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  1. #1
    Active Member Sarge's Avatar
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    Default Oil over filled a bit ... I think

    I've been checking my oil after a ride and within the specified 2-minutes after engine shut down. It's hard to tell (for me), but I think it is slightly over the full mark. I know, I know ... should never over fill it, but that's the way I got it and I've put under 1k on it since I picked it up and the dealer performed the 3k first service on it the day before I picked it up. (It's a used 2015 RTL with 2,500 Miles) Being a new owner and not being completely familiar with these animals (insects?!?) I figured the dealer knew what they were doing. I figure I can loosen the drain plug to let some out but was not sure about this procedure since I know there are O-rings involved and I don't want to mess anything up. ELSE, I can use a siphon and extract some oil from the dipstick port. Comments?!?

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  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    I've been checking my oil after a ride and within the specified 2-minutes after engine shut down. It's hard to tell (for me), but I think it is slightly over the full mark. I know, I know ... should never over fill it, but that's the way I got it and I've put under 1k on it since I picked it up and the dealer performed the 3k first service on it the day before I picked it up. (It's a used 2015 RTL with 2,500 Miles) Being a new owner and not being completely familiar with these animals (insects?!?) I figured the dealer knew what they were doing. I figure I can loosen the drain plug to let some out but was not sure about this procedure since I know there are O-rings involved and I don't want to mess anything up. ELSE, I can use a siphon and extract some oil from the dipstick port. Comments?!?

    If it's way over I would drain the overage, if you take out too much you can put it back ….. the 1330 engine seems to a very well machined engine, in 4 years I have never added oil between oil changes …. in fact I only check it once a month now ………. Mike

  3. #3
    Very Active Member CopperSpyder's Avatar
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    If you think you need to take some out, take it out via the dip stick hole. about 4oz.
    Last edited by CopperSpyder; 06-21-2019 at 05:06 PM.
    2012 RTL , Brown

  4. #4
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    If it's just a tad over, I wouldn't worry about it. The fill mark on the dip stick isn't an extremely critical or close tolerance measurement. If it's way over, then I would suck it out the fill hole. Draining out a drain plug is mission impossible. Not to mention the mess.
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
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    fugetaboutit.
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pela-PL-6...dc&athena=true I use this oil extractor, it comes In handy sucking Jet Ski oil, Overfilled car oil, and I even use it on the lawn mower and Snow blower at the end of the season.
    Just extract the amount your over. I have used it many times to extract 2 quarts out of Spyders in Mid season and adding 2 fresh quarts till my winter oil change. You vcan get More expensive ones but this one has worked fine for me.

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  7. #7
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    There was some "old" specs that the 1330 engine needed 5.6 then 5.9 qts of oil when changed. BRP corrected that to 5.0 qts. The bulletin suggested that not every oil change resulted in needing exactly the same amount of oil. That makes sense. If you look up "Can Am Spyder 1330 oil capacity" you will see the bulletin and better understand what is going on. It may be that your dealer was looking at the previous and erroneous data when refilling your oil. If a correction is needed, siphoning is the only way to go..... Jim
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  8. #8
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    Yep, when I got my 2014 RT back from the dealer after its first 3k service it was one qt. over full. I had a small plastic tube about 3 ft. long and I shoved it down the fill hole and siphoned out one quart. Easy to do and very quick and inexpensive. Plus, I only needed 4 quarts for my next oil change. Some dealers...........well you know I mean.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canamjhb View Post
    There was some "old" specs that the 1330 engine needed 5.6 then 5.9 qts of oil when changed. BRP corrected that to 5.0 qts. The bulletin suggested that not every oil change resulted in needing exactly the same amount of oil. That makes sense. If you look up "Can Am Spyder 1330 oil capacity" you will see the bulletin and better understand what is going on. It may be that your dealer was looking at the previous and erroneous data when refilling your oil. If a correction is needed, siphoning is the only way to go..... Jim
    I searched for that phrase, didn't see reference to an oil bulletin. Could you post a link or directions to the referenced bulletin? Thanks. I can't ever seem to find the BRP TSB's, wish there was a sticky or whole forum for them.
    h0gr1der
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Sarge if it is so small an amount you can't be sure it is over then don't worry about it. If you really do need to get some out, don't loosen the drain plug. If your luck runs like mine there will be a mess. Just get an turkey injector and suck a little out. I bought mine at the grocery story for .98 cents.

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  11. #11
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    BRP doesn't publish TSBs to the paying masses. You have to have a friendly dealership service person.

    If one follows the operator's guide for the fill amount when changing the oil and filter, or oil and filter and HCM filter AND if one adheres to the caution in checking the oil about NOT ADDING ANY OIL IF THE OIL LEVEL ON THE DIPSTICK IS BETWEEN THE MIN AND MAX MARKS, one will not have a problem with overfilling. Unfortunately, some dealerships still have problems training technicians to do what the manufacturer recommends. End of rant.
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
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    If you have a brake bleeder you can get the oil out the dipstick with it. All you need is a quart jar, glass so you can see how much you get out. Tap and thread some hose barbs or just drill the lid and epoxy some plastic hose barbs. One should go a couple inches into the catch jar. The other ends right at the inside of the lid. The plastic tubing that goes in the dipstick hole goes on the longest barb. The suction pump hooks to the shortest barb. That is so the oil goes into the catch jar and is not sucked into the vacuum pump. You can suck out as much oil as you need to with this rig and tell about how much you get out by how much is in the quart jar. Some of the glass Mason canning jars even have ounce markings down the side of them.

    Hardware store or Discount Auto Parts Stores will have all the tubing and hose barbs you need. Don't need clamps for vacuum applications.

    The catch jar looks like this and works for bleeding brakes too...........



    You can also suck a small amount of oil out or maybe get it started siphoning with a large hypodermic syringe like the ones you use to dose horses or cattle. They are sold in most any farm supply stores.




    You don't need expensive vacuum pump. Little $15 plastic hand operated pump will do it. I been bleeding brakes with one for years.

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  13. #13
    Active Member wingit3611's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    If you have a brake bleeder you can get the oil out the dipstick with it. All you need is a quart jar, glass so you can see how much you get out. Tap and thread some hose barbs or just drill the lid and epoxy some plastic hose barbs. One should go a couple inches into the catch jar. The other ends right at the inside of the lid. The plastic tubing that goes in the dipstick hole goes on the longest barb. The suction pump hooks to the shortest barb. That is so the oil goes into the catch jar and is not sucked into the vacuum pump. You can suck out as much oil as you need to with this rig and tell about how much you get out by how much is in the quart jar. Some of the glass Mason canning jars even have ounce markings down the side of them.

    Hardware store or Discount Auto Parts Stores will have all the tubing and hose barbs you need. Don't need clamps for vacuum applications.

    The catch jar looks like this and works for bleeding brakes too...........



    You can also suck a small amount of oil out or maybe get it started siphoning with a large hypodermic syringe like the ones you use to dose horses or cattle. They are sold in most any farm supply stores.


    You don't need expensive vacuum pump. Little $15 plastic hand operated pump will do it. I been bleeding brakes with one for years.

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  14. #14
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    Been using the big syringe for years to put hyd oil and brake fluid in,saves bleeding,hadn't thought about taking it out with it!

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