Ignition assembly failure questions

[fredsel]

Regarding 2010 Spyder RT Roadster SM5:
The key would not open either the frunk or the seat, so I disassembled the bike and removed the ignition assembly. Upon disassembly of the ignition assembly, I found that one of the sloped/inclined plastic protrusions that engage in the part that captures the ferrule on the end of the seat release cable was broken and jammed. This will be the second time that this assembly has been replaced (first time was by the dealer). So, now my questions:
1- Is this a common failure, and if so, does anyone know if BRP has manufactured a more robust assembly that has remedied this failure? (I don't suppose I could purchase a replacement for the broken plastic piece inside the assembly - perhaps aftermarket)?
2- If there is an 'improved' ignition assembly, would anyone know the PN? Otherwise, would anyone know what the OEM PN is? On the local dealer website it is listed as PN 710001195, although other sources on the internet list a variety of other part numbers.
3 - Assuming I have to replace the entire assembly, should I swap out my old key and cylinder for the one in the new assembly, so that I won’t have to also replace the trunk key cylinder?
4 - If I don’t swap out the key/cylinder will I have to bring the bike to the dealer to have the chip in the new key matched to the bike in order that the new ignition will actually start the bike?

Thanks very much in advance for any assistance.
Fred

Also, I attempted to upload a photo that shows the broken part inside the ignition assembly, however I was unsuccessful - I tried with both Safari and Firefox browsers - any advice on this?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

#1. - I tried to access all your past post - this function has been changed and no longer shows all your posts ....#2. - someone ( maybe you ) asked how to open the Frunk, and the way to do it was explained. #3.- have you priced how much it is going to cost you to re-place the ignition switch, even if you do 95% of the work , the parts are uber expensive. If you can get the assembly back on and the IGNITION switch still functions .... just add a re-mote pull wire/cable to open the frunk .... I did this over a decade ago to my GS ... RSS ... and my RT ..... I NEVER use the key to open the FRUNK it's a failure waiting to happen ..... good luck ..... Mike

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Fred:
1 - This does happen sometimes. The fixes to add remote pull wires are much more effective and reliable...and economical.
2 - Don't know about an improved switch assembly, but the part number that you posted is for the DESS module, not the switch assembly. Two different things.
3 - If you can actually remove the new key cylinder assembly from a new switch, and install the old cylinder assembly into it, and reinstall the DESS antenna, you could conceivably avoid having to reprogram keys. You just continue using your current keys.
4 - Otherwise, you'll need to go to your dealer, OR obtain the Master Key and a Shop Manual (for the procedure to follow) to program the new keys to the old DESS module. It's a unique procedure where-as you kick start the programming sequence using an old key and then program the new keys. But you'll need the Master Key.

[fredsel]

Mike and Doug,
Thanks very much for your replies, much appreciated. After I posted this I ordered a used ignition assembly for $95 (far less than the $214 for new), and while in the process of disassembling the old one (I take everything apart, I can't help it), I discovered that the key and cylinder slide out, so my plan is to put this in the new assembly (as you also suggested, Doug). I have the entire assembly on the bench including the wire that begins as a part of the formed plastic of part of the key assembly, the distal end then plugs into a wire harness down low on the right (this goes to the DESS antenna?) . I also watched a video on how to use a cable and housing (such as a bicycle brake cable) to create releases for both the frunk and the seat. I plan on doing this.
A couple of followup questions---
If I put the old cylinder and key into the new (used) ignition assembly, will this eliminate any need to match the new ignition assembly with my cycle? Alternatively, I could simply swap out the the good part from inside the new (used) assembly for the broken part inside my old assembly. I think this is what I will do... I've got the old assembly mostly apart at this point.
- Also, for the manual releases, do either of you have a particular method that you prefer? Here is a link to what I plan to do - a little more complicated than just a simple wire, but I have some old cable and housing around that will work, and I like the idea of an actual cable with a housing around it.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtUDlTER1jc
Thanks again to both of you, and be well,
Fred

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Fred. Well done so far. Bottom line about the security chips and module - if you swap enough parts over so that you are using the old keys and core, to turn the new switch mechanism - and you install and hook up the antenna ring - then your DESS module won't know any different. It'll still be reading the same chips in the same keys. Also, looks like you have properly identified the antenna ring assembly, but here's a pic. Otherwise, I haven't installed any manual releases myself, but personal preference, the more professional looking, the better.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Although I haven't done what you are saying is the fix for you .... it sounds like it should work .... I believe keeping your orig. antennae is the way to avoid a new key and dealer programming ..... I see the video you posted ... I did my first one ( on an 08 GS ) 9 years ago ..... I bought the thinnest plastic covered wire cable sold at Home Depot ( 3/32 in ? ) and used that as the pull cord .... they sell it by the foot .... Lowe's probably has the same thing ..... get a couple of pinch ferrules while your at it ..... good luck .... Mike about 5 years ago I started doing these emerg. releases as a vendor at various Spyder events