Help electrical issue 2010 RTS

[Bunman]

Installed a double USB outlet in place of the blank in the center between the other rocker switches. Tapped the + & - wires that run to the temperature guage. Ran the wires from behind the RT. Side mirror the up to the underside of the rocker switch panel. Check the power by holding the leads to the posts n the back of the USB all was good. Fished the wires up through the hole, attached the ends, & connected to the posts on the back of the USB outlet. Buttoned things up. Turned on the ignition, no power to the switch and none of the dash powers up. Lights work, engine runs, but no turn signals, and other things don,t work. Fuses appear to be good.

After much head scratching we think that we may have shorted the wires before the bike actually shut down after we turned the ignition switch off.

Hope we didn’t mess things up to much.

Any help in trying to solve this issue would be welcome🙏🙏🙏


It was a blown fuse all is good now. Thanks for the assist 👏👏

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Did you actually remove the fuses and test them? Visual inspection of the fuses alone is usually not very reliable. They blow but there is no sign of it when just looking through the plastic. So, if you haven't already, remove the fuses and check with a continuity tester or continuity function on your meter. Maybe start with F3. And of course there's always the option of un-doing what you did. Plus, I'm not really comfortable with you picking off power from a gauge connection. It looks like you get a good 12v supply but the return seems to go back to the cluster and not to ground. You might want to reconsider that.

[UtahPete]

Installed a double USB outlet in place of the blank in the center between the other rocker switches. Tapped the + & - wires that run to the temperature guage. Ran the wires from behind the RT. Side mirror the up to the underside of the rocker switch panel. Check the power by holding the leads to the posts n the back of the USB all was good. Fished the wires up through the hole, attached the ends, & connected to the posts on the back of the USB outlet. Buttoned things up. Turned on the ignition, no power to the switch and none of the dash powers up. Lights work, engine runs, but no turn signals, and other things don,t work. Fuses appear to be good.

After much head scratching we think that we may have shorted the wires before the bike actually shut down after we turned the ignition switch off.

Hope we didn’t mess things up to much.

Any help in trying to solve this issue would be welcome������

Thanks

The temperature gauge circuit cannot carry the amount of current required by a USB outlet.

[Bunman]

Thanks I will try that

[Bunman]

Thanks again, for assist it was spot on!!!! The #3 fuse had blown, replaced with a new one and all is good.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

That’s how we like it. The 12v power there comes directly from F3 through one of the main relays. So you have plenty of power available to feed the USB outlet. On the other hand, if the gauge or the cluster ever mis-behaves once you start plugging stuff in, I suspect it would be because that negative line from the gauge goes back to the cluster on its way to ground. If that happens, you could just run your negative wire on the USB outlet right to ground to complete the circuit instead, and the gauge and cluster won’t even know it’s there. Be safe. Watch out for deer.

[deidrenk0626]

Type of Bike: 2012 Can Am Spyder RT Limited SE5

The exact same thing happen to me today and I was able to follow this thread by changing the #3 Fuse and it worked successfully after being baffled all day long.

Now I can finally rest well