Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Member Fire252fighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    4
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default F3 new hole between position 3 + 4

    I have read a bunch of different fixes for break pedal height adjustment. Considered buying new rod or moding the original. I’m considering drilling a new hole in the frame between 3+4 and using stock position 3 rod has anyone done this? I have taken it apart and mocked it up in that location and seems for me that it will put the pedal where I want it and should still allow for full travel.
    For reference this is my first bike of any kind however I am mechanically inclined. I have put around 200 miles on it as is and my only complaint is this and the shifter thinking of doing the same to both. At 6’2 recommendations to move to position 5 was given however I feel comfortable where I am just having trouble covering the break when needed as I have to point my toe all the way up to do so. So I find myself not covering the break as I should out of comfort.

    2015 f3 sm6
    2015 F3-s , Silver/orange

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    5,545
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Lamonster garage has a replacement rod that will lower your brake pedal height. Quality part.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  3. #3
    Active Member LifeLongRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    294
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I'm using position 4 but the OEM brake rod (to put it plainly) sucked. I installed the Lamonster brake rod for positon 4 which lowered the pedal and put it into a position which is super comfortable for my right foot to reach. Great accessory and cheap too! Two hoots to Lamont . . great job . . .
    2019 F3 Limited
    2019 F3 Limited , Oxford Blue

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    4,561
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I made my own rod to drop the brake pedal, cost about $10.
    2016 F3 Limited
    2019 Ryker Rally
    2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
    2020 CSC TT 250
    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

  5. #5
    Very Active Member JP58's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    La Valle, WI
    Posts
    1,124
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    To answer your question. Yes you could drill a hole in between 3 and 4 which would give you the right height your looking for. That said. If your happy where it is now it would be much simpler to install Lamonsters brake rod. 5 minutes max. It's only 60 bucks.
    2018 F3 Limited , Oxford Blue

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    13,031
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Another reason why I prefer my SM-6 and pegs. They never raised the pedal on the SM like they had to for the floorboards on the SE-6

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Gwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Florida Swamp
    Posts
    1,935
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.
    2019 F3-S , Black & Silver

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Harrington, Australia
    Posts
    4,144
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.
    That would be position 5, with a position 5 rod, Gwolf. It’s great that that works for you. It sure doesn’t work for me with a 38” inleg . That’s the problem. We are all such different shapes and sizes, with differing limitations, that comfortable positioning for one rider can be as uncomfortable as all get out for another

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Girard OH (summer) Greenville SC (winter)
    Posts
    877
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    I made my own rod to drop the brake pedal, cost about $10.
    Details?? When I get back to Ohio i'm going to cut the original rod and see if one can tap and insert all thread into it to make it infinitely adjustable.

    For now I have just drilled an extra hole in the forward postition rod which works well to lower it.

    http://www.rattlebars.com/spyder/spyder.html

    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  10. #10
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    2,735
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I tried the extra hole idea and the pedal was still too high for me. So I cut an inch out of the center of the rod drilled through a 3/8 X 6" pipe nipple with a 1/2" bit. I had already cut off the threaded ends of the nipple. Ground down the rod ends until there was a slip fit. Drilled through the nipple and rod and inserted 1/8" tension pins. Slipped other piece of rod into nipple / coupler and put it on the bike. Set the pedal where I wanted it, and marked the unpinned rod. Then drilled and pinned it with a couple tension pins. Painted it with flat black. Looks factory. Cost = $2.00 and a lot less work than threading - I thought about that and passed om it.
    BRAKE ROD MOD.jpg
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  11. #11
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Greenville Tx
    Posts
    2,470
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    If you are 6'2", you need to go to position 5. I would not buy the Lamonster rod yet though. They are having the length corrected on #5 and the next batch will be the correct length. While I wait for the correct rod, I did drill a second hole in the BRP rod like post#9 above and it works good for now.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  12. #12
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Greenville Tx
    Posts
    2,470
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    My wife uses a #4 rod and she is 5'9". Im 6'2" 34" inseam and use a #5.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  13. #13
    Member Fire252fighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    4
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I appreciate all the comments and I am aware of the products like the rods from lamonster. For me it’s not about the money as much as seeing if it would work and doing it myself. After playing with positions with the stock #3 rod I decided to try it out.

    I can say that without a doubt it is possible. I drilled a new hole in the frame same place as the rest directly between 3 and 4. Put my break pedal right where I wanted it and works great. I will say that my dad has no problem where it was and after moving it could still operate it but felt the pedal was too far forward to start. He’s 5’9” I’m 6’2.
    2015 F3-s , Silver/orange

  14. #14
    Member Fire252fighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    4
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I moved the pegs to the 5 position and at the current point in time I don’t like it I’m not going to say that I wouldn’t ever do it. The reason I like them near 3-4 is I feel more planted of my feet for body roll in the corners. Could be a number of reasons 1 this is the first thing I have ever rode without 4 wheels and doors. 2 and this is observations from my father. I tend to take winding roads faster than he would think to... blames it on not growing up yet (34). For cruising on long rides I think position 5 would be very comfortable but Im not ready to give up the stability in the corners yet. I’m new to all of this so everything is subject to change... thanks
    2015 F3-s , Silver/orange

  15. #15
    Member Fire252fighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Posts
    4
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Well it only took a month of riding to decide to make a change. I ordered and installed position 5 rods. Should have listed and done this from the start, I love it. I will most likely be drilling a new hole in the rod to move the brake pedal forward more but it is much better that stock position 3. Posting this more for if any other newbies come across this. If you are tall don’t hesitate spend the 50 and make the change defiantly worth it.
    2015 F3-s , Silver/orange

  16. #16
    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    2,735
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I did my own brake rod modification and posted it, but nobody liked it even though it cost under $3. I guess y'all think that's too cheap.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
    2017 F3 Limited , Red, Black & Chrome

  17. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    central Texas
    Posts
    5
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RICZ View Post
    I did my own brake rod modification and posted it, but nobody liked it even though it cost under $3. I guess y'all think that's too cheap.
    You did a great mod.but remember most people would never be able to do that mod.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Girard OH (summer) Greenville SC (winter)
    Posts
    877
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I looked at the lamonster rod on the video and noticed the forked section of the rod is much longer in the front which would allow more fine tuning with the drill method shown here because you would be able to drill more than one new hole in the fork.

    brake-rod.jpg
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •