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  1. #76
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KC61 View Post
    Because the one on Fleabay isn't even shaped properly to fit the nut, that's why I think it is incorrect. The one on Fleabay is rounded where the BRP tool is more straight cut and a star pattern. Use what you want. all I'm saying is it isn't the correct one.
    Then we are looking at different sockets. It should be a standard straight cut 12 point 65mm socket. Not rounded. But there are plenty of them out there for less than $50. I have one from 'tru-craft' Its not Snap on quality but its fine. Its not rounded.

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  2. #77
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by poli View Post
    I've checked torque on rear wheel. I have a 1/2" torque wrench and with the 1/2 to 3/4 adapter, it works without any extension.
    Good information. I could not find anything n 3/4 inch drive less than 4 inches in length. I bit the bullet and purchases a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and torque wrench that goes up to 350 ft pounds. Did I mention that I was a tool Wh..e?

  3. #78
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KC61 View Post
    Because the one on Fleabay isn't even shaped properly to fit the nut, that's why I think it is incorrect. The one on Fleabay is rounded where the BRP tool is more straight cut and a star pattern. Use what you want. all I'm saying is it isn't the correct one.
    The picture is misleading. I am not sure if it is the angle or what. But the socket I received is the standard, straight cut socket. The same one you'll get if you pay more, to a point.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  4. #79
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    OK guys, this is what you need! After much searching I finally find the ideal unit, a torque multiplier. This unit has a 3.4 to 1 torque ratio with 1/2" drive in and out. Get the nut snugged down, then put the socket on the output drive, your torque wrench on the input side, rest the torque arm on something secure, and tighten away. You can easily put 220 lbf-ft of torque on the nut using only 65 lbf-ft of torque on your wrench. You might even be able to carry the socket, this multiplier, and a 1/2" torque wrench on the Ryker somewhere.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2282_200712282

    Torque multiplier.JPG

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  5. #80
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    OK guys, this is what you need! After much searching I finally find the ideal unit, a torque multiplier. This unit has a 3.4 to 1 torque ratio with 1/2" drive in and out. Get the nut snugged down, then put the socket on the output drive, your torque wrench on the input side, rest the torque arm on something secure, and tighten away. You can easily put 220 lbf-ft of torque on the nut using only 65 lbf-ft of torque on your wrench. You might even be able to carry the socket, this multiplier, and a 1/2" torque wrench on the Ryker somewhere.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2282_200712282

    Torque multiplier.JPG
    I use to use a much bigger version of a torque multiplier on rig equipment. Some of our bolts require close to 1000 ft lbs and these things are a life saver.
    David

  6. #81
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    So the guy on YouTube with the wheels falling off his Rally has posted a new video. He seems quite sarcastic, not sure what his motives are, 10 minutes of fame maybe. I think his dealer is fully to blame for this and he is completely dissing on Can Am where it seems they have been very responsive.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-6ey50JDQA

  7. #82
    Active Member poli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KC61 View Post
    So the guy on YouTube with the wheels falling off his Rally has posted a new video. He seems quite sarcastic, not sure what his motives are, 10 minutes of fame maybe. I think his dealer is fully to blame for this and he is completely dissing on Can Am where it seems they have been very responsive.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-6ey50JDQA
    You're right, he has never known what he was talking about and definitely wanting to blame BRP for something that is plainly his dealer's fault. Hopefully that is his last video because he did manage to stir up a lot of folks over nothing!
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  8. #83
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groot View Post
    In this video Smoak clearly shows the Ryker wheel assembly and how its put together.
    Did you notice how easy the lug nut safety pin came off? BRP could make the safety pin a bit more rigid.
    If torqued properly and safety pin stays in place, the lug nut will not unscrew.
    I am zip tying mine for peace of mind
    As did someone at the dealer involved in the drama.
    An enterprising person could develop a replacement clip that locks more securely.

  9. #84
    Active Member KID Ryker's Avatar
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    Zip tying. Is so BRP knows if he Jack's with the wheels

  10. #85
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KID Ryker View Post
    Zip tying. Is so BRP knows if he Jack's with the wheels
    Didn't one of his circlips go missing and fail to retain the nut though in the first place?

  11. #86
    Member Harry76's Avatar
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    That guy is an idiot, he said in his first video he noticed the day before that it was making noise and vibrating.
    If he had any brains at all he would have fully investigated it before riding it again.

  12. #87
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry76 View Post
    That guy is an idiot, he said in his first video he noticed the day before that it was making noise and vibrating.
    If he had any brains at all he would have fully investigated it before riding it again.
    Idiot or not if the failsafe doesn't work what then ? is the point he was getting at.Yeah he jumped the gun blaming the nut design when it was the nut mechanic that tensioned his wheel at fault.
    This will happen over and over, not everyone reads forums to find out the nut tension is critical and there's a possibility the circlip won't hold it all together.
    It could have easily turned out 1 second after he felt the vibration that the wheel decided to part company rather than the next day or whenever.I don't think his wheel fell off or anything but lucky him!
    i applaud him for sticking his neck on the line over this and yes he could have used the services of a decent public relations firm to get his point across but why should he it's BRP's problem not his.
    Don't shoot the messenger.

