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Rattle / Loose Front Sprocket
About 3 months ago I began hearing a rattle coming from the engine/transmission area. The rattle was only noticeable while decelerating. So last week noticing it was getting louder I took it to my local Can Am dealer. They determined the front sprocket bolt had come lose. Background info: This is a 2019 RT Limited I purchased new in August 2019 and I began hearing the rattle with about 10,000 miles on it and now has about 18,000 miles. The tech contacted Can Am to see if it was acceptable to re-torque the bolt using red thread-lock and Can Am agreed. When I picked it up that morning the rattle was gone but after about 50 miles the rattle returned and was worse than ever. I immediately returned to the dealership and they discovered the bolt was loose again and I could see where the sprocket had damage on both ends of the splines. They have ordered a new sprocket and bolt. The splines on the transmission shaft appear to be in perfect condition.
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Originally Posted by rc7990
About 3 months ago I began hearing a rattle coming from the engine/transmission area. The rattle was only noticeable while decelerating. So last week noticing it was getting louder I took it to my local Can Am dealer. They determined the front sprocket bolt had come lose. Background info: This is a 2019 RT Limited I purchased new in August 2019 and I began hearing the rattle with about 10,000 miles on it and now has about 18,000 miles. The tech contacted Can Am to see if it was acceptable to re-torque the bolt using red thread-lock and Can Am agreed. When I picked it up that morning the rattle was gone but after about 50 miles the rattle returned and was worse than ever. I immediately returned to the dealership and they discovered the bolt was loose again and I could see where the sprocket had damage on both ends of the splines. They have ordered a new sprocket and bolt. The splines on the transmission shaft appear to be in perfect condition.
Common problem which surprisingly the dealer tech wasn’t aware of..........make sure he applies moly assembly paste as listed in shop manual.....very important step! There is a TSB which addesses this issue.
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Very Active Member
very sloppy dealership to only "think" its the bolt problem and NOT the pulley. how could they be right there, and see the splines were worn and not REPLACE it. time to find another dealer after this!!!!
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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rc out of curiosity do you down shift or let the bike do it
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Woodaddict
very sloppy dealership to only "think" its the bolt problem and NOT the pulley. how could they be right there, and see the splines were worn and not REPLACE it. time to find another dealer after this!!!!
Yes, this is CanAm’s big issue, Woodaddict. Every manufacturer’s vehicles come with some kind of issue, which is usually addressed by mechanics at your dealer. However, too many CanAm dealers cut corners, and put their junior 2 wheel mechanic on Spyder maintenance and repair, resulting in someone who knows virtually nothing about Spyders, and only limited knowledge of 2 wheels, working on your Spyder.
Sure CanAm have dropped the ball too, as evidenced by poorly designed front sprocket assemblies continuing to be rolled out, but EVERY tech working on a Spyder should be made aware of common issues like sprocket failure indicators if they are tasked to work on Spyders.
If you have a good dealer, but they are a fair distance away, enjoy the ride there. I do not use my local dealer
Pete.
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by fatboy
rc out of curiosity do you down shift or let the bike do it
I’m obviously not the OP, fatboy, but just as an aside, I let the Spyder change down 95% of the time and have not experienced sprocket issues (I probably shouldn’t have said that ). Do you think manual down shift increases or decreases the possibility of sprocket failure?
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
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Out of curiosity, why would manually downshifting increase the probability of this happening. Inquiring minds and all.
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Very Active Member
Yeah .. me as well. How can one ride twisty and technical roads aggressively and not down shift? I don't think manual down shifting has any bearing on front pulley wear..
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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FWIW about 50/50 for me. I like to know the auto downshift is working as designed and as mentioned above manually shifting in the twisties or for a bit of aural enjoyment.
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Very Active Member
Engine braking also aids in new engine break in by compression loading the rings. It also extends brake pad life
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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I agree about the engine break in, but consider which is cheaper: brake pads or clutch/transmission.
