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  1. #76
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    PMK,...nice to know there is at least one other Ex Fellow Plater here on Spyder Lovers and a Spyder riding Plater! Hoping we are not headed too far off Topic on this Sprocket thread, .......stripping Nickel plating off a combination of steel and bronze weld is going to be a problem for you. The Stripper that will dissolve Nickel off steel with out etching the steel will etch the bronze badly, and the Stripper that will strip Nickel from Bronze will etch the steel badly. Reverse plating the Nickel off the frame, while watching to stop when the bronze weld is first exposed, would be the safest way to proceed. Its been awhile since I have worked for Chemical Suppliers, so there might be some new proprietary Chemical stripper on the Market that will strip nickel plating from both steel and bronze with out etching either. But it will be a real challenge. If it were me, Id first try to MASK the bronze weld areas, with a Masking Paint, then use a Nickel from steel Stripper, cold, to strip the Nickel off steel. One Lb. Per Gal. Of Sodium Cyanide, with 4 oz. per Gal. of Sodium Metanitro benzine sultanate would strip the nickel off steel with out etching it, but would attack the bronze. But needing such a large Tank of the Chemical will be more than a home garage project. I suggest contacting a few local Plating Contract Shops in your area to get help from. Good luck!!
    Here is a Link to my last published Plating Article, in Metal Finishing Magazine, about 6 months before I retired, in 2010. My Last Hurrah before retiring.
    https://www.materialstoday.com/metal...ing-equipment/
    007james


    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    FWIW, on the Sikorskys, the nickel is a cap over the titanium leading edge that is adhesive bonded over the blades composite structure. Removing the nickel cap is a challenge to remove.

    At one previous job, besides operating and overseeing the entire NDT lab, I was also tasked with maintaining the baths for Type 1 anodize, cadmium plating, plus the strip tanks and haz mat. Never enjoyed any of that. Next job, besides structure work, I was doing brush plating, plus maintaining that.

    While not at your level in regards to plating, I have a little bit of experience with it.

    So, that leads me to ask, I need a method to strip nickel from steel without destruction to the bronze welding that joins the tubes of my 1971 Rickman Metisse frame. Seems no plating shops that are local have a tank adequate to handle the frames dimensions.

  2. #77
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondje View Post
    So I have been thinking about using this since the solution changed from locking things down. Just been waiting to do my rear tire change at the same time.

    Have had it around all my life as my dad was a navy and merchant marine, ship board maintenance electrician.

    Regards,

    Don

    BTW: Don't get it on your hands or clothing. It doesn't wash out.

    "Mariner's Choice NMCBT-8, Marine Grade Never Seez, provides extreme pressure lubrication and protects against seizure, galling, and corrosion both above and below the water line. Use on winches, cables, bilge pumps, anchor lines, porthole studs, rigging, hoist cables, suspension bridges, wind turbines, offshore rigging, or other applications exposed to harsh salt water and freshwater conditions. Requires about 41% less torque while providing the same clamping force on threads. Perfect for high moisture environments!"

    I checked the price . not cheap, $19.99 , but it is Free Ground shipping .. so if this works ....Mike

  3. #78
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I checked the price …. not cheap, $19.99 , but it is Free Ground shipping ….. so if this works ...……….Mike
    The Honda spline lube is similar or less expensive and purpose specific for lubricating splines. Seems that could be a better choice, but whatever works.

  4. #79
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    The Honda spline lube is similar or less expensive and purpose specific for lubricating splines. Seems that could be a better choice, but whatever works.
    ....Thanks , but I seem to remember reading they don't sell it anymore …… the Bostik was for 8 oz., so enough to share or multiple applications …. PS I have 45,000+ miles …. and I don't see any RED DUST etc …. Mike

  5. #80
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ....Thanks , but I seem to remember reading they don't sell it anymore …… the Bostik was for 8 oz., so enough to share or multiple applications …. PS I have 45,000+ miles …. and I don't see any RED DUST etc …. Mike
    When deciding on a spline lube for our machine, the Honda dealer had the stuff in stock.

    Honda does not make the paste, I believe it is just Molykote M77

  6. #81
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    I have a 2016 RTS. Front pulley failure at 18,000 miles. Replaced under warranty. Out of warranty now another failure at 28,000 miles so only got 10000 miles out of last pulley

