Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    63
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Another windshield thread......

    I have a 2016 F3 T and recently installed a Madstad windshield and bracket. At 70 mph the shield shakes and flaps violently as if it is going to fly apart and come off. The dash, handlebars and mirrors are shaking noticeably different after installing the Madstad. I have had no issues when I have used Madstad brackets with different shields on other bikes. No matter how I angle it or what height it is adjusted to it shakes and vibrates badly. The stock shield has those two vents cut out at the bottom. I wonder if that or those flimsy brackets, or both are the problem. Has anyone else experienced this? Also, will the F4 shield bolt right up to the Madstad bracket? If it does will the F4 shield vibrate as well? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Hi Cyclerider,

    I used both the Madstad and F4 on my 16 F3-L. I do not experience the shakes you refer to with the Madstad, and I have it set at the highest adjustment. It would be worth a call to Madstad to ensure you have all the washers in the right sequence. You are the first person I have seen who has raised this about the Madstad (which doesn’t mean that it hasn’t happened to others though)

    I also used the F4 on the Madstad brackets. The holes do NOT align and you have to drill extra holes in the F4. I also noticed a fair bit of vibration on the F4 screen using this setup, which was not there when the F4 was bolted to the correct mounting. I was wary of that vibration so I now only use the Madstad screen on the Madstad mounting. I mounted the F4 on the Madstad to give me a little more screen height (I’m 6’7”), and I love the F4 coverage and ease of cleaning. It is a great screen, but just not tall enough for me.
    Hope this helps,

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  3. #3
    Active Member Airborne's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Tasmania, Ausralia
    Posts
    147
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I know a couple of people over here with Madstad screens and they don;t report any issues.

    I Have just bought, installed and tried out a Freedom shield from Lamonster garage through this site and apart from a slight bit of back pressure at or above 110 kph it is good, steady as well. Good price though them as well.

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Ex-Rocket's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Marion, Arkansas
    Posts
    1,783
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have the Madstad windshield on my 2017 F3 Limited and there is no shaking or vibrating. Mirrors are rock solid. I'd call Madstad and tell them your problems. Something is not sounding right. Are you sure you assembled everything per instructions? Are all the screws tight that secure the brackets to the bike and that hold the windshield?



    2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl

    2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)

    2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)

    2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander

  5. #5
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    63
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Hi Cyclerider,

    I used both the Madstad and F4 on my 16 F3-L. I do not experience the shakes you refer to with the Madstad, and I have it set at the highest adjustment. It would be worth a call to Madstad to ensure you have all the washers in the right sequence. You are the first person I have seen who has raised this about the Madstad (which doesn’t mean that it hasn’t happened to others though)

    I also used the F4 on the Madstad brackets. The holes do NOT align and you have to drill extra holes in the F4. I also noticed a fair bit of vibration on the F4 screen using this setup, which was not there when the F4 was bolted to the correct mounting. I was wary of that vibration so I now only use the Madstad screen on the Madstad mounting. I mounted the F4 on the Madstad to give me a little more screen height (I’m 6’7”), and I love the F4 coverage and ease of cleaning. It is a great screen, but just not tall enough for me.
    Hope this helps,

    Pete
    Thanks for the information! I did have an issue with the brackets being bent in the wrong direction which prevented me from mounting the shield. So they sent me new brackets and assured I had everything mounted properly. So the washer sequence is not the problem. What about the rubber nuts that pass through the shield mounting holes? How tight should they be? They seem like they would strip or just come apart if I over tightened them. On two other motorcycles I discarded those nuts (I did not trust them) and used nylon washers with lock nuts. This time I thought I would try them.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclerider View Post
    Thanks for the information! I did have an issue with the brackets being bent in the wrong direction which prevented me from mounting the shield. So they sent me new brackets and assured I had everything mounted properly. So the washer sequence is not the problem. What about the rubber nuts that pass through the shield mounting holes? How tight should they be? They seem like they would strip or just come apart if I over tightened them. On two other motorcycles I discarded those nuts (I did not trust them) and used nylon washers with lock nuts. This time I thought I would try them.
    Yeah, I wasn’t sure about the rubber nuts either. But I used them, careful not to overtighten them, and they have been rock solid. Sorry I can’t help more with the shaking, but it is beyond my experience. All you can do is keep at Madstad as the shaking you are getting is certainly not standard, and they are pretty good with customer service.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    I’ll duck out to the garage when I get home in a hour or so, and post a few photos so you can see if they look any different
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  9. #9
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Northglenn Colorado
    Posts
    1,343
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I use the blue ridge with the x-creen. In the summer I take the x-creen off. Great and simple setup for me

