Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Mattapoisett, Mass
    Posts
    15
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default 1330 oil drain plug

    The 1330 oil drain plug has an extended shank for o rings between the plug and gasket sealing surface and the threads. Other than providing additional sealing for the oil drain plug do the o rings have any other purpose as sealing an oil passage or routing some oil? Or could the proper length/size drain plug with out o rings be used.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,937
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    The 1330 has a dry sump oil system with the oil tank and crankcase internal to the block. The plug goes through both the crankcase and into the sump. Pulling the plug drains both. The o-rings seal one from the other. Installing a plug with no o ring will cause oil to drain back from the sump to the crankcase and overwhelm the evacuation pump.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Fort Mill, SC
    Posts
    1,328
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    BRP went through a lot of trouble designing and building that fancy plug. My advice is to use it and change the O rings regularly
    2011 RTS
    1998 Honda Valkyrie
    US Navy Veteran
    CNC Machine Service Technician
    Vice President: Rolling Thunder SC1
    Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
    Member: American Legion
    Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Diego, CA.
    Posts
    30,317
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default See above....

    Treat it kindly and don't overtighten as that plug with o-rings runs about $40.00 and probably more at the dealer. Some things are best left alone and this would be one of them. O-rings and crush washer run about $6.00.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    12,264
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Treat it kindly and don't overtighten as that plug with o-rings runs about $40.00 and probably more at the dealer. Some things are best left alone and this would be one of them. O-rings and crush washer run about $6.00.
    Gene I'm 99.99% sure the plug is Stainless Steel , I would worry about the Aluminum case it threads into as the thing that will get damaged ….. and yes I have heard of DIMPLE brand plugs breaking at the threaded section ….. but I'm pretty sure the thin walls caused that …… jmho ….. Mike

  6. #6
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,258
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Gene I'm 99.99% sure the plug is Stainless Steel , I would worry about the Aluminum case it threads into as the thing that will get damaged ….. and yes I have heard of DIMPLE brand plugs breaking at the threaded section ….. but I'm pretty sure the thin walls caused that …… jmho ….. Mike
    I don't think it is SS. Stainless steel and aluminum don't play well together. You can readily get severe galvanic corrosion in the aluminum that is in contact with stainless steel. I'm sure BRP engineers wouldn't make that mistake. More likely the plugs are corrosion resistant treated steel.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Mattapoisett, Mass
    Posts
    15
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks jcthorne. The exact information I was looking for., And all who responded. I wasn't concerned about the costs of the o rings. After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    6,258
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CBXBob View Post
    After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.
    You sure you're using the right wrench? One of the drain plugs is Torx, the other is hex.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    12,264
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CBXBob View Post
    Thanks jcthorne. The exact information I was looking for., And all who responded. I wasn't concerned about the costs of the o rings. After several different dealer oil changes, on the road, I discovered the T45 Torx is " worn " when I did the last oil change.
    .... The " Hex " plug has a much deeper cavity / hole, than the torx ….. and it holds the tool better …. I only changed the Torx to a Hex Head plug ( Gold brand ) …… something I learned years ago from a mechanic was to set your Ratchet to loosen / remove prior to using it ….. because the oil procedure is generally done up-side down, it's easy to get it wrong and mis-takenly TIGHTEN instead of loosen …. with tragic results ….. Mike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •