 GS SE-5
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Very Active Member
Rt's didn't appear until 2010 , the 2012 RT is considered by some to be the best twin cylinder RT and WELCOME.
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Very Active Member
The three cylinder engines came out in 2014. Many say a much nicer ride than the two cylinder. Less maintenance required, quieter ride, and about 10 mpg more than the two. The GS likes to be driven at 5500 rpms as well as the 2012 RT. The three cylinders like 3500 rpms.
No RT's in 2008...just the GS version. I would test drive both models to see which you like better.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Active Member
HI and welcome...I'd be really really careful about buying one that old with so few miles...there must have been a reason for not riding it...I bought a 2010 RS from a dealer who was NOT a BRP dealer...it had about 3800 miles on it..found out later that they bought them in Texas (I'm in Indiana) and trucked them in..I had nothing but problems with the unit...the last bill, for a dash cluster, was $1200....I paid the bill and traded it in for a new leftover 2018 RT Ltd...at one time the '10 was in two different dealers (not the one I bought it from) for 3 months until they found a bad control switch on the left handlebar...the thing kept going in 'limp home' mode...that was like $600....so just be careful...
2 Wheels (ST1100, Marauder, Honda Shadow, Honda Rebel) 3 wheels (2018 Spyder RT Ltd)
Foam grip covers
Tri-Axis Handlebars.....
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Very Active Member
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When BRP switched to they 1330 Triple: they took the time to address many of the complaints that riders had about the first version of the RT.
It has much more torque
It operates at much lower rpm levels
The fuel economy was significantly improved.
It has a much better charging system (1200 watt alternator, versus a 650 watt magneto)
The cooling system upgrades no longer have the bike blowing hot oir onto a rider's right leg
No more valve adjustments
The evaporative canister was moved to a less problematic location
the Addition of a sixth gear
The engagement clutch was changed to hydraulic operation: versus the old centrifugally-operated unit.
(This prevents burned clutch plates)
So while the 998 bikes were really great...
The 1330s set a new standard!
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Active Member
Plenty of folks on here with the v-twin with no issues, so while the diffs that Bob pointed out are valid, you have to consider your own circumstances, riding style (GS/RS/ST being very different riding positions from RT and F3) and wallet size included.
A quick scan of the For Sale forum shows a few recent options:
2012 RS for $12,000
2014 ST-L for $14,000
2015 RT-L for $17,000
Happy hunting!
You may find others on CycleTrader
Raprider (Rich)
2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic ( Blackbird)
BRP Audio, Heated Grips, Fog Lights, Passenger Backrest, Givi Saddlebags/Top Case
BajaRon Swaybar, TricLed Wide-Vu Mirrors, Lamonster Ram mount and X-grip, Sena 20S Evo Dual
TricLed Sequential Front SpyderFenderz, Dual Color Run/Brake/Turn LEDs, Brake Flasher
Kumho Ecsta AST installed on rear 4/2021
1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - still riding
1987 Honda Shadow 500 (Shady) - sold
1982 Honda Rebel 250 (Little Reb) - sold
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Active Member
Lots of people love the 998. I test rode a 2010 RT, and didn't care for it. Never experienced a 4-stroke with that kind of power band. That thing HATED being below 5k rpms, and in my opinion, way too rev happy for a touring rig. The 1330 on the other hand is fantastic. After the test ride on the '10, I bought the '14 without a ride, and so far I'm glad I did. Way more low/mid range which is where I spend all my time. Amazing smooth for a triple cylinder, and I like the sound. The only thing I wish they'd done would have been shaft drive, but the belt is smooth and quiet so far.
As for your question, the RT is all manual on the air ride adjustment - meaning you put in the air with a valve under the seat and adjust it to your liking. The RT-S has an automatic system for it. The dash control only controls the firmness of the ride.
2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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