Hi....need some help on removing the rear trunk so I can get at the back of the USB connector and empty hole to add a female 12v plug and tie it into the power for the USB...nothing in the manual and nothing on youtube...any help would be appreciated...a lot of screws/bolts back there and I don't want something to fall off.... :0)
Hi....need some help on removing the rear trunk so I can get at the back of the USB connector and empty hole to add a female 12v plug and tie it into the power for the USB...nothing in the manual and nothing on youtube...any help would be appreciated...a lot of screws/bolts back there and I don't want something to fall off.... :0)
Nope no going to happen.... I've taken my entire 2014 RT apart ( several times ) without benefit of a manual or diagram ….. You might want to label any ODD size bolts …. there are a couple of short ones , and I think two long ones ….. You could use the parts Fiche's from cheapcycleparts.com as a guide … they show where and what all the parts are ……. Mike
Nope no going to happen.... I've taken my entire 2014 RT apart ( several times ) without benefit of a manual or diagram ….. You might want to label any ODD size bolts …. there are a couple of short ones , and I think two long ones ….. You could use the parts Fiche's from cheapcycleparts.com as a guide … they show where and what all the parts are ……. Mike
Hey, thanks a lot for the link....I'll check it out tomorrow...
Bill, you da Man!!!!! Exactly what I was wanting to see...never would have looked under that name though....kept looking for Rear Cargo, Rear Trunk etc etc.....
Well, finally got up nerve to attack the rear end of my Spyder to install a 12v plug....panels came off easy enough after watching videos a couple time...planned on mounting the plug in the unused spot on the right side of the trunk...wouldn't ya know, of course it was oblong and not round so I dug out my little 'nipper' tool and of course, it didn't have a wide enough bite for the thickness of the plastic...so I searched my tool box for a reamer to clean it out...so solly, no reamer...off to the hardware store...they had a really nice reamer for a drill, but they wanted $50.00 for it.(and no manual one available)..so being frugal, I bought a mandrel with a stone on it for $5.98 and took it home..got the hole enlarged and mounted the new socket...couldn't get a good crimp on the wire ends, so I looked for my crimping tool...of course, couldn't find it.., so back to the hardware store...$9.98....got one end of the pos/neg wires attached to the socket and went to put the speaker housing back on, and of course, it wouldn't fit...have to cut some of it away....tomorrow tomorrow tomorrow....why didn't BRP put one in when they built the dang bike????
Ya know, sometimes I'm so stupid I amaze myself...it's bad when you can't see the forest for the trees....I took a break from the Spyder for a quickie nap and as I was lying on the couch scratching the dogs neck...I had this sudden flash!!!! why was I messing with putting in a 12v socket in the rear trunk,(after it was installed) when all I really want is a battery feed point for a tender??? Why why why???? All I really had to do was access the back of the USB plug and attach a pigtail and then drill a hole in the rubber plug and run the wire out there....
Or, get a USB power plug line and attach that to a plug for the tender... But then the obvious question arises, would that tiny little power plug be good enough to handle the battery tender....
This is really getting bad...removed the installed socket and put the cover back on, after accidentally knocking a nut out of it's holder, and thought I'd check the voltage on the USB port....can you believe .5mV????? not 12v, .5mV...went back and checked it with a different VOM and it didn't even move the needle on the 5v setting...so everything is at a standstill....I put both speaker covers back on and here I am, looking into installing a fuse block (fused) directly to the battery...it. Is. Always. Something....
This is really getting bad...removed the installed socket and put the cover back on, after accidentally knocking a nut out of it's holder, and thought I'd check the voltage on the USB port....can you believe .5mV????? not 12v, .5mV...went back and checked it with a different VOM and it didn't even move the needle on the 5v setting...so everything is at a standstill....I put both speaker covers back on and here I am, looking into installing a fuse block (fused) directly to the battery...it. Is. Always. Something....
Did you turn the key on when you checked voltage? The 12v power outlet is keyed power. In order for it to be constant you have to move a fuse.
Easy Schmeezy Battery Tender Connection...after trying the hard way....
Ok...this is the end of this story...thankfully....went out to the garage and took a look at the battery location, pulled off the cover and it was right there, up front and center, but low...didn't even have to contort myself to get to the terminal posts (which are 10mm by the way)...so it dug around and found a battery tender (I have no pecuniary interest in DelTran but I do have 4 of them)
and the leads for it...there were two battery clips and a fuse inline for the positive connection...looking around I also found another plugged hole to the top right side of the frunk. So, I replaced the two clamps with crimped connectors. Then I pulled the plug lose and cut a slot through it and fed the wire through down to the battery. Connected (10mm socket) the two terminals to + and - and checked the voltage at the plug end....12v....halleluah!!!!! So simple...put the battery cover back on and re installed the liner after feeding the USB and audio leads through their slot, and the new tender connection through a slot conveniently provided by BRP on the other side of the liner...buttoned it all up...then went to put the box liner in and found that two of the velcro tabs had come lose so had to glue them back (of course nothing ever goes right all the way down the line lol)...
Here's some pics..
I got lucky, the PO put one of those in that same location. Now all I need is an actual battery tender to connect to it.
2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
Rear Trunk
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Originally Posted by hershey
) without benefit of a manual or diagram ….. You might want to label any ODD size bolts …. there are a couple of short ones , and I think two long ones ….. You could use the parts Fiche's from cheapcycleparts.com as a guide … they show where and what all the parts are ……. Mike 
so I dug out my little 'nipper' tool and of course, it didn't have a wide enough bite for the thickness of the plastic...so I searched my tool box for a reamer to clean it out...so solly, no reamer...off to the hardware store...they had a really nice reamer for a drill, but they wanted $50.00 for it.(and no manual one available)..so being frugal, I bought a mandrel with a stone on it for $5.98 and took it home..got the hole enlarged and mounted the new socket...couldn't get a good crimp on the wire ends, so I looked for my crimping tool...of course, couldn't find it..
