Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    6
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Help electrical issue 2010 RTS

    Installed a double USB outlet in place of the blank in the center between the other rocker switches. Tapped the + & - wires that run to the temperature guage. Ran the wires from behind the RT. Side mirror the up to the underside of the rocker switch panel. Check the power by holding the leads to the posts n the back of the USB all was good. Fished the wires up through the hole, attached the ends, & connected to the posts on the back of the USB outlet. Buttoned things up. Turned on the ignition, no power to the switch and none of the dash powers up. Lights work, engine runs, but no turn signals, and other things don,t work. Fuses appear to be good.

    After much head scratching we think that we may have shorted the wires before the bike actually shut down after we turned the ignition switch off.

    Hope we didnít mess things up to much.

    Any help in trying to solve this issue would be welcome🙏🙏🙏


    It was a blown fuse all is good now. Thanks for the assist 👏👏
    Last edited by Bunman; 05-02-2019 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Problem fixed

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    681
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Did you actually remove the fuses and test them? Visual inspection of the fuses alone is usually not very reliable. They blow but there is no sign of it when just looking through the plastic. So, if you haven't already, remove the fuses and check with a continuity tester or continuity function on your meter. Maybe start with F3. And of course there's always the option of un-doing what you did. Plus, I'm not really comfortable with you picking off power from a gauge connection. It looks like you get a good 12v supply but the return seems to go back to the cluster and not to ground. You might want to reconsider that.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Oakley, Utah & Yuma, Arizona
    Posts
    5,534
    Spyder Garage
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bunman View Post
    Installed a double USB outlet in place of the blank in the center between the other rocker switches. Tapped the + & - wires that run to the temperature guage. Ran the wires from behind the RT. Side mirror the up to the underside of the rocker switch panel. Check the power by holding the leads to the posts n the back of the USB all was good. Fished the wires up through the hole, attached the ends, & connected to the posts on the back of the USB outlet. Buttoned things up. Turned on the ignition, no power to the switch and none of the dash powers up. Lights work, engine runs, but no turn signals, and other things don,t work. Fuses appear to be good.

    After much head scratching we think that we may have shorted the wires before the bike actually shut down after we turned the ignition switch off.

    Hope we didn’t mess things up to much.

    Any help in trying to solve this issue would be welcome������

    Thanks
    The temperature gauge circuit cannot carry the amount of current required by a USB outlet.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
    Northern Utah in summer; Yuma, AZ in winter.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    6
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks I will try that

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    6
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thanks again, for assist it was spot on!!!! The #3 fuse had blown, replaced with a new one and all is good.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Chardon, OH
    Posts
    681
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    That’s how we like it. The 12v power there comes directly from F3 through one of the main relays. So you have plenty of power available to feed the USB outlet. On the other hand, if the gauge or the cluster ever mis-behaves once you start plugging stuff in, I suspect it would be because that negative line from the gauge goes back to the cluster on its way to ground. If that happens, you could just run your negative wire on the USB outlet right to ground to complete the circuit instead, and the gauge and cluster won’t even know it’s there. Be safe. Watch out for deer.


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

    Original Owner

    Seal Pups, F4 Customs SWCV, Corbin, JT's Air Filter, Cat Bypass, Power Commander V, NBV, SpyderFlap, Rivco Dual Flag Holder, Lidlox, Baja Ron Sway Bar, links, plugs and wires, Adjustable Chrome Side Vents, Spyderpops Block Off Plate and Belt Guard, Bump Skid, Canisterectomy, Akrapovic, TricLed HL/FL, Spyder Cuff with X-Grip, S-Drive, Rock Armour, P238, Laser Alignment by Gray Ghost, Windshield Arm by Noboot, Vibration Dampener by Doc.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •