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Thread: Park brake

  1. #1
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    Default Park brake

    I have a 2017 SE6, itís in the shop because the park brake wouldnít release. From what Iíve read on here, thatís a problem that RTs have. No telling when Iíll get it back, I took it in last Tuesday, so itís been over a week now, and I just called today and they said it would be next week before they got a chance to look at it. Itís intermittent, so hopefully itís still doing it when they do get to look at it. My question is, has anyone ever modified anything, so it isnít needed ? If I had a manual I would just lease it in gear and not use it. Why couldnít you make some sorta way to use the foot brake and lock it down to hold the bike ? Iíd think that would work someway or another. Once they say they have it fixed, thereís no guarantee they do, or it wonít happen again. I can just see being 300 miles away, and it does it again. Whatís everyoneís thought on trying to get something like that to work ? Thanks, sorry so long, I wanna ride again someday

  2. #2
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
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    your's is a cautionary tale. I know there is a way to release a cable or something to take the
    parking brake off line, and I better learn how to do it, before this issue crops up with me.
    Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
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    my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)

  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Keep 2 12mm open end wrenches in the bike, along with small wheel chocks. Under the muffler on the wheel is a cable that goes to the caliper. Loosen the nuts that hold the cable, remove cable from caliper, bike is free. Use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
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    Active Member Chasinsparks's Avatar
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    I had the same thing happen to me. It was intermittent at first and after fiddling with the switch it would release, and then it left me in parking lot and would not release, did as explained above and rode for a week just chalking the tires while waiting to take it to the dealer. Switch was replaced no further problems.
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  5. #5
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    I released the cable so I could move it and ride it to fixit shop. Guess beanst it happened once, Ima little gun shy. Thanks

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    The problem is going to most likely be one of two things, the switch or the parking brake motor. If it's intermittent I'd cast my vote for the switch. I would not paint too many RTs with a big brush that gets the whole model line; most DO NOT have the problem. I had my parking brake motor replaced under warranty because it would not hold once set. Follow Joe Meyer's instructions until the dealer finds the cause of the problem. Yes, you could do the simplest modification if you wanted to remove a few body panels, remove the brake cable and use a wheel chock, IMO a less than brilliant idea.
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    Active Member Valkrocket's Avatar
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    Just had this happen to my 18 RTL with 700 miles on it during Bike week here in Myrtle Beach. I was parked off the main drag(rt. 17) shooting the breeze with a friend. Hopped on Gracie and pushed the brake button. The red brake light on the dash stared flashing and she put a death grip on the rear wheel. Turned the ignition on and off several times to no avail. Checked for a fault code and got 3 of them listed. P0571, P1571 and U0128.(BTW, couldn't find any of these in my downloaded service manual) Couldn't move her. I called my dealer and spoke to service and they admitted there was a history of the right switch cluster failing. They could not come out to me at this time, but they told me a way to free the rear wheel by using a procedure similar to cptjam above. I checked the OEM tool kit for the 12mm wrenches. NOT! they don't include any in our kit. Luckily a guy stopped by while I was under her(damn that pavement was hot) and had an adjustable wrench(hate using them, but any port in a storm). The brake is located on the muffler side, can't miss it (2) 12mm nuts on a cable mounted on a steel bracket. Loosen the front nut first, then the cable mechanism will slide off the holding bracket. Bingo instant unfreeze. The red light stopped flashing and I road her without an e-brake the rest of the day parking her on level ground. (Shop said it was OK to do this, would not harm the bike or void the warranty). Long story short, got her in my home garage and slid the cable back on the bracket. adjusted and tightened both nuts lightly and she's working again. The fault codes have also disappeared from the dash. Not sure if it was a needed cable adjustment or a faulty switch/button, only time will tell) I'm still gonna bring her to the dealer next week...…………... no guarantees it won't happen again. Oh, and I now have (2) 12mm wrenched added to my tool kit.
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    Active Member Valkrocket's Avatar
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    Correction......meant to say Left switch cluster not right.
    GLIDE-ON>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


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    Very Active Member oldguyinCT's Avatar
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    I have the same problem. Was going to ride the Spyder to work today, and bingo, parking brake would not release. Now my question is, since the brake won't release, how the heck am I going to get it out of my garage and up onto a flatbed to have it taken to a dealer? I guess I could try the method that cptjam suggested, but fear I would get into a warranty hassle with BRP. After all the troubles that I had with my 2013 RTL, I'm getting a bad feeling. BTW, no codes.
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    Check post #3 and #7.
    Eckhard

    Spyder RT Ltd, 2011

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    I posted before on this subject because it has been an issue from time to time for myself, and a bit more exclamation is in order. First of all, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put your foot on the brake pedal whenever you DO ANYTHING !!!! I can't begin to say why, but it seems to make a difference and keep the brake lock deal at bay. This routine has worked for me a couple of times, when the brake locks up, turn OFF the key and let the warning beeper do it's thing which takes about 15 seconds and it will stop, then turn the key back on and do the start process and remember to keep your foot on the brake pedal. This has worked for me before, and now I ALWAYS keep my foot on the brake pedal which does the trick, mostly.... If your having the issue consistently, take it to the shop and wait. BTW, there are no error codes which come up with this brake issue????

  12. #12
    Active Member ssmcclub's Avatar
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    Ok It happen to me today on my 2019 f3s special series with 412 miles on it, good advise to Carrie 2 12mm open ends ,work like a charm will go to dealer tomorrow and make a appointment to have it fixed. the manual brake worked great on my 2014 rss, why fix what is not broken
    richie spyder

  13. #13
    Active Member Valkrocket's Avatar
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    Yes, fault codes P0571, P1571 and U0128. all of which I couldn't find in my service manual. disappeared after I released and reset my brake cable.
    GLIDE-ON>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


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    I heard back from mechanic today. He said yesterday, the park brake release worked every time he tried it. This morning it worked fine, turned off RT, got lift set so they could put it on, and hook up buds, it wouldn’t release. Got it on lift, hooked up buds, he said it had so many codes, he’d never saw that many before. He said it seemed like only half the modules on motorcycle was throwing bad codes, and the others weren’t even working. Said he had called Can am, and was waiting to see what they said. He wondered if I had ever seen any codes pop up, I never had. Told him I did notice last summer right after I bought it, the park brake acted up just a little bit, and windshield didn’t go up or down. That went away after about a couple days, until park brake messed up this time. Does anyone have any ideas on here ? Do you think I should contact Can am, or wait and see what happens ? Thanks for all the help

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    There's a new dealer in the NoVA area and I needed a new rear tire so I tried it out yesterday. Just being a tire change I suspect they gave the job to the shop mop.(junior man) Two hours later the service writer tells me my rear brake pads are very worn and I go take a look. OK put in some new ones. Taking much longer than expected I take a look into the shop. The tech. is stomping away on my brake. They tell me the parking brake is now stuck and they can't get it off the lift. Two more hours and they suspect it's the parking brake sensor. "We replace a lot of these" Well after more than six hours I have a new tire, pads and sensor.

    I will now carry two 12mm wrenches with me all the time. I will never go back to that dealer. Oh, my warranty expired, last month.

  16. #16
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    Default Park brake

    Ok, shop said computers not communicating with modules. BRP approved starting with left hand housing switch as possible fix. What and where is this ? Does it have anything to do with park brake ? Thanks
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-20-2019 at 07:09 PM. Reason: Merged new thread into the rest of discussion on this problem

  17. #17
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    The Left hand Housing is that left side hand-grip/switch gear, the one with the light hi-lo-flash button, the Eco/mode button etc..... There have been a fair few 'failed' L/Hand units, and if they go it can cause all sorts of problems for the Spyder. So it's probably a good place to start!

    Thinking about this a bit more, where's your Park Brake switch, Marr?
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-20-2019 at 08:27 PM.
    2013 RT Ltd

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    Active Member ssmcclub's Avatar
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    My 2019 f3s lock up in park did release with the 2 12mm wrench went to the dealer he try it and it is working now whats up
    richie spyder

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    I think my ordeal is about over. Talked to mechanic, they got left hand housing replaced, and finally had to order a new ecu. Today, he said everything checked out good finally. Said park brake and everything was working. Hoped all this had fixed park brake problem. As long as it was working there was no check, so hopefully all’s good..said he would call in a couple hours as soon as he got it all back together and test ride it. I was a happy camper, been over 3 weeks. About 3 hrs later he called, said we got some good and some bad news. Bad is I would have to wait to pick it up, good was park brake wouldn’t unlock when he went to test ride it. With everything working now, he could hook buds up and figure it out. Wound up being the park brake motor. He said switch worked fine, took motor out hooked it directly to a battery and it wouldn’t go either way. He overnighted a new one, hope it gets here tomorrow. I would have got it home today and park brake would have screwed up in a day or 2 and I’d a

  20. #20
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    Got cut off, had a stroke. Thanks everyone for all the help.

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