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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    I could be wrong but I don't think Euro is the right Valvoline to use. I think you need 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil full synthetic, It comes in 10w 40 or 20w50. The motorcycle oil is wet clutch specific. The Euro is a European car oil and my not work in wet clutches.
    Euro style oils typically have better HTHS numbers (high temp/high shear) and high calcium levels for extended drain intervals.
    Both of what you want in a common sump/gearbox. Leave it in, it's fine.
    Lots of discussion on car vs. MC oils. When you analyze them, many are splitting hairs. The difference between Mobil1 car oil and MC oil is a bit more Z and P, and about 7PPM less moly in the MC oil. Both are, for all practical purposes, interchangeable.Wet clutches slip and glaze because of spring tension in the clutch basket or other mechanical problems, not because of oils.
    I just bought a stash of 10w40 Havoline conventional for future changes because those weights are becoming less and less popular with the auto crowd. It was on closeout, and can't beat 2.00 a quart now. The trend is going thinner, there are now some 0w8 offerings for cars. I'm not worried in the least putting a conventional, auto oil in the Spyder for the next season.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carbonation View Post
    Euro style oils typically have better HTHS numbers (high temp/high shear) and high calcium levels for extended drain intervals.
    Both of what you want in a common sump/gearbox. Leave it in, it's fine.
    Lots of discussion on car vs. MC oils. When you analyze them, many are splitting hairs. The difference between Mobil1 car oil and MC oil is a bit more Z and P, and about 7PPM less moly in the MC oil. Both are, for all practical purposes, interchangeable.Wet clutches slip and glaze because of spring tension in the clutch basket or other mechanical problems, not because of oils.
    I just bought a stash of 10w40 Havoline conventional for future changes because those weights are becoming less and less popular with the auto crowd. It was on closeout, and can't beat 2.00 a quart now. The trend is going thinner, there are now some 0w8 offerings for cars. I'm not worried in the least putting a conventional, auto oil in the Spyder for the next season.
    I'm hyper FRUGAL, but I wouldn't take his advice..... if the oil doesn't have a Jaso MA II rating it's NOT going in my Spyder - PERIOD ..... good luck .... Mike
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-29-2023 at 06:50 PM. Reason: 4

  3. #3
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I'm hyper FRUGAL, but I wouldn't take his advice..... if the oil doesn't have a Jaso MA II rating it's NOT going in my Spyder - PERIOD ..... good luck .... Mike
    There have been some interesting discussions regarding the JASO rating of the Rotella T6. Interesting in that others brought up that while the label states the oil is JASO MA2 approved, the Rotella T6 has not been posted on the most recent, and even previous JASO lists of oils submitted, tested and approved by the JASO.

    I can not explain or understand why if the oil is actually approved, even if by testing from an independent lab, or by the JASO, the oil has not made it onto the JASO published list of approved oils.

    Is there anyone that has been involved within the oil industry that can clarify the reasoning of why Rotella T6 was not listed as approved by the JASO in theirpublished approval list?

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