Battery Recommendation?

[Sopher]

I've had the YAUSA batteries... they dont hold up.
I see lots of batteries with equivalent CCA and other ratings.

Duracell
Chrome/Pirate batteries
Durablast
etc

I'm leaning towards the Duracell Ultra 18L-BS AGM battery from Batteries plus as they offer a 24month warranty.

[Fat Baxter]

Check out Odyssey batteries. They advertise "twice the power and triple the life of conventional lead acid batteries." I note on their website they offer one for Spyders, although a bit smaller than OEM.

I recall from my BMW riding days that they lasted quite as bit longer than the usual recommended batteries, but they were very pricey.

[Easy Rider]

I've had the YAUSA batteries... they dont hold up.

That conclusion is NOT supported by any of the generally available evidence.

I've used them for about 30 years in all kinds of bikes and they are as good or better than anything else on the market.
That experience is shared by ALMOST everybody who expresses an opinion on all kinds of bike forums.

That is not to say that there aren't a few bad ones appearing from time to time........as happens with all brands.

Pick whatever name brand AGM battery you like.
It likely will be on a par with Yausa.

P.S. ANY battery will have it's life reduced if you don't properly take care of it.
That usually means just being sure that it is constantly fully charged.
Or....NOT letting it go flat and leaving it like that very long.
Also prolonged exposure to excess heat will damage any battery.

[Easy Rider]

They advertise "twice the power and triple the life of conventional lead acid batteries."

Sounds like marketing hype to me.

ALL AGM batteries perform better than "conventional lead acid" ones.

[R FUN]

Everyone to there own opinion, only Yuasa for me. Had one fail, identical size as the spyder battery, in my snowmobile after 13 years in service, what a bummer, HA HA.
If you look after them I usually have no problem getting 10 years of service. I change the battery in the spyder after 5 years service then use them in snowmobiles or ATVs.
Roger

[Chupaca]

I have not found a better battery than the YUASA. I have used them for as long as I have had bikes and installed them as long as I worked on them. They consistantly lasted 5 to seven years if properly maintained and not abused by excessive drain from accessories . These machines do tax the battery with the standard equipment but still never an issue. That being said and it is me and my customers at the time there are a lot of other batteries out there and may work well. Many need modifications for fit and though they are many lighter if weight is your goal dump the the cat.... Hope there are those that have had good results with the other brands with long term use....

[Sopher]

I've forgot what my earlier history was on batteries on this 2010 RTS.
I do I know I changed it in in 2014, then again in 2017.
Now the 2017 one is dead dead. hence to search for a new one.

ALWAYS on a battery tender. After EVERY ride when it goes back into the garage.

[Big Juice]

I have my bike batteries on a battery "tender", not trickle charger, when it's in the garage. My Yuasa went 7 yrs, my Batteries + branded battery went 2 yrs. I have experienced that Spyders are "sensitive" to weak batteries, so I only buy good quality batteries and change them every 5 yrs. That's my personal experience and process (average 12K to 15K miles a year). Never had a problem with my Yuasa batteries in my 50yrs of riding......

[wingit3611]

I just got one from Amazon. But it Coat me 19.33 Shipping.
YTX24HL-BS_M12-21-350-D
Yuasa YTX24HL-BS Battery (Replacement)
1
$39.88
$39.88 Works good
It was a SigmasTek YTX24HL-BS

[jcthorne]

The correct battery is the Yuasa YTX24HL. NOT the -BS version. If you are buying the -BS version against BRP recommendation and do not strictly follow the filling, charging and conditioning procedure, it would explain the very short life.

Odyssey does indeed make and exact replacement and its a great battery. But so is the Yuasa. Both are made in USA which cannot be said for the other ones mentioned above.

[Easy Rider]

Now the 2017 one is dead dead. hence to search for a new one.

ALWAYS on a battery tender. After EVERY ride when it goes back into the garage.

As you are kind of finding out here, it would seem...............

Having it on a tender ALL the time is not necessarily good.
Especially if the "tender" really is a cheap trickle charger......or if the once good automatic battery tender has now failed.

[Easy Rider]

It was a SigmasTek YTX24HL-BS

Sorry but this sounds like a cheap Chinese "knock-off".....and you probably should not expect more than 2-3 years service from it.

[Easy Rider]

and do not strictly follow the filling, charging and conditioning procedure, it would explain the very short life.

IF.....you do not follow the installation instructions for almost ANYTHING, you should not expect it to work right.

The other side of that coin is: If you DO follow the instructions, which probably does NOT include any "conditioning", the BS version should be just fine.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've had the YAUSA batteries... they dont hold up.
I see lots of batteries with equivalent CCA and other ratings.

Duracell
Chrome/Pirate batteries
Durablast
etc

I'm leaning towards the Duracell Ultra 18L-BS AGM battery from Batteries plus as they offer a 24month warranty.

18L….. Is not the correct size , it is too small - for any Spyder …. Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I've forgot what my earlier history was on batteries on this 2010 RTS.
I do I know I changed it in in 2014, then again in 2017.
Now the 2017 one is dead dead. hence to search for a new one.

ALWAYS on a battery tender. After EVERY ride when it goes back into the garage.

I suspect the batteries you had were not properly conditioned before you started using them. And, as others have said, always on a tender is not necessary and will be harmful if it doesn't control the charge correctly. I changed the Yuasa battery in my Honda ATV for the first time at 11 years last year. It's only been on a maintainer during part of the time during winters.

[jcthorne]

IF.....you do not follow the installation instructions for almost ANYTHING, you should not expect it to work right.

The other side of that coin is: If you DO follow the instructions, which probably does NOT include any "conditioning", the BS version should be just fine.

Your 'probably' would be wrong and the reason for short life of the -BS version in many installs, and BRP's recommendation not to use them in the Spyders.

[BajaRon]

Though there are a number of battery options that will work well in the Spyder. I agree with those who have had good luck with the Yuasa brand batteries.

The Spyder has high demands for the battery. Anything less than factory spec. is going to give you trouble. As long as you get the correct type, size and power rating for the application and treat it right. I think Yuasa is as good or better than most anything else at the same price range.

[Easy Rider]

Your 'probably' would be wrong and the reason for short life of the -BS version in many installs, and BRP's recommendation not to use them in the Spyders.

Mighty funny that at least one battery maker says flatly that there will be NO DIFFERENCE between one that is user activated and one that is factory filled.

I fully appreciate that you think you are providing good information here.......but I respectfully insist that it is NOT good advice.

Users can make up their own mind.

[jcthorne]

Mighty funny that at least one battery maker says flatly that there will be NO DIFFERENCE between one that is user activated and one that is factory filled.

I fully appreciate that you think you are providing good information here.......but I respectfully insist that it is NOT good advice.

Users can make up their own mind.

You are welcome to do as you please with your bike. The 'advice' I am giving is what BRP has relayed to dealers from real world experience. The -BS versions, if not properly activated before installation in a Spyder do not last long. They are NOT the same life span as factory activated batteries for this reason. While it is possible for an owner or shop to do the activation correctly and get life just as long, its not a given and has been the source of problems many times over. This is the reason for the 'advice' from BRP. A tech service bulletin to that effect. I happen to agree with BRP in this case. There is no financial downside to ordering the factory activated version which is KNOWN to be properly activated and ready to install.

Insist all you want, your position does not correlate with real world experience on Spyders.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You are welcome to do as you please with your bike. The 'advice' I am giving is what BRP has relayed to dealers from real world experience. The -BS versions, if not properly activated before installation in a Spyder do not last long. They are NOT the same life span as factory activated batteries for this reason. While it is possible for an owner or shop to do the activation correctly and get life just as long, its not a given and has been the source of problems many times over. This is the reason for the 'advice' from BRP. A tech service bulletin to that effect. I happen to agree with BRP in this case. There is no financial downside to ordering the factory activated version which is KNOWN to be properly activated and ready to install.

Insist all you want, your position does not correlate with real world experience on Spyders.

Just another possibility …. My brand new 2014 RT FAILED the day I bought it …. It was a BRP factory supplied Yuasa battery …. That IMHO was NOT properly charged..... It has been causing issues ( like slow starting ) for the entire time I've owned it …. The dealer I took it to after I got home refused to re-place under warranty …. I decided to re-place it with the BS version ….. I'm sure I did the Initial charge properly & am very happy..... People who don't follow directions can't be helped …………. Mike

[Easy Rider]

if not properly activated before installation in a Spyder do not last long. They are NOT the same life span as factory activated batteries for this reason.

Insist all you want, your position does not correlate with real world experience on Spyders.

That is a problem with the OWNERS, not the product.

What kind of actual proof do you have to back up your "position" ??........that is NOT related to owner mis-use ??

No, never mind. This is pointless.

[Easy Rider]

... People who don't follow directions can't be helped …………. Mike

Side note: This is really scary. You and I seem to agree on almost everything lately ??
I have started watching for flying pigs.

[jcthorne]

That is a problem with the OWNERS, not the product.
What kind of actual proof do you have to back up your "position" ??........that is NOT related to owner mis-use ??

No, never mind. This is pointless.

I actually agree with you. The -BS battery CAN work fine. Its just that it often does not as the required activation procedure is unforgiving and often ignored. Its no more expensive to get one already done correctly at the factory. This was way BRP made the recommendation and I just happen to agree with the logic, and suggest same to customers of mine.

I also agree to drop this as we have both said the same things several times and its not going anywhere.

[SpyderJerry]

I had my Yausa battery fail this spring, a year and a half old. Found my battery tender overcharged and killed it. Advance Auto Parts has the exact replacement, it is a Yausa with their part number TX24HL. It is factory activated and cost $104

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I had my Yausa battery fail this spring, a year and a half old. Found my battery tender overcharged and killed it.

Was it the brand name "Battery Tender" or some other brand? In either case was it a battery maintainer or a trickle charger? A maintainer sends a pulse of current every once in awhile when the battery voltage dips. A trickle charger pushes a constant low level current through the battery and that will kill a battery. If it was a maintainer and the control circuitry in it crapped out it probably changed into a trickle charger. Not good. Or did you mistakenly have the switch set to charge rather than maintain?