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  1. #1
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    Default kill switch.. dead

    hi,ive a faulty stop switch , is it serviceable ?? ie pressure on button .. bike starts release pressure .. stops..
    its just the contacts iam sure .. but are these switches fixable ??

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Unfortunately....

    This has become a good or replace country. I remember when you could buy the part to fix such things. Now they sell only the whole control unit. Unless you are adventurous and open it up yourself. The one I looked up for a 2010 RT is $304.00... and yours only has one thing wrong with it...:banghead
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Default

    Warranty maybe The switches on RH should be easier than the complicated assortment on the LH so a tech might be able to fix or clean.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
    brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
    Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
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    GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
    FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
    BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
    SENA 20S EVO
    2013 STL , Stock Stock Black currant

  4. #4
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    Default ok fixed ...me thinks

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    This has become a good or replace country. I remember when you could buy the part to fix such things. Now they sell only the whole control unit. Unless you are adventurous and open it up yourself. The one I looked up for a 2010 RT is $304.00... and yours only has one thing wrong with it...:banghead
    ok open her up 4 screws on back.... then 5 screw inside one th the outer ... pull out.... pull off cruise control .. the 3 screws hold on the red kill ... mind here as it has 2 chrome small balls on either end of the rocker.... under it is a rubber molding with 2 bits that stick up... under is a sealed switch .. the ball bearing push down on the rubber mold and the activate the switch .... one side looks a bit swashed ( the one that activate the on or start ) so i turn them round .. having a better chance to keep the switch engaged ( as the of rubber one is never to less likely to be in position ... there for not compressing ( shortening over time ) .. over time the rubber gets compressed and loses its ability to keep the switch in the go position.... think this will happen to all of them as it a design fault .... took me 30 mins to sort it .. works just fine now ... hope this helps us save a few $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

  5. #5
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    Default

    ok open her up 4 screws on back.... then 5 screw inside one th the outer ... pull out.... pull off cruise control .. the 3 screws hold on the red kill ... mind here as it has 2 chrome small balls on either end of the rocker.... under it is a rubber molding with 2 bits that stick up... under is a sealed switch .. the ball bearing push down on the rubber mold and the activate the switch .... one side looks a bit swashed ( the one that activate the on or start ) so i turn them round .. having a better chance to keep the switch engaged ( as the of rubber one is never to less likely to be in position ... there for not compressing ( shortening over time ) .. over time the rubber gets compressed and loses its ability to keep the switch in the go position.... think this will happen to all of them as it a design fault .... took me 30 mins to sort it .. works just fine now ... hope this helps us save a few $$$$$$$$$$$$$$

  6. #6
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Isn't it great when you can answer your own question and teach the rest of us something besides? Thanks for your follow up.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

    2012 RT L
    AMA 25 years Life Member
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    2012 Spyder RT L , Baja Ron Plugs and wires Lava Bronze

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by trickstar911 View Post
    ok open her up 4 screws on back.... then 5 screw inside one th the outer ... pull out.... pull off cruise control .. the 3 screws hold on the red kill ... mind here as it has 2 chrome small balls on either end of the rocker.... under it is a rubber molding with 2 bits that stick up... under is a sealed switch .. the ball bearing push down on the rubber mold and the activate the switch .... one side looks a bit swashed ( the one that activate the on or start ) so i turn them round .. having a better chance to keep the switch engaged ( as the of rubber one is never to less likely to be in position ... there for not compressing ( shortening over time ) .. over time the rubber gets compressed and loses its ability to keep the switch in the go position.... think this will happen to all of them as it a design fault .... took me 30 mins to sort it .. works just fine now ... hope this helps us save a few $$$$$$$$$$$$$$
    Great... like the adventureous types and DIY folks that can find solutions. I have fixed many over my lifetime in the motorcycle industry and having spent many of those years in places that have no way to get new parts easily or much less affordable one learns to rig up some other way. Next step would have been pull the wires and hook up an alternative switch much like I did with the lights on my RS....20160322_083746.jpg Well done... you did save big bucks....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

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