Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    N.E. Ohio, USA
    Posts
    117
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Anti-lock brake (ABS) on 2011 Twin Manual Shift RT.

    I believe all three brake lines come together from their respective caliper and meet at the ABS junction box under the bike. I believe there is a bleeding valve at the box.

    Can I just take off the reservoir caps and open that bleeder valve to bleed the ABS system? While keeping the reservoir full. Letting fluid drip out of the junction box.

    I would have bled all the calipers first so the system was mostly clean fluid.
    Ride safe!

    2018 Spyder RT Limited

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Diego, CA.
    Posts
    31,097
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Not sure...

    But I believe you have to hook up to the BUDS system to operate the valving in that box as it controls the percentage of pressure to the front and rear callipers. The VCM and the VSS are involved in the whole system Others that have done brake bleeding should come along and better tell you the best way to do it yourself.... I just drain the system and the calipers
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    N.E. Ohio, USA
    Posts
    117
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Well Chupac I've bled the system. I have one of those deals where you have brake when you put your foot on the pedal BUT next time you touch the pedal you have a higher pedal. I'd like to get a higher, firm pedal on the first push.
    Kinda reminds me of driving some of the old cars.

    How about one of those 'speed bleeders'?
    Ride safe!

    2018 Spyder RT Limited

  4. #4
    Very Active Member bluewoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    greensburg,pa
    Posts
    540
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I always let gravity do the work because I'm always working by myself. Now with ABS it makes it very complicated and you need to follow a bleeding procedure and BRP needs the BUDDS.

    I would check for run out on the rotors as they can actually push the pad back just a little and cause the symptoms your stating.

    My 2002 Hayabusa has this issue and one rotor was bad.

    Good luck!!!!
    2021 RT LTD Petrol Blue DARK delivered 9/22/20
    New Engine @ 500 miles 4/8/21 - 5/21 due to oil leak in block
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...400-miles-HELP
    2018 RT-L , Blue

  5. #5
    Very Active Member bluewoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    greensburg,pa
    Posts
    540
    Spyder Garage
    1
    2021 RT LTD Petrol Blue DARK delivered 9/22/20
    New Engine @ 500 miles 4/8/21 - 5/21 due to oil leak in block
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...400-miles-HELP
    2018 RT-L , Blue

  6. #6
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,375
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    But I believe you have to hook up to the BUDS system to operate the valving in that box as it controls the percentage of pressure to the front and rear callipers. The VCM and the VSS are involved in the whole system Others that have done brake bleeding should come along and better tell you the best way to do it yourself.... I just drain the system and the calipers
    ..... However the amount of fluid in the ABS is soooooooooooooooooo small, if you don't bleed that, it's less than 1% of the new amount of fluid. So you decide 100% new fluid vs. 99-% of fluid. ….Not worth it IMHO …… Mike

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •