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  1. #1
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    Default F3L won't start...checking everything I can think of

    Ok issues with 17F3 L..went to start it up everything is normal till I hit start...bam no power anywhere at first. Checked all fuses...all good...I just checked the battery terminals tightened them up...is there another ground I may need to check ? Tried it same thing ...battery on charger right now

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    1 - Look at your kill switch ( red button on right handlebar). Should be in DOWN position.

    2 - Make sure your foot is on the brake when you hit starter, (Might have shut off in gear).

    Let us know

    Cruzr Joe
    [SIZE=4]2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    Kill switch was one of the first things I checked. It's odd goes thru all it process then I hit mode then start ...shuts right back down...lights start flickering and you can hear it going thru a system start up...gauges going up and down screen looks like it's in a start up mode also ?
    Have it on the charger was told could be a low battery...when I try next time I will hold the break just in case

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by esmith3190 View Post
    ..bam no power anywhere at first.

    ..is there another ground I may need to check ?
    What do you mean "at first" ?
    Yes, you need to check the OTHER END both main power cables; one goes to ground.
    You REALLY NEED a voltmeter to chase down the problem.

    If absolutely everything really went dead........then the kill switch and brake aren't going to be the fix.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Really sounds like a battery failure or poor battery connection.

    Cruzr Joe
    [SIZE=4]2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer/SIZE]

  6. #6
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    Tightened all terminals...Frame ground also tightened found it behind the front trunk bolt going into the frame..it was tight.

  7. #7
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    I just had it out last weekend...No issues at all..had it on trickle charger all winter long..?? Also talked to the mechanic at the dealer ..checked everything he said. Is there another ground somewhere.. 2017 F3 Limited

  8. #8
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
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    Looks like it is your battery. Just because it is only 2 years old doesn't mean that it has not gone bad. Try putting a battery pack on it and see if it will start.

  9. #9
    Active Member tibadoe's Avatar
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    I'm also guessing it's the battery gone bad or needs a good saturation charge.
    ----
    Joe

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Ouch... Battery

    You mention it was on a trickle charger all winter long...not good you should only use a maintainer, like a battery tender. Quickest check will be to hook up to a known good battery, if a car don't start it up, and see if you can fire her up. If so it will be the battery and you will have to have it checked or replaced as needed. Hoping a good charge will get you going but your gonna have doubts ...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  11. #11
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    I got the neighbor's jump pack...started right up. Thank you all new battery time.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by esmith3190 View Post
    I got the neighbor's jump pack...started right up. Thank you all new battery time.
    AND.....you then need to check your "trickle charger"......and replace it if it is not a smart battery tender/maintainer.

    If you blindly continue to use that charger without first checking the voltage........that would NOT be a wise thing to do.
    And if it really is a "dumb" trickle charger, continuing to use it would not be a wise thing to do either.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    AND.....you then need to check your "trickle charger"......and replace it if it is not a smart battery tender/maintainer.

    If you blindly continue to use that charger without first checking the voltage........that would NOT be a wise thing to do.
    And if it really is a "dumb" trickle charger, continuing to use it would not be a wise thing to do either.
    Yes, it’s often just semantics, Easy Rider....so many people call their battery tender a trickle charger.....very confusing.

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  14. #14
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    Well...been awhile .I put the battery on a charger. 12.8 reading out of the bike. Installed battery ...same issue getting new battery and then having charging system checked...same tender I used on my 2013 never had issues before

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