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  1. #1
    Member Fire252fighter's Avatar
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    Default F3 new hole between position 3 + 4

    I have read a bunch of different fixes for break pedal height adjustment. Considered buying new rod or moding the original. Iím considering drilling a new hole in the frame between 3+4 and using stock position 3 rod has anyone done this? I have taken it apart and mocked it up in that location and seems for me that it will put the pedal where I want it and should still allow for full travel.
    For reference this is my first bike of any kind however I am mechanically inclined. I have put around 200 miles on it as is and my only complaint is this and the shifter thinking of doing the same to both. At 6í2 recommendations to move to position 5 was given however I feel comfortable where I am just having trouble covering the break when needed as I have to point my toe all the way up to do so. So I find myself not covering the break as I should out of comfort.

    2015 f3 sm6

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Lamonster garage has a replacement rod that will lower your brake pedal height. Quality part.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  3. #3
    Active Member LifeLongRider's Avatar
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    I'm using position 4 but the OEM brake rod (to put it plainly) sucked. I installed the Lamonster brake rod for positon 4 which lowered the pedal and put it into a position which is super comfortable for my right foot to reach. Great accessory and cheap too! Two hoots to Lamont . . great job . . .

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I made my own rod to drop the brake pedal, cost about $10.
    2012 RT Limited (Traded)
    2016 F3 Limited
    2010 Vulcan Voyager
    2014 Suzuki V Strom 650

  5. #5
    Very Active Member JP58's Avatar
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    To answer your question. Yes you could drill a hole in between 3 and 4 which would give you the right height your looking for. That said. If your happy where it is now it would be much simpler to install Lamonsters brake rod. 5 minutes max. It's only 60 bucks.

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SpyderAnn01's Avatar
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    Another reason why I prefer my SM-6 and pegs. They never raised the pedal on the SM like they had to for the floorboards on the SE-6

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  7. #7
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    I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwolf View Post
    I have no idea what position number it is in, but the peg is in last hole it can go in forward. The brake pedal is about 45 degrees which is just right. It has the longest stock rod they make. Don't have any rods or pegs on the left side. Don't have a left foot.
    That would be position 5, with a position 5 rod, Gwolf. It’s great that that works for you. It sure doesn’t work for me with a 38” inleg . That’s the problem. We are all such different shapes and sizes, with differing limitations, that comfortable positioning for one rider can be as uncomfortable as all get out for another

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2016 F3 Limited - Setup for Tall.... 6'7", 330lbs, 38"inleg.
    Lamonster RIP Boards in Position#5
    F4 25" F3-L screen fitted to Madstad adjustable hardware.
    Russell Daylong custom seat with driver 1.5" rearset, 1.5" taller
    Lamonster Billy Club handlebars
    ECU Xtreme Stage 2 retune
    Bajaron Stabiliser Bar
    Wilber 630/640 shocks
    Kuhmo KH17 175/60 fronts-18psi / KU22 205/55 rear-20psi

  9. #9
    Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    I made my own rod to drop the brake pedal, cost about $10.
    Details?? When I get back to Ohio i'm going to cut the original rod and see if one can tap and insert all thread into it to make it infinitely adjustable.

    For now I have just drilled an extra hole in the forward postition rod which works well to lower it.

    >CLICK ME<


  10. #10
    Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    I tried the extra hole idea and the pedal was still too high for me. So I cut an inch out of the center of the rod drilled through a 3/8 X 6" pipe nipple with a 1/2" bit. I had already cut off the threaded ends of the nipple. Ground down the rod ends until there was a slip fit. Drilled through the nipple and rod and inserted 1/8" tension pins. Slipped other piece of rod into nipple / coupler and put it on the bike. Set the pedal where I wanted it, and marked the unpinned rod. Then drilled and pinned it with a couple tension pins. Painted it with flat black. Looks factory. Cost = $2.00 and a lot less work than threading - I thought about that and passed om it.
    BRAKE ROD MOD.jpg
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    If you are 6'2", you need to go to position 5. I would not buy the Lamonster rod yet though. They are having the length corrected on #5 and the next batch will be the correct length. While I wait for the correct rod, I did drill a second hole in the BRP rod like post#9 above and it works good for now.
    2017 F3 Limited

  12. #12
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    My wife uses a #4 rod and she is 5'9". Im 6'2" 34" inseam and use a #5.
    2017 F3 Limited

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