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    I use the blue ridge with the x-creen. In the summer I take the x-creen off. Great and simple setup for me
    That’s great, Tazzel, but how does that help Cyclerider with his shaking Madstad problem?

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  11. #11
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    63
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Thank you for those pictures! You definitely have those rubber nuts tightened more than I do. I can tell by more threads showing than what I have. I bought and installed lock nuts and nylon washers like I did before and it is at least 70% improved. It looks like you have those rubber washers contacting the shield in the front (installed on the windshield bolt first). Is that correct? That is how it appears in the pictures from my view. I have the rubber washers between the shield and the bracket. i appreciate you taking the time to take those pictures. Very helpful.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclerider View Post
    Thank you for those pictures! You definitely have those rubber nuts tightened more than I do. I can tell by more threads showing than what I have. I bought and installed lock nuts and nylon washers like I did before and it is at least 70% improved. It looks like you have those rubber washers contacting the shield in the front (installed on the windshield bolt first). Is that correct? That is how it appears in the pictures from my view. I have the rubber washers between the shield and the bracket. i appreciate you taking the time to take those pictures. Very helpful.
    You have just jogged my memory, Cyclerider. I think the washer in front of the screen might have been from the F4, and when I was reinstalling the Madstad screen, I thought that a little extra cushioning would not go astray. I know that I did not heavily tighten the bolts, but I did tighten them firmly.

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  13. #13
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Northglenn Colorado
    Posts
    1,343
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    That’s great, Tazzel, but how does that help Cyclerider with his shaking Madstad problem?

    Pete
    Have a right to add any comment I want.

  14. #14
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    63
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    I use the blue ridge with the x-creen. In the summer I take the x-creen off. Great and simple setup for me
    I use the x screen as well. I like it. No matter what position I put the Madstad in it would create a turbulence around my helmet. The stock screen was ok but I just wanted more protection from the rain. That is why I went with a wider and taller screen. Tell me about the blue ridge screen. Not familiar with that one. Thanks!

  15. #15
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Cloquet Mn
    Posts
    232
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have the Madstad windshield and it felt a little loose on my F3 I tightened the 10mm nut on the bracket and it's solid but you will have to loosen it a little to make adjustments.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,158
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    Have a right to add any comment I want.
    Of course you do......no one said you couldn’t......
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  17. #17
    SpyderLovers Sponsor F4 Customs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Twinsburg, Ohio
    Posts
    697
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    The F4 Windshield is made from high optics polycarbonate and then has a hard coating baked in to make it highly scratch resistant and shed rain. It also can be cleaned with any glass cleaner and paper towels.
    The big difference is polycarbonate and not acrylic. Www.f4customs.com
    F4 Customs, Inc.
    "The Motorcycle Windshield Folks"
    941-347-7496
    sales@f4customs.com
    <a href='http://www.spyderlovers.com/adserver/www/delivery/ck.php?zoneid=22' target='_blank'><img src='http://www.spyderlovers.com/adserver/www/delivery/avw.php?zoneid=22&cb=567846784' border='0' alt='' /></a>

  18. #18
    Active Member GaryinWI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Western WI
    Posts
    143
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I have a special built 24” Madstad on my ‘17 F3L and no vibration or flopping. In fact seems more solid than stock. Are you sure you have the pivot bolt tightened properly. Not tight as it has to move. All other mounts tight. Try to move it when stopped and see where movement is occurring.
    2017 F3 Limited , Gloss Black with red and carbon fiber accents

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •