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Thread: Brake pads

  1. #1
    Active Member deer30084's Avatar
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    Default Brake pads

    Has anyone changed out their own brake pads? I have just over 13000 miles on my 2015 F3. I looked at the front pads and I am not sure if they need changing, but they look close. I think I am going to tackle the job myself. Any comments would be appreciated.
    John F.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Little checking.....

    My fronts have 40,000 miles on them. Check the spec's min as they do look thin but are within the spec's. Many have done their own and there are helpful posts to the effect. You can search here, google or youtube as well for help..
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    It is a very easy job if you have the tools and supplies. The pad service limit is 1 mm. If you remove the calipers, which I did to clean everything thoroughly, be sure to apply Blue Loctite to the bolts before reinstalling the calipers, torque to 50 lbft. I prefer the 248 Chapstik tube, PN 37684, type as opposed to liquid. Bajaron has EBC fully sintered pads that will give you superior braking power over OEM pads and they come with excellent, very precise instructions.

    Here's a pretty good video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRWHsNfUgD0
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    Very Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    The thinner the pad, the less efficient they are. I replace at half way. Cheap life insurance.
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Thank you Finless

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    Active Member deer30084's Avatar
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    JayBros and Bfromia: Very good videos. Thanks for posting.
    John F.
    Tallahassee, FL

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deer30084 View Post
    JayBros and Bfromia: Very good videos. Thanks for posting.
    What hasn't been mentioned ….. BRP uses brake Pads with thin lines cut into them they. are WEAR indicators ….They run vertically … if you can see them you have at least 2,000 mi. left on the pad ….. Rons' EBC pads dont' have lines ….. so I cut them in with my router and a very small bit …… Mike

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    What hasn't been mentioned ….. BRP uses brake Pads with thin lines cut into them they. are WEAR indicators ….They run vertically … if you can see them you have at least 2,000 mi. left on the pad ….. Rons' EBC pads dont' have lines ….. so I cut them in with my router and a very small bit …… Mike
    Ron's instructions are pretty explicit about cutting the grooves in the pads as well as slightly beveling the leading and trailing edges to ensure quiet pads. Being router poor I used an 18T hacksaw blade to cut mine and used a fresh blade for each pair of pads.
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    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    What hasn't been mentioned ….. BRP uses brake Pads with thin lines cut into them they. are WEAR indicators ….They run vertically … if you can see them you have at least 2,000 mi. left on the pad ….. Rons' EBC pads dont' have lines ….. so I cut them in with my router and a very small bit …… Mike
    The 'Lines' also help to wipe the rotor, sweeping the brake dust away. Brake dust buildup can contribute to brake noise. Angled lines are supposed to do a better job than straight lines. But I can't vouch for that. Lines also help to wipe water from the rotor. But disk brakes don't really have much problem with water to start with. Nothing like the old drum brakes.
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    Very Active Member trikermutha's Avatar
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    Unless you do a lot of stop and go driving I suspect you should be good for another season.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    I also have a 2015 F3. I just checked my front pads at 37,506 miles and they are still good. My rear pads had to be replaced at 28,000 miles.
    I would be surprised if your pads at only 13,000 miles need replacement.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

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    Anyone have trouble getting caliper piston to push back far enough?

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unclechief View Post
    Anyone have trouble getting caliper piston to push back far enough?
    I have the new style Brembo's on my 2014RT ….. the rear were a B*tch ( the type that needs turning ) ….. the front were very easy ( they are the compression type ) …… jmho …. Mike

  14. #14
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unclechief View Post
    Anyone have trouble getting caliper piston to push back far enough?
    Here is my trick:
    Remove the bolts holding the caliper to its mount. Cover the end with a thick rag, and rotate the caliper up, pressing firmly against the muffler. Have a helper hold it. Now, take a 6” needlenose pliers, put the tips in the divots on the piston, push and turn clockwise. It will go in flush. Not nearly flush, almost flush, sorta flush. FLUSH! Then put it back together.
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    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unclechief View Post
    Anyone have trouble getting caliper piston to push back far enough?
    Like CPTJam described, and before I push and rotate, with the old pads out I like to clean the caliper a bit with a pan and papers below, I spray with Simplegreen, Purple Power, soapy water, windex or whatever and use a small brush, old toothbrush to dab and scrub some of the gunk loose around the piston and caliper area...with the dirt flushed out and a little water lube, the piston seems to glide back in much easier. YMMV
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