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Very Active Member
Who ever said that manually downshifting is causing clutch or transmission problems. This is a new one for me. I have owned 3 Spyders with SE5 or SE6and always manually downshifted and never one problem with clutch or transmission.
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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It's a very old saying, I've heard it since I was in my 20's. "Brakes are cheaper than engines and transmissions".
Just passing along old husbands' tales.
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down shifting when riding aggressively is not the problem because when riding like that you usually are back on the gas when down shifting to use the engine as a brake you are applying an opposite force on the sprocket and bolt that it was designed for there for loosening bolt or wearing teeth on sprocket
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Originally Posted by fatboy
down shifting when riding aggressively is not the problem because when riding like that you usually are back on the gas when down shifting to use the engine as a brake you are applying an opposite force on the sprocket and bolt that it was designed for there for loosening bolt or wearing teeth on sprocket
That certainly sounds reasonable, but since BRB isn't giving out any information why the sprocket/pulley bolts loosen, it's pure speculation. It could be that the bolt
wears on the sprocket/pulley and loosens due to that rather than the bolt physically turning and loosening.
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righty tighty lefty loosey
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What I was trying to say is that if the sprocket/pulley rotates a bit when, either accelerating or decelerating, which could be due to wear
of the sprocket/pulley splines, that movement could cause wear on the area of the sprocket/pulley under the head of the bolt, thus allowing
the bolt to not hold the sprocket/pulley as tightly as it should. Not due to the bolt physically loosening, but because the bolt no long clamps
the sprocket/pulley as tightly as it did before the sprocket/pulley wore under the bolt head.
As I said your answer is reasonable, but only if they actually gave a real reason behind the sprocket/pulley loosening. And if the sprocket/pulley
doesn't physically rotate then it isn't going to loosen due to the action of deceleration/acceleration on the bolt.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Possible
It's a very old saying, I've heard it since I was in my 20's. "Brakes are cheaper than engines and transmissions".
Just passing along old husbands' tales.
But, you're not hurting anything with normal engine braking.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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Originally Posted by troop
But, you're not hurting anything with normal engine braking.
I suppose not that much, but old sayings die hard. And the thought was that unnecessary engine braking just adds unneeded wear
and tear on the ancillary parts: clutches, transmissions, U-joints, differentials, etc. The thought was that you used the brakes for
what they were designed: stopping. And you used the engine and transmission for what they were designed: accelerating.
This all of course has nothing to do with engine speed matching while shifting through corners and such. Just when coming to a stop.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Possible
I suppose not that much, but old sayings die hard. And the thought was that unnecessary engine braking just adds unneeded wear
and tear on the ancillary parts: clutches, transmissions, U-joints, differentials, etc. The thought was that you used the brakes for
what they were designed: stopping. And you used the engine and transmission for what they were designed: accelerating.
This all of course has nothing to do with engine speed matching while shifting through corners and such. Just when coming to a stop.
its time to lose that thinking. motorcycle engines engine brake easier and quicker that cars / trucks. just designed to do that. if you hold that old saying to be true, you would go from gas "on", right to brake "on".............................................. ....and be wasting gas???????
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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"designed to do that"? Probably not, just a side effect of high compression and relative high gearing.
And relatively low weight.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Possible
"designed to do that"? Probably not, just a side effect of high compression and relative high gearing.
And relatively low weight.
there you go.....probably so........... so you wouldn't do any "let off the gas" and just coast be cause that would be engine braking and hurting system?
2015 Spyder RT Ltd- bUrp - only add the "U", 2010 Honda NT700V-red,2010 Honda NT700V-silver retired @201,111 miles, 1997 Honda PC800, 1996 Honda PC800, Honda CT500, Honda Shadow 500, 1978 Suzuki GS550, 1973 Suzuki TC125, other assorted smaller bikes, Suzuki TM400
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