-
Brakes
I need some help with a brake issue. I recently bought EBC brake pads and rotors for my 2015 RT limited. I replaced them yesterday, everything went smooth with changing them. On the first ride the pedal was really soft. after pumping them they got better. They are working fine but if I am going over about 25 mph and apply the brakes they are making a noise. It does not make this noise at lower speeds.
My question is, does the new rotors require a break in period or is it that something is not seated right?
2015 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
Magic Mirrors
Short Antenna
LaMonster Dual Power Plate
LED Headlights
LED Fog lights
Vibration Damper
Spyclops
Spyclops II
Utopia Back Rest
-
Very Active Member
Ron recommends chamfering ( beveling ) the front and rear of all the pads just a bit ….. also cutting a diagonal line in the pads helps with dust and water removal ….. lastly did you follow the Break-in procedure ? ? ? …… Mike
-
Very Active Member
There is....
You do need to seat the pads. You can check with BajaRon a sponsor vendor here (home page link) who can get you instructions on that proceedure. I believe you should run a series of fast stopping from 60mph not stopping and get the pad good and hot and then roll on to cool them off. BajaRon is the go to guy when it comes to EBC braking supplies.... He may also recommend rounding off all sharp edges depending on the type of pads you installed and maybe a groove as well....
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
Very Active Member
Did you clean the new rotor thoroughly? Rotors come from the factory with a protective film that has to be cleaned off before installation.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
-
Very Active Member
Did you clean the rotor(s) as KX posted? Did you buy the pads and rotors from Bajaron? If so did you follow his very complete instructions to the letter? Did you check the pedal travel after you replaced the front pads and again after you changed the rear pads? Did you check the brake fluid level in both portions of the master cylinder reservoir and top off if necessary? Did you test the brake pedal travel and ensure it was firm BEFORE you turned on the ignition after the pad/rotor change? Did you do 4-6 "panic" slow downs (as Ron recommends) to bed the pads? If you did everything according to the instructions your first stop when you took the Spyder out to bed the pads would have been a firm pedal that stopped the bike. Then, once you bedded the pads and rode 5 or so miles to allow them to cool you would have discovered you had excellent brakes, better than with OEM pads. If not, go back and correct what you missed.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
-
Very Active Member
+1 on cleaning the discs with brake cleaner or alcohol. Also place a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and stroke the pads on it a few times and clean the dust off prior to installing.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
-
Very Active Member
I think I know what you are talking about. It is not a squeal like they need to be seated, but almost like a buzz, not loud but there. I told my wife the cicadas are out every time I hit the brakes, thousands of miles later mine are still doing it.
Wouldn't trade those pads for any others for stopping though!!!
-
Very Active Member
The "buzz" type of noise is due to the hole size, quantity and pattern of drilling on the rotors. Not a detriment or defect in any way.... You should have heard the BrakeTech rotors "sing" on my Ducati! They were awesome!
btt-31.kc.sm.jpg
'15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
'15 Mclaren 650S Coupe - Aurora Blue
"You Were Really Flyin', When I Passed You Back There!"
Chuck
2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
-
Very Active Member
The procedure in the service manual states you need to have the brake system checked and bled using BUDS, which means having the dealer check it. Not sure what the reason is but I suspect it has something to do with making sure the ABS system is properly calibrated with Nanny. Remember, in hard cornering or in case of wheel slip Nanny can set the brakes, one at a time. They are electronically controlled in addition to the pedal push. I say don't take a chance on the system not being properly tuned by skipping the BUDS check.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
-
Very Active Member
If one bleeds the brake system without using B.U.D.S. one cannot get fresh fluid into the ABS module. I do not remember seeing anything in my Green Manual about using B.U.D.S. after simply replacing the pads but do not have access to it right now.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JayBros
If one bleeds the brake system without using B.U.D.S. one cannot get fresh fluid into the ABS module. I do not remember seeing anything in my Green Manual about using B.U.D.S. after simply replacing the pads but do not have access to it right now.
You are correct.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
-
Originally Posted by Fatcycledaddy
I think I know what you are talking about. It is not a squeal like they need to be seated, but almost like a buzz, not loud but there. I told my wife the cicadas are out every time I hit the brakes, thousands of miles later mine are still doing it.
Wouldn't trade those pads for any others for stopping though!!!
That is the exact noise I am hearing
2015 Can Am Spyder RT Limited
Magic Mirrors
Short Antenna
LaMonster Dual Power Plate
LED Headlights
LED Fog lights
Vibration Damper
Spyclops
Spyclops II
Utopia Back Rest
-
Very Active Member
That sound is the holes in the discs as they pass under the pads.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
-
Wow. I just got the brake pads from BajaRon. I had no idea anything had to be done to them before mounting. I am lucky to get someone to put them on. He is not going to do all of that. Sigh. Stuck now
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Shortcut
Wow. I just got the brake pads from BajaRon. I had no idea anything had to be done to them before mounting. I am lucky to get someone to put them on. He is not going to do all of that. Sigh. Stuck now
Some things in my EBC tip sheet are required. But many are optional.
No mater what rotor you get, you need to be sure to remove the thin film of oil left from machining. This is easily done and should not be a problem for anyone. But it must be done before the brakes are mounted. If you run your new pads on oiled rotors. The pads will soak up the oil and that is not good.
Beveling the leading edge, making a diagonal cut across the pad material and using Disk Brake Quiet are all good ideas designed to reduce the possibility of brake squeal. But certainly not necessary. Especially if you don't mind the squeal! The great majority get no squeal without doing these things. But you don't know if you will or you won't until you're all done. Then you might wish you had gone to the extra trouble when you had the system apart. Of course you can always take the brakes off again and do it then.
The 'Bedding In' process is simply designed to bring your braking system up to 100% capability in a short period of time. Racers also use these pads and they can't afford to ride around for hundreds of miles to get maximum braking. They need 100% for the next race. Hence the 'Bedding In' procedure. Another benefit of doing this is that you find out what you can expect from your Spyder in an emergency stop situation.
Some will tell you to sand the face of the pad. This is not good advice and will simply increase the time needed for bedding in to occur and reduce brake function for a longer period of time. Not to mention you will lose braking material which means you will be replacing the pads sooner.
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-03-2019 at 06:25 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|