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  1. #1
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    Default Sorry Me again! Battery

    Had lots of funny things goin on as of late with my 2014 ST. Long story short.....It has gone thru 3 batteries in a year. This all after havin the dess/key switch all replaced. The first one was the original....(Died two days after the dealership work)....It was old enough to go bad.But.....The first replacement lasted aprox. 7 months.....This one I have now is aprox.4 months old<90 day warranty gone. Had both tested n they showed 12.7 volts and aprox. 300 cca.They were 340 CCA Batteries. But it said to replace battery. NOW It is possible that I am just unlucky n got two "bad" batteries??? I always keep it on a tender and ride at least two days a week.Could there be something killin these batteries? And....When I replace my fuel filter....Can I reused the original clamps? TY Again for the input.

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    Very Active Member Haze's Avatar
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    I have a 2013 ST with the original Battery. Never have battery problems.
    I only use a battery tender to top off the charge if the bike hasn't been ridden in more than a month.
    You must have a parasitic drain that is discharging the battery. Can you disconnect the negative battery
    terminal and put a milliamp meter (its the amp setting on most multimeters) in series to measure the current draw with the engine off? It should be almost zero as the only drain should be the dash clock and maybe the ECU.

    Do not use the original clamps when replacing the fuel filter. High pressure clamps are available at all the auto parts stores.
    I purchased a set at O'Riely auto parts for pennies.

    Good Luck with the trouble shooting.
    David C
    2016 F3T
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Joe T.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TONYO View Post
    Had lots of funny things goin on as of late with my 2014 ST. Long story short.....It has gone thru 3 batteries in a year. This all after havin the dess/key switch all replaced. The first one was the original....(Died two days after the dealership work)....It was old enough to go bad.But.....The first replacement lasted aprox. 7 months.....This one I have now is aprox.4 months old<90 day warranty gone. Had both tested n they showed 12.7 volts and aprox. 300 cca.They were 340 CCA Batteries. But it said to replace battery. NOW It is possible that I am just unlucky n got two "bad" batteries??? I always keep it on a tender and ride at least two days a week.Could there be something killin these batteries? And....When I replace my fuel filter....Can I reused the original clamps? TY Again for the input.
    I have worked with, and they later worked for me, many M&P (Materials and Processes) engineers. The best one I ever had the privilege of working with was Doug Neff (sp?) at Lockheed's Skunk Works.

    When a process went out of whack, Doug was meticulous about WATCHING FOLKS perform the process/function and asking a lot of questions. He said the majority of process problems occurred after 'something was changed' about the part or materials used just before the process went whacko.

    So, I would suggest that you find out what EXACTLY happened at the dealership completed its work. There most likely lies your problem - - - -

    Regards,
    Joe T.
    Joe T.
    I miss SoCal - - - -

  4. #4
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    Goin to the dealership in a couple days....We will see. TY

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    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    good idea!!!!
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  6. #6
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TONYO View Post
    Goin to the dealership in a couple days....We will see. TY
    From what you have stated about your issues and the dealer fixs … imho you need to go to a different dealer …. good luck …. I have had VERY few issues with my 2014 RT , I also NEVER take it to a dealer ( unless it is warranty issues ) for any service or repairs …. seems to be a correlation here ….. Mike

  7. #7
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TONYO View Post
    Goin to the dealership in a couple days....We will see. TY
    Ask them what process they use in getting a battery ready to install for the first time. If they take it off the shelf and put it into the bike that could be your problem. The battery really needs to be fully and slowly charged before it is installed for the first time.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #8
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    If you take a test light unhook negative cable. Put the light to terminal test lead to cable. If it lights you have a draw. Then u would pull fuses to see where it's coming from.
    Doubt its that being you are getting some life out of battery. If it was a draw would probably be dead between starts. Would lean toward battery. What type of battery are they installing?

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Curious...🤔

    Have you or anyone checked the output of the charging system..? have seen some ryders that do not ryde long enough to recharge the battery to where it is slowly loosing charge. If the system is not putting out enough the same will happen. If your going have it checked out to be sure....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  10. #10
    Very Active Member stmike 1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmccaffrey View Post
    If you take a test light unhook negative cable. Put the light to terminal test lead to cable. If it lights you have a draw. Then u would pull fuses to see where it's coming from.
    Doubt its that being you are getting some life out of battery. If it was a draw would probably be dead between starts. Would lean toward battery. What type of battery are they installing?
    Make sure test light has a regular bulb not LED.
    2018 RTL , dark blue

  11. #11
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    OK.....To clear up a few things.I never go to the dealer for anything other than warranty work. The batteries were from local parts stores.Last one advance auto......I charged em b/4 I put em in and have always kept em on a tender.......SO I called the service guy n talked with him about it.I thought they would check it for free since its still under warranty>>>WRONG! He said that the dess/switch replacement could not have been involved in the killing of these batteries. For 100 bucks they will check it for me LOL No thanks. I found a 350 cca battery at the local batteries plus store for that 100 bucks.....With a one year warranty.I did the test light test and it showed no draw. SO.....Im just gona assume its two "bad" batteries and get the new one and cross my fingers. TY ALL For the advice/input.

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    Before you leave this subject completely.......you need to consider that your battery "tender" might have failed and IT is cooking your batteries.....and/or not really keeping them charged.

    This is especially possible if your replacement batteries have been conventional wet cell types with caps to check the fluid level........instead of an AGM type that it should have.

    You really NEED a voltmeter to make some basic tests.

  13. #13
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    TY Easy......Both batteries were 340 cca AGM. I have two tenders......SO After the first bat. went bad I thought the same thing.....I changed em out.One is on my mower and its doin fine. Could be both tenders are bad....BUT....Prolly not. I have already paid for the new one at Batteries Plus.......It will be ready in the mornin......I think it will crank a few more times. Goin for a ride in a few min. I will NOT be turnin it off till im back at my cabin!

  14. #14
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TONYO View Post
    OK.....To clear up a few things.I never go to the dealer for anything other than warranty work. The batteries were from local parts stores.Last one advance auto......I charged em b/4 I put em in and have always kept em on a tender.......SO I called the service guy n talked with him about it.I thought they would check it for free since its still under warranty>>>WRONG! He said that the dess/switch replacement could not have been involved in the killing of these batteries. For 100 bucks they will check it for me LOL No thanks. I found a 350 cca battery at the local batteries plus store for that 100 bucks.....With a one year warranty.I did the test light test and it showed no draw. SO.....Im just gona assume its two "bad" batteries and get the new one and cross my fingers. TY ALL For the advice/input.
    I'm for you ...………...Mike ……….. PS if you don't have STAR washers on the terminals now,you might want to get some , I have NEVER had one loosen by itself …...

  15. #15
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    You also might want to think about Yuasa battery. They are excellent battery. Mine is 6yrs old. Will replace this year with same just for peace of mind

  16. #16
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    OK....Update.....Got the new battery.Had the charging system checked.Its charging just fine. SO.....Two dang bad batteries back to back I recon. I did buy a new tender just to be sure my old ones are not bad as well. TY All for the input/advice.

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