  7. #82
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    Oneway, ....pretty much same on my RT. First Failure at 21,500, and the 2nd at 33,800 miles. Both fixed under Warrantee, and I just bought another 3 year BEST Extended. So my next Sprocket failure will cost me $50 Deductible, plus more down time. Obviously, I wonder how many more miles my 3rd Sprocket will hold up before failing, and the Big concern is, will my Shaft have enough spline material left to accept another, or more Sprocket Pulleys? In your case, with no Warrantee, I would guess changing the Sprocket out again, if it can be removed from the Shaft, will cost you about $500.00 U.S. ( with no surprises.) but if the Shaft splines are too far gone, than the entire engine will have to be removed, with case split, to remove the Shaft, which I have heard all kinds of different guesses on how many hours of labor will be required, up to 25 hours. With no Warrantee, that would be Land Fill time for me! Or, Id look for a Back Yard Mechanic who might try to get it fixed enough to sell it. But Id stay real close to Home with it. No doubt, as more time rolls on, and the 2014 and up RTs and Fs will be reporting as the miles and experiences are shared here,....hopefully.
    007James


    Quote Originally Posted by oneway View Post
    I have a 2016 RTS. Front pulley failure at 18,000 miles. Replaced under warranty. Out of warranty now another failure at 28,000 miles so only got 10000 miles out of last pulley

  8. #83
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    our experience has shown that the sprockets that have repeated failures were not installed with the required spline lube or the previously recommended loctite.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  9. #84
    Active Member johnv50's Avatar
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    After reading through all 4 pages I did not hear of anyone with a 2017 or newer F3 having this issue. I had my belt tension set to the new recommended tension and am wondering if that appears to help with this failure ??

    johnv
    USMC RETIRED


  10. #85
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnv50 View Post
    After reading through all 4 pages I did not hear of anyone with a 2017 or newer F3 having this issue. I had my belt tension set to the new recommended tension and am wondering if that appears to help with this failure ??

    johnv
    Yes, have seen it on 17s and 18s as well. Have not had a 19 do it yet but its just a matter of time. The sprocket part is unchanged 2015 to current and at least the 2018s were still being installed dry at the factory. Perhaps it changed for 19.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  11. #86
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    Just pulled the front sprocket, cleaned and applied that moly grease before putting it back together.
    Surprisingly, there was no wear as far as I can tell and it had some white stuff on the spline.
    2015 RS with 12k.
    I was concerned because my old 09 had failed front sprocket 3 times including replacement of main shaft that requires engine rebuild.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  12. #87
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    AKA, was the engine on your 09 rebuilt under Warrantee? If not, who did it, and how many hours approx. Labor was required, and total cost of rebuilding? I think that if an engine is under Warrantee, and a Mom & Pop Dealer with non Certified Can-Am Spyder Mechanics are called to the Task of removing the Spyder engine, splitting the case, inspecting all of the parts that might have failed, negotiating new or used replacement parts, reassembling, while trying to juggle keeping a Motorcycle Dealership in business during peak riding season,...,Can-Am might decide it is more economical to take a new engine sitting on the shelf and send it to the Dealer to install rather than rebuild the old one.
    007James


    Quote Originally Posted by aka1004 View Post
    Just pulled the front sprocket, cleaned and applied that moly grease before putting it back together.
    Surprisingly, there was no wear as far as I can tell and it had some white stuff on the spline.
    2015 RS with 12k.
    I was concerned because my old 09 had failed front sprocket 3 times including replacement of main shaft that requires engine rebuild.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnv50 View Post
    After reading through all 4 pages I did not hear of anyone with a 2017 or newer F3 having this issue. I had my belt tension set to the new recommended tension and am wondering if that appears to help with this failure ??

    johnv
    I have a 17 F3T and had the ‘red dust’ last year. My dealer replaced the sprocket but not without a fight.

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  14. #89
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    It was done under 3rd party extended warranty.
    I dont remember name of that 3 rd party but they picked up the whole tab so I dont know how much the bill was.
    It was done at an authorized dealer by possibility not well trained mechanic because engine blew up the day I picked it up.
    Valves destroyed the pistons. Engine was rebuilt again and dealer and brp split that bill of $8500 and at the time, new engine was $7500.
    6 states down 42 states to go

  15. #90
    Active Member johnv50's Avatar
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    SpyderAnn01....was your belt tension set to the new lower setting before the sprocket failed ??
    what was your mileage at time of seeing the red dust ??

    thanks johnv
    USMC RETIRED


  16. #91
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    What was the tension set at

  17. #92
    Active Member SpyderF3-s's Avatar
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    Default 5th spocket going bad!

    I checked the sprocket this weekend and the bolt was loose hanging out! Red dust! Just a matter of time now until the 5th sprocket goes bad! Back to the shop in less than 5 months.

    IMG_0980.jpg
    Last edited by SpyderF3-s; 09-03-2019 at 01:45 PM. Reason: spelling
    God bless those who serve/served our country!

  18. #93
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    That bolt is screwed out! That's not a sprocket failure that's a fitment failure. Plainly you'll need a new sprocket because it's been rattling around on the splines but the new one needs to be fitted correctly.

    The shaft need to be thoroughly checked too because each time there's rusting and movement it's loosing metal.

  19. #94
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    Plainly you'll need a new sprocket ...........and bolt.

    The old reliability spyder bites again.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

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