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Thread: Over heating

  1. #1
    Member John Moody's Avatar
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    Default Over heating

    I have a 2014 RT Limited with 40k plus miles. Highway driving temperature gauge reads normal (just below halfway mark), but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in (minute or 2 later) and temperature gauge goes very high when driving fast again (highway speed) temperature goes back to normal. Dealership hook to the computer and said the water pump is working ok and when they raising rpm above 1400 temperature goes back to normal. Radiator fluid level is ok. Not sure what to do to correct the problem. Dealership is going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid, but not sure if this will correct the problem. Need help please I missing my ride the last few days.
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-26-2019 at 04:07 AM. Reason: Deleted spaces & odd keystrokes that extended post over 2 pages!

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    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    If your Spyder was a 4WD or diesel truck I'd be suggesting the viscous coupler for the fan wasn't working properly, so the engine cools well enough when you've got a fair amount of airflow, which is usually only at speed with little load, but it runs hot whenever it has very little airflow volume when you're travelling slow because the fan is just not doing all that it should be doing!!

    But this is a Spyder, with thermostat activated electric fans.... so maybe the fans aren't doing what they should, or maybe the ducting leading air flow to the radiators down the sides of the frunk are at least partially blocked?!?

    Maybe you should pull the front grilles & check that all ducting down the sides of the frunk are clean & not partially blocked with dust, mud, grass seeds etc or something along those lines before doing anything else; and if all that ducting's not blocked at least some, then I reckon it's gotta be time to check out the fans & their operation to make sure they are cutting in and running as & when & as hard as they should?!?

    And if it's not either of those, it's probably time to check the thermostat for proper opening & closing at approp temps; then if it's still not sorted, pull the rads out, backflush the whole cooling system & clean the rad cores & fins inside & out; and if it's still doing the wrong thing, then maybe it's time to start looking elsewhere?!?

    Good Luck!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-26-2019 at 04:27 AM.
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    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    Yeah, good luck with all that John
    The best substitute for brains is....................what?

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    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    The radiators can get a bunch of debris stuck in the fins, check that out first.
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Moody View Post
    I have a 2014 RT Limited with 40k plus miles. Highway driving temperature gauge reads normal (just below halfway mark), but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in (minute or 2 later) and temperature gauge goes very high when driving fast again (highway speed) temperature goes back to normal. Dealership hook to the computer and said the water pump is working ok and when they raising rpm above 1400 temperature goes back to normal. Radiator fluid level is ok. Not sure what to do to correct the problem. Dealership is going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid, but not sure if this will correct the problem. Need help please I missing my ride the last few days.
    I have the same Spyder you have with the same mileage …. I still have the same anti-freeze as when delivered …. the only time my Fans go into reverse is if I'm sitting and idling …. If you still have the orig. anti-freeze it won't be a waste of money having the flush and re-place done …. but I think that dealer is Guessing about the fix ( and making money from it ) ….. Since you have the SE trans, you can't be lugging it and therefore straining the system..... I re-moved my OEM grills and have ones that can be completely removed for cleaning the fins … You can do it by removing the Frunk for access. Another thing to check is - is the cap on CORRECTLY - the system needs to be pressurized to work correctly …. good luck … Mike

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Have to agree....

    Start with cleaning the grills and radiator fins for better flow as if it has not been done for 40,000 miles it has build up. Now if the reverse fans are coming on at the wrong time it would be time to check that system as they were designed to remove heat from the engine compartment when in a slow or stopped condition. Let us know what you find....
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    If the fans are running on reverse at any speed above about 5 MPH......then they are resisting the proper flow of air and effectively causing NO FLOW of air across the radiator.

    Before you spend any money on anything else, that MUST be fixed first.

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    If this were a car, all indications would be a faulty, sticking thermostat. They do go bad occasionally. Not an expensive part to replace.

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    Member John Moody's Avatar
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    bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
    how to ride

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    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    If it is a thermostat, know that this is NOT an inexpensive fix. The thermostat and water pump are both one unit. My bike is in the shop now for a stuck thermostat and the dealer quoted me close to 1K for repair except mine is being covered by warranty. Another engineering genius from BRP..... Jim
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Moody View Post
    bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
    how to ride
    It will NOT fix any problem.......as long as the fans are running the WRONG WAY AT LOW SPEEDS.

    IF.... what you said is really true, you MUST point that out to the shop.......or this is going to be a very costly and frustrating experience.

    Quote Originally Posted by John Moody View Post
    but when I drive below 35 mph my reverse fan kicked in

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Moody View Post
    bike stall in the shop dealer may get to it next week. They going to flush the radiator and add fresh fluid. I hope this will correct the problem and I ask about the thermostat. Been 3 week without riding, hopefully I remember
    how to ride
    " flush & replace coolant " …… IMHO if this fixes your issue …. you will have been the recipient of a Miracle ……………...good luck ….. Mike

  13. #13
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    My radiators on my 14RT were replaced when they did the same thing. I had had two cases of it overheating once in Alaska and the other in Quebec, the common denominator was we had ridden on dirt/mud roads in rain. My fins were caked with mud so no air was flowing. BRP replaced them under extended warranty while we were at the 10th Anniversary in Valcourt.

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    Member John Moody's Avatar
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    Finally got my spyder back yesterday after replacing the water pump. took her on a 250 miles road trip Saturday with no overheating problem.

