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  1. #1
    Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Default Rear Wheel Bearings- Final Answer

    Here it is, itís worth what you pay for it. The seemingly never ending saga of rear wheel bearing replacement. Hereís what I found out on my quest. I really appreciate the folks that took time to guide me to the correct answers.

    There are 3 bearings on the rear. 2 single roller bearings and 1 double roller bearing. Interchange Part Numbers are (Not the BRP #.):
    30BD40DF2 (NSK) for the double roller. It is a common A/C clutch bearing for Fords and the like. Measures 30 I.D x 55 O.D. x 23W mm
    6205-2RS, 6205-2RSH, or 6205-2RS1 (SKF Explorer). Measures 25 I.D. x 52 O.D. x 15W mm It is a fairly common bearing, and is the C0, Cn, or Normal clearance. As long as it doesnít have any letters or numbers after the -2RS, 2RSH, or 2RS1 it is a normal clearance. Suffixes like /JEM or /C3 mean it is a one step looser bearing for running in higher temperature applications.

    You can still source these bearings from the U.S.A. The SKF Explorer 6205 series is now being made in France and Italy, but there are still some American ones out there. You can buy them off of eBay for about $9-$12 each. SKF marks their boxes and bearing races as to country of manufacture.
    NSK bearings are only marked on the seals, I didn't get a box with the one I bought. I was talking to NSK engineering, and they told me that if the seal didnít have country of origin, it was made in the USA. The NSK 6205DUL1 bearings I removed were clearly marked China. The double roller bearing in my drive pulley hub was unmarked as to country of origin, so it was U.S.A. already. These cost a little more, $25-$28 each.

    If you notice the bearings have different bore sizes. I inquired about this, and was told once I get in there Iíd understand. So the double roller bearing has a 3mm larger bore. See the attached pictures, the spacer that fits inside the double roller bearing fills the 3mm space to the axle shaft. I apologize for the weird pic, I had it backwards from the other one so I had to flip it to make it match.
    Rear Wheel Bearings-Shaft Items (1) - Small.jpgRear Wheel Bearings-Shaft Items (2) - Small.JPG
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Roadster Renovations Vibration Damper*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Default

    Good info, any info and part numbers on the front wheel bearings.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    Default

    Is this the same for the F3? Same bearings?
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  4. #4
    Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Default

    This is hearsay, but as I understand it all the Roadsters use the same bearings. I have absolutely no information on the front wheel bearings, I can't recall ever reading about a failure. I didn't address different brand bearings either, the NSK ones I took out are a decent brand, I just don't like the Chinese metallurgy. But the Chinese are making better products all the time. I will say this, I bash Harbor Freight tools for the same reason, poor metallurgy, but the only blind bearing puller available on short notice was a Harbor Freight. I worked perfectly. I couldn't find Timken brand made in the USA for this series bearing, which I really am sad to see them quit making bearings. I've never had a Timken fail.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Roadster Renovations Vibration Damper*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  5. #5
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    Default Bearing

    Will this bearing work?
    Jim
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    I can't give bearing advice, I can only tell you what I have learned and heard. You'll notice that the bearing is a C3 clearance suffix. The bearings on the rear of the Spyder are a C0, CN, or Normal (denoted by no suffix modifier to the part number). The reasoning behind a looser bearing in an electric motor is that unlike the rear of a motorcycle which is relatively mild service, an electric motor develops heat and the bearings will swell up and lose tolerance from that heat. That bearing is also a shielded, non contact metal bearing as denoted by the ZZ part of the suffix. Some folks have used that bearing, and with all the crappy tolerances in the rim, and the earlier split hub a looser fit may be a good thing. I was told by a motorcycle bearing guy a C3 would be fine, but I specifically stayed in the original specification that Can Am put forth. That bearing will fit, but putting it in there is 100% your choice. Our bikes use a 6205 series bearing, normal tolerance, with 2 contact rubber seals. You also have the double row bearing, but that is a more defined choice. There simply aren't that many choices for that bearing.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Roadster Renovations Vibration Damper*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Thanks .....

    A lot of leg work but very good information. for keep us informed and great that you have all you need to keep on rolling....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  8. #8
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    Thank for the info. I’m now really confused now. Could you just list the correct bearing number so I can go to a bearing suppler and ask for that number and or list the part number and a link from a supplier that I can order it from both bearings. I’m not understanding the bearing info it’s over my head.

    Jim

  9. #9
    Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Our bearings are 6205-2RS in it's most simple form. That is the 2 deep groove single width wheel bearings. Take than number and you can source bearings. Just remember to get a normal clearance. Or, you could order OEM bearings from the Can Am getting place. They are NSK, a good brand. 6205DUL1 is the NSK part number. All bearing manufacturers use different nomenclature, but it's all the same stuff. 6205 is the size and description, and the SKF suffix of -2RS means 2 rubber seals. On NSK, the DUL1 means the same thing. Other manufacturers use even more jargon.
    h0gr1der
    2018 RT Limited Blue/Chrome SE6 *Tri-Axis Bars*Adjustable Driver Backrest*175/55R15 Vredestein Front, 205/60R15 Vredestein Rear Tires*Baja Ron Front Spring Pre-Load Adjusters*Roadster Renovations Vibration Damper*Misty Mountain Sheepskin seat cover*Centramatic balancers *Garmin Zumo 595LM GPS*KOTT Grills*BajaRon swaybar*SpyderPops Alignment*Missing Belt guard
    States Visited on Less than 4 wheels.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    There - that's certainly cleared things up for you Jimbo.
    The best substitute for brains is....................what?

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    Default

    hogrider

    Where did you get the new seals - BRP or?
    The best substitute for brains is....................what?

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