  13. #88
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    The correct thing to do would have been to have this issue addressed with BRP and the Dealer before shooting off his mouth when he didn't know all the facts. But unfortunately he decided to go off the deep end immediately. In his mind he had the issue construed as a bad design right off the bat when that just isn't true. A 3 video segment or however many it was should have been a single post or video about the outcome instead of getting everyone in a tither right off the bat. Not sure why people immediately believe something they see on the internet but I have seen more than one post where people decided not to buy a Ryker based on this nut job. His video should have been an apology to BRP, not saying it's still an inferior design with ty-raps holding the safety clip on, idiot.

  14. #89
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
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    Yeah but the clip went missing so they don't work.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobwebs View Post
    Yeah but the clip went missing so they don't work.
    Did it really? I've had mine off and I just don't see how the clip would fall out. IF you were 'off roading' and caught it on a bush or something, maybe. I haven't zip tied mine, not sure if I will.
    YMMV.

  16. #91
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    Maybe someone will start marketing Ryker zip ties and charging a fortune for them. Seems reasonable after some of the ridiculous aftermarket pricing I have seen for the Ryker already. LED headlights for an example, you can buy quality LED H4 Headlights on Amazon all day long for under $40 and I'm seeing them aftermarket branded for 3 times that. Do your homework folks, it doesn't have to say Ryker on it to work.

  17. #92
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    I bought the UK socket, a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter and a 1/2" 250 lb torque wrench. Works fine. I use a double thickness of grocery sack plastic on the nut under the socket; protects the nut and takes up any 'slack' in the wrench. None of it says BRP or Can Am.

  18. #93
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    Someone on another forum posted that a 2 1/2" socket fits perfectly. Now I can neither confirm this or deny it but if it is fact you can get a nice 2 1/2" socket at Northern Tool for $22.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by McRuss View Post
    Did it really? I've had mine off and I just don't see how the clip would fall out. IF you were 'off roading' and caught it on a bush or something, maybe. I haven't zip tied mine, not sure if I will.
    YMMV.
    To start this story my serial # is 293, Rally Ed. Aye the red clip!

    I went to my dealer the other day with a loose bolt holding front gauge assembly. Two mechanics approach. One is working on the front bolt the other one says, oh you have the old clip. I said I do? He said yes. When these first came out the directions were not that clear and they changed the clips as well. He said I'll get you the right clip. Without further ado he went and found the right clip and put it on and yes it looks much more like what I've been seeing on interwebz. He also stated that yes they found they too were installing them wrong (earlier on when they were released) per I'm sure some internal bulletin/memo/email etc.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by nchangin View Post
    To start this story my serial # is 293, Rally Ed. Aye the red clip!

    I went to my dealer the other day with a loose bolt holding front gauge assembly. Two mechanics approach. One is working on the front bolt the other one says, oh you have the old clip. I said I do? He said yes. When these first came out the directions were not that clear and they changed the clips as well. He said I'll get you the right clip. Without further ado he went and found the right clip and put it on and yes it looks much more like what I've been seeing on interwebz. He also stated that yes they found they too were installing them wrong (earlier on when they were released) per I'm sure some internal bulletin/memo/email etc.
    Don't suppose you have pictures of the 2 clips? or what differences did you notice? I do like the extra security the zip ties provide. Often use them on the 4x4 as additional insurance - thanks

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by glennm View Post
    Don't suppose you have pictures of the 2 clips? or what differences did you notice? I do like the extra security the zip ties provide. Often use them on the 4x4 as additional insurance - thanks
    I really don't wished I did Sorry

  22. #97
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McRuss View Post
    Did it really? I've had mine off and I just don't see how the clip would fall out. IF you were 'off roading' and caught it on a bush or something, maybe. I haven't zip tied mine, not sure if I will.
    YMMV.
    Different forces at work when the nut is loose though.The minimalist clip with it's ''cool red look'' fits the design brief but appears to fall down on the job when asked to perform.None of us were there when it happened so can never be 100% sure but it does seem very easy to release/ fit so best to err on the side of caution I say.Given that the wheels rarely need removing a more permanent safety pin could be employed.Who knows might save a horses life one day.

  23. #98
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    Here's a tip for the idiots putting these together at the dealership. If you don't know which way the clip goes look at the rear wheel clip, it's already installed from the factory. If you cant use a torque wrench go back to McDonalds and flip burgers.

  24. #99
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    I just realized that my 2 wheels are missing the locking pin! damn dealer... Does anyone know the oem part of the pin as I can't find it on the online fiche. TIA.

  25. #100
    Active Member Michaelscs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBRKR View Post
    I just realized that my 2 wheels are missing the locking pin! damn dealer... Does anyone know the oem part of the pin as I can't find it on the online fiche. TIA.
    If yours are missing from the dealer, take it back to the dealer and raise HELL!!!!!

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