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    Just got back from a 9500 mile trip cross country on my 2016 F3 Limited, and had several problems with overheating of the engine. Once going into Palm Desert but the air temp was 114F not a big surprise when we got off the interstate into town with traffic lights the bike overheated. I got off the road before going into limp home mode but the bike was not running well.. no acceleration. Anyway.. had it checked out and needed some coolant.. all fixed until the next 3 times I was under load in 1st gear (uphill behind slow cars) and it over heated again. Fan was running but not doing enough and the outside temp was in the upper 70's. Dealership in Rapid City checked everything out and all was good. Any suggestions?
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    Any suggestions?
    IF.....the other basics have been checked out.....like fans running at the right speed AND DIRECTION, air intake not blocked (radiator fins clean) and pressure cap good, then.....you have posted this in a thread where a water pump had failed and that was the problem. Suggestion.

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    Just got back from a 9500 mile trip cross country on my 2016 F3 Limited, and had several problems with overheating of the engine. Once going into Palm Desert but the air temp was 114F not a big surprise when we got off the interstate into town with traffic lights the bike overheated. I got off the road before going into limp home mode but the bike was not running well.. no acceleration. Anyway.. had it checked out and needed some coolant.. all fixed until the next 3 times I was under load in 1st gear (uphill behind slow cars) and it over heated again. Fan was running but not doing enough and the outside temp was in the upper 70's. Dealership in Rapid City checked everything out and all was good. Any suggestions?
    The cooling system in your Spyder needs to be " Pressurized " for it to work properly ….. I have read the most common fault is a Rad CAP not put on properly...… Under normal temps that might work , but you were in Extreme Temps under load ….. and this may caused a leak ….. Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    The cooling system in your Spyder needs to be " Pressurized " for it to work properly ….. I have read the most common fault is a Rad CAP not put on properly...… Under normal temps that might work , but you were in Extreme Temps under load ….. and this may caused a leak ….. Mike
    Everything checked out at the 1st dealership..only some coolant needed. After it happened again I went to the dealer in Rapid City. They worked on it for 2 hours.. ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 RPMs and the fan kicked in at 235 degrees as it should and the temp never got over the 1/2 way mark. No codes in the system etc. I was just wondering if anyone else had a problem and what could be done to get the bike to run cooler. I would sure appreciate a cooler ride in the summer!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    . I re-moved my OEM grills and have ones that can be completely removed for cleaning the fins … You can do it by removing the Frunk for access.
    Mike.. Who has aftermarket grilles for the F3?
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    Everything checked out at the 1st dealership..only some coolant needed. After it happened again I went to the dealer in Rapid City. They worked on it for 2 hours.. ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 RPMs and the fan kicked in at 235 degrees as it should and the temp never got over the 1/2 way mark. No codes in the system etc. I was just wondering if anyone else had a problem and what could be done to get the bike to run cooler. I would sure appreciate a cooler ride in the summer!
    It's possible that the Cap wasn't 100% sealed and then at the other dealership they got it on 100% …… and system became fully pressurized …. my best guess ….. Mike

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    Mike.. Who has aftermarket grilles for the F3?
    For F-3 I don't know ….. for RT there are a few choices, I made mine using the OEM grilles. I moved them forward in the opening and made them easily removeable ….. Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    the fan kicked in at 235 degrees as it should and the temp never got over the 1/2 way mark.
    I was just wondering if anyone else had a problem and what could be done to get the bike to run cooler.
    That is perfectly normal. The other things that happened are NOT.

    You don't WANT the engine to run any cooler; that is the point where it was designed for.
    Keeping the heat off of the rider is an entirely different problem.

    Alas, I think you might need to be near a dealer when this happens to figure it out.
    And you should be ready to do some quick checks yourself......like being sure the fan is running right and being sure that coolant isn't spewing out anywhere but the overflow.

    Intermittent problems are a bear; especially when some of the suspected components are hard to test.......like the fuel pump.

    I assume that you are now checking the coolant level often ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    That is perfectly normal. The other things that happened are NOT.

    You don't WANT the engine to run any cooler; that is the point where it was designed for.
    Keeping the heat off of the rider is an entirely different problem.

    Alas, I think you might need to be near a dealer when this happens to figure it out.
    And you should be ready to do some quick checks yourself......like being sure the fan is running right and being sure that coolant isn't spewing out anywhere but the overflow.

    Intermittent problems are a bear; especially when some of the suspected components are hard to test.......like the fuel pump.

    I assume that you are now checking the coolant level often ??
    Yes.. I do check the coolant level and never have it spew out of any place.. never seen anything under the bike to indicate the loss of any fluid.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeriK View Post
    Yes.. I do check the coolant level and never have it spew out of any place.. never seen anything under the bike to indicate the loss of any fluid.
    Good. But those are two different things. Sometimes fluid loss ONLY occurs when going down the road.

    That probably eliminates the pressure cap. But there still is the thermostat and pump.

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    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Wifes 16 F3T went into Limp Mode after 20 miles down the Interstate last evening in 100 plus temperature. She said that the temp bars were one blank from the top, but she was able to run 50 mph in the right lane for 2 miles to get to an exit. When she got off the Interstate, she let shut it off for a few minutes and then restarted and rode the rest of the 12 miles home on secondary roads with the temp bars in the middle. When she pulled into the garage, the fans were running constant.

    This morning I took off the grille, and front wheels and unbolted the fans so I could clean and back flush the radiator fins. I didn't see a lot of obvious bugs or butterflies, but a spotlight showed that light was impeded thru the fins.

    After vacuuming from inside, using and air nozzle from the sides,,I soaked with various cleaners, backflushed, blew out with the leaf blower, and repeated three more times... I can now see light shining thru the fins...

    Even though the radiators were not visibly plugged, fine grit, crud and guts seem to have built up over the three years and 47,000 miles. The hardest part was getting the fan mounting nuts off in the rear of the frunk. CrudInside.jpgBackflushfromSide.jpgCleaningRadiators.jpg
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