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Registered Users
Cooling Fan Manual Override Switch
Well as I indicated in a previous post I intended to install a manual override switch for the cooling fan. Well this morning I finished the mod. Basically what I did was take a 12 volt source through a fuse (15A) and switch (25 amp rated) to the 12 volt power line to the cooling fan AFTER the fan relay.
I installed my fan switch in the dash and connected my fused and switch power line to the fan power line via a posi-tap connector. prior to actually making the connection and based on previous postings about mixed up BRP wiring I verified that the fan wire I was going to tap into was actually the power side and not the ground side. All wiring was placed within wire protectors and all ends were soldered and heat shrink wrapped.
After the installation I ran a 2 part test to verify proper operation. I started the bike and immediately and successfully turned the fan on with my new override switch. I then shut the fan off and let the bike warm up until the computer switched the fan on. With the fan running by way of the control signal from the computer and then turned my fan override switch on. The fan kept running and there were no complaints from the computer.
Attached you will find various pictures of the process. I apologize for the quality of the picture showing where the posi-tap is connected.
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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Mod Maniac
Good job! Neat installation. Love those Posi-Taps and Locks!
.
ata = allergic to asphalt
My mods: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ead.php?t=5753
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There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009
My Spyder:
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Very Active Member
Nice job - makes it very simple. I was worried about any isolation problems or loop-back problems, but it sounds like keeping it simple worked well in this instance.
So it IS the positive that is switched - good thing to know.
Any tests to see if you're running cooler with it on?
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Registered Users
I did do one further test. I started the bike up and turned the fan on. I let the bike idle until I reached 5 bars when the fan would normally turn on. I will tell you it took a heck of a long time before I reached 5 bars. I will be taking it for a longer ride later this week during which time I will "play" with it for a bit. My original plan was to turn the fan on when I hit 4 bars and I was in stop and go traffic to perhaps delay when the computer would turn the fan on or at the very least slow down the "quick" heating as a result of not moving much. I am not sure I really want to use it at 4 bars all the time. Like some I believe that the Rotax works much better hot. So in essence my reasons for installing the override switch was not to allow it to run cooler but to delay and hopefully eliminate the nasty Limp mode if and when it does overheat.
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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Registered Users
A couple of days riding with the mod and not one complaint from the computer. The bike does obviously run cooler with the fan running. Still trying to find a good balance between when to let the bike run hotter and when to turn the fan on manually. Unfortunately I have not had the luxury of riding in stop and go traffic in the extreme heat...it has been raining off and on for the last few days !
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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Very Active Member
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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Registered Users
Happy Owner
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Very Active Member
AWESOME!! I was thinking of doing the same thing... now you've eliminated the guess work! Nice DIY!
We are a happy THREE Spyder family! My Rides: 2008 Quantum Blue Premier Edition Spyder GS SM5 (#1344)
2015 Pearl White / Red Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6
2016 Intense Pearl Red Can-Am Spyder F3-T SE6
2019 Chevrolet Volt (ER-EV)
2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport X 4.0L I-6
RETIRED Owner / Event Coordinator - Annual Western Regional Can-Am Spyder Rallies
Spyders in the Redwoods and Red Rock Spyder Rally of Southern Utah
The West Coast's Can-Am Spyder Community Ambassador
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by rleathen
A couple of days riding with the mod and not one complaint from the computer. The bike does obviously run cooler with the fan running. Still trying to find a good balance between when to let the bike run hotter and when to turn the fan on manually. Unfortunately I have not had the luxury of riding in stop and go traffic in the extreme heat...it has been raining off and on for the last few days !
My thought is that a temperature sensor (preferably adjustable) and a relay would be easier to deal with than a manual switch. I can see how it would be quite difficult to know when to manually turn on the fan switch before you got hot. In stop and go I would just switch it on and let the thermostat control the temp, I think. Of course the easiest thing would be for BRP to make the thing adjustable or just lower the operating temperature, through a BUDS update. Wishful thinking........
-Scotty
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Very Active Member
Anyone see a problem just leaving the fan on all the time? I doubt you could cool things down too much with that fan.
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Registered Users
Well had a chance to take the bike out for quite a long ride and played with the fan override switch. It works like a charm in keeping the bike at about 4 bars in stop and go traffic. I would not suggest keeping the fan running all the time, not because of some technical reason but more of a personal comfort reason. Leaving the fan on all the time will cause warm air from the radiator to be blown on your right foot ALL THE TIME and not just when the computer would normally turn the fan on.
Other then this minor issue I think this mod is a keeper !!!
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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I just did the same thing as "rleathen", except that I soldered the connection at the fan without disturbing the OEM wire.
I had previously planned on doing something like this on Spyder #1, but I didn't get it done before the fire. Now Spyder #2 benefits from this thread and the many contributions to my previous thread on this subject and all of the thinking which has preceded what in the end was a very simple job.
I intend to use my fan switch only very rarely. It will be used in heavy traffic where I am moving very slowly, and in stop and go situations. It will not be used in normal traffic situations either on the highway, or in town.
I have not used the fan switch yet, but there is something comforting about knowing I can use it. The downside is the fan blows serious hot air on my leg.
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Registered Users
just had my first...
over temp yesterday afternoon at 6:30 pm here in Florida. Ambient temperature was 91 and humidity 90 percent... I had to relearn the breast stroke just to be outside around here the air is so wet. I was adjusting the drive belt with short rides after each tweak. I zipped about a mile up the road and stopped to check the belt alignment. Took all of 45 seconds to check sliding back on the seat. Belt ok... slide forward on the seat... temperature not ok... Temp gauge all bars lit up... limp mode en-gauged. I checked the fuse, made sure fan relay in tight and looked at coolant reservior. All were normal... oh also checked to make sure the coolant tank cap was on tight. Everything as it should be except for the temp gauge still all bars lit.
Just pulled the relay for testing. Will know more in a few minutes.
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Registered User
Originally Posted by krb1945
over temp yesterday afternoon at 6:30 pm here in Florida. Ambient temperature was 91 and humidity 90 percent... I had to relearn the breast stroke just to be outside around here the air is so wet. I was adjusting the drive belt with short rides after each tweak. I zipped about a mile up the road and stopped to check the belt alignment. Took all of 45 seconds to check sliding back on the seat. Belt ok... slide forward on the seat... temperature not ok... Temp gauge all bars lit up... limp mode en-gauged. I checked the fuse, made sure fan relay in tight and looked at coolant reservior. All were normal... oh also checked to make sure the coolant tank cap was on tight. Everything as it should be except for the temp gauge still all bars lit.
Just pulled the relay for testing. Will know more in a few minutes.
At that temp fan should have been full on, was it?
If not, and more than five bars were lit my bet is on a bad relay.
MM
MM
[URL="http://www.esicycleproducts.com/"]
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Registered Users
Just did the test...
Here it is 4:54 am and I'm doing test on this spyder. A bad relay at just 2250 miles. BRP must have gotten a big batch of defective relays during 08 building year.
I have a duralast as a spare but I would like to have the R3110... better and more durable. But here in the Keystone Heights are they are real proud of them. $30.00 for this $9.00 relay.
Well off to do some hunting on the net.
Folks... have a super morning!
Ken krb1945 "Happy Owner"
USN DAV 100% 'er
Proud grandfather of a former United States Marine
1 2008 SM5 PE 548
1 2008 SM5, 1 2009 SE5
2008 GL1800
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by Magic Man
At that temp fan should have been full on, was it?
If not, and more than five bars were lit my bet is on a bad relay.
MM
MM
+1
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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Is there room for a marine bilge blower?That is an idea I saw somewhere.$22 cylinder with a lot of force.It could be ducted away from body parts and make a big diff.What do you think?
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I think I will try the fan Switch mod, sounds good to me!
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Registered Users
I have had zero problems with it since I installed it !! Go for it for that added piece of mind !
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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Just wondering, Will the fan running constantly at low rpm's pull too much juice from the battery? The Spyder has an magneto not an alternator. The engine has to run at a set temp. That's the job of the thermostat. If its over heating some thing else is going on.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by boborgera
Just wondering, Will the fan running constantly at low rpm's pull too much juice from the battery? The Spyder has an magneto not an alternator. The engine has to run at a set temp. That's the job of the thermostat. If its over heating some thing else is going on.
I have a Kuryakyn LED battery gauge on my bike and have never seen it drop below 12 volts when the bike has been idling, the fan running AND my aftermarket driving lights on.
HAPPY 2008 SE5 OWNER 1" BRP Riser, NMN 3" risers, NMN Triple Play & Tail Light, Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions, Evoluzione Powerbus, BRP 23" Touring Windshield on CHAD Bracket, Ride-On in tires, J&M Integrator, Gerbings Dual Zone Temp Controller & Heated Gloves, 2 Dash Mounted 12V outlets, Kewlmetal Highway Brackets & Kuryakyn pegs, Trunk Spring Mod, Vista Cruise Throttle Lock, Kuyrakyn L.E.D. Battery Guage
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Originally Posted by rleathen
I have a Kuryakyn LED battery gauge on my bike and have never seen it drop below 12 volts when the bike has been idling, the fan running AND my aftermarket driving lights on.
At 12 volts the battery is not taken a charge, At ilde with my fog light's on [55w.] 13.40v= fog light's off at ilde 13.90v. Some times when the Spyder's battery is momentary low funny things will happen with the on board computer. Just my finding's, it's not gospel.
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by boborgera
Just wondering, Will the fan running constantly at low rpm's pull too much juice from the battery? The Spyder has an magneto not an alternator. The engine has to run at a set temp. That's the job of the thermostat. If its over heating some thing else is going on.
The engine thermostat is operating properly. The issue is that when the Spyder temps get up over the thermostat opening temp, sometimes the fan has a hard time bringing it back down. The solution for some people is to turn the fan on sooner, not allowing the temps to get high in the first place. The Spyder still runs at the proper operating temperature while not climbing too high, too soon. Changing the fan control (thermostat) is more expensive than just adding an auxiliary "fan on" switch.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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Originally Posted by bjt
The engine thermostat is operating properly. The issue is that when the Spyder temps get up over the thermostat opening temp, sometimes the fan has a hard time bringing it back down. The solution for some people is to turn the fan on sooner, not allowing the temps to get high in the first place. The Spyder still runs at the proper operating temperature while not climbing too high, too soon. Changing the fan control (thermostat) is more expensive than just adding an auxiliary "fan on" switch.
I guess i understand?? I'm so used to last two bike's running hot [SV650/VTX1800] That the Spyder seem's mild by comparison.
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Active Member
The switch is a good idea but now as a rider you have to constantly monitor engine temps and remember to switch the fan on. You can buy the programable SPAL fan controller. I set mine to come on at 195* and to full ramp buy 210*. This is more expensive then a switch but it is a set it and forget option. My wife rides the can-am and this is the carefree way.
2008 SM5 Yellow, built 5/08 Mods: Evoluzione CAI, and Programable SPAL Fan. Two Brothers Juice Box, Hindle Exhaust. Custom Dynamics Lighting and Mono seat Cowl.
2012 RSS SM5 Red/Black Mods Two Brothers Carbon Fiber Exhaust Dynojet Power Commander JT's Custom Air Filter.
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