i have this happening randomly on my 2016 RT-S--- i remove cable from rear wheel--- reinstall--- so far this has worked every time. maybe 3-5 weeks between this happening... no codes.. have no fix just this bandaid... maybe someone has had dealer diagnose and permanent fix this...i carry 2- 12mm... sad reality..
let us know when/if dealer fixes...
March 20, 2019
In a follow up to the above post, regarding the parking brake. all the same conditions and beeps as previously. I have been removing it from rear wheel stay and then the front pulley is able to turn and work normal. Retighten back to factory set and have fun riding… for a while—maybe few weeks, then lock on again…remove cable…repeat. Last week, the front pulley rotated so much, no way to remove from rear mounting point. I removed the rear parking brake stay from the “hub”, and also removed the pulley wheel up front to release the cable. Dealer said may be parking brake switch, so I replaced. Now when remounting front pulley… manual states to hook up to BUDS…….Set pulley at its reference. Wondering if this was the problem all along? Bike is 2016 RT.. under warranty…except I live in Hawaii… Can am has no support in this 50th state… I can ride everyday…that’s how nice the weather is and I often do, but this type of small problem keeps the bike on jack stands!
If anyone has any insight into this I appreciate the feedback…trying to avoid dropping 1k on Buds program. If this can be fixed without it. At this point confused as to procedure. Also if anyone is has suggestions for service when far from dealer…for example… licensed shop… work on it and Can am honor warranty of their product??
Thank you all for any thoughts on this problem…seems like a defect…mmmm..
Sounds like it was just an adjustment problem from the start now has grown. I hate that you have no dealer in HI. Hopefully someone here can get you going in the right direction.
Can you check to make sure the cable is moving freely, if it’s grimy and drags it could be pulling hard enough that it can’t pull on it or retract. Motorcycle shops have a cable lubber kit for motorcycle cables that could help.
Good question, but bike is mint condition... cable works perfectly. The motor that turns the pulley wheel has a large amount of torque, that is the design.
BUDS isn't a brp exclusive software system as I understand it. Perhaps a dealer of another make would have a master license and you could talk to them about getting the brp software and working with you.
no issues as of now... many many cycles of the on/off of parking brake switch.
new problem.. will start new post... front brake vibration
thank you all for your help and understanding
Update--- i changed this part: Brake Pressure Switch Ass'y Item #710001379, and problem resolved...as of now. I will do follow up after time and miles added, so far about 250 miles... or approx 50ish cycles on parking brake on off dash switch, with normal operation!
It may have been the switch, or it may have been too tight from factory... due to fact that it rotated on to the point of no movement and locked. Had to remove cable and pulley wheel to loosen the cable and release Parking Brake....mmm... some of the engineering on the thing is amazing. Other systems... makes you wonder what was discussed at the final production meeting... "why don’t we make a parking brake that has 87 parts to it"? All those in favor, raise your hand.... "I disagree with all ya all, it should be 119 parts, why not... passed... send to production...next item.. the mirrors... all those in favor of breaking them off to remove each and every time"!!??...approved…...LOL... Love this beast, but..jeezz guys...haha
Back on the road, riding along the blue ocean in beautiful Hawaii… someone has to do it why not me?? Before you answer that, are you ok with ZERO warranty support on your beast…. I’m a rolling the dice on this… so far haven’t crapped out! Thank you everyone for the feedback and looking!
i have this happening randomly on my 2016 RT-S--- i remove cable from rear wheel--- reinstall--- so far this has worked every time. maybe 3-5 weeks between this happening... no codes.. have no fix just this bandaid... maybe someone has had dealer diagnose and permanent fix this...i carry 2- 12mm... sad reality..
let us know when/if dealer fixes...
March 20, 2019
In a follow up to the above post, regarding the parking brake. all the same conditions and beeps as previously. I have been removing it from rear wheel stay and then the front pulley is able to turn and work normal. Retighten back to factory set and have fun riding… for a while—maybe few weeks, then lock on again…remove cable…repeat. Last week, the front pulley rotated so much, no way to remove from rear mounting point. I removed the rear parking brake stay from the “hub”, and also removed the pulley wheel up front to release the cable. Dealer said may be parking brake switch, so I replaced. Now when remounting front pulley… manual states to hook up to BUDS…….Set pulley at its reference. Wondering if this was the problem all along? Bike is 2016 RT.. under warranty…except I live in Hawaii… Can am has no support in this 50th state… I can ride everyday…that’s how nice the weather is and I often do, but this type of small problem keeps the bike on jack stands!
If anyone has any insight into this I appreciate the feedback…trying to avoid dropping 1k on Buds program. If this can be fixed without it. At this point confused as to procedure. Also if anyone is has suggestions for service when far from dealer…for example… licensed shop… work on it and Can am honor warranty of their product??
Thank you all for any thoughts on this problem…seems like a defect…mmmm..
The other day I made an emergence stop and locked up my brakes. This resulted in the caliper shifting, the parking brake cable shredding, the parking brake front pulley breaking and the Brake Pressure Switch Ass'y broken. Also, the caliper shifted far enough to hit and break the Axle Adjustment Support. Bike is 2016 RT special edition. I have all the replacement parts but I'm concerned about replacing the front pulley without buds, can you share how you replaced the pulley and switch?
If you look at the picture of the caliper you notice that the Rear Caliper Support (plate with the slot) is pointed down. That slot is for a lug mounted on the insde of the swing arm to fit into which would lock the caliper in place. I'm assuming that plate was not aligned properly when I changed the tire and the force from locking up the brake was enough to spin the whole assembly out of place.
What I would ask is what in God's earth would make you hit the e brake switch to stop faster!!! Instead of just holding down the foot peddle hard and keeping it down, and letting the abs to do it's thing, I know it's a hard thing for us old farts to do because we were not trained that way 40 plus years to do that because there was no such thing as ABS then!! I am surprised that the whole brake assembly even stayed on the bike!!! Hope no one was hurt in this whole thing!!! WOW
I assumed emergency stop was try to stomp the brake pedal into the ground. I would never have even considered using
the "Parking Brake". That's why I was confused as to how the caliper shifted. Live and learn.
I think you are reading something 'between the lines' that just isn't there, Mikey!!
From what I read, this was all down to Gruncle simply stomping on the brake pedal hard enough to lock up the wheel (momentarily) & then before the ABS could kick in, everything moved as you can see, producing the resulting damage - didn't it?? Did you actually use the Park Brake in your attempt to stop Gruncle??
I certainly didn't take any more than that from what you wrote anyway, and I'm pretty sure that the park brake simply WILL NOT ACTIVATE at a speed any greater than about 6 mph (anyone know what speed it is for sure?? I don't have a manual handy atm?!? ) so it certainly appears to be all down to that Slot on the Rear Caliper Support Plate not being properly engaged with the Lug on the Swing Arm - so effectively the caliper wasn't held in any way to stop rotation on application by anything but the friction between the swing arms & the washers on the wheel bearings applied when who-ever tightened the axle bolt on re-assembly after replacing the rear wheel last!
That highlights a potential trap for anyone changing out the rear wheel - if you don't get that slot on the Rear Caliper Support Plate & the Lug on the Swing Arm located & engaged properly, your brakes simply won't be able to operate at their fullest capacity if that is ever required!! So even tho I've been lucky enough to have avoided this problem so far with any of the 'really quite a few' rear wheel changes I've done to date, from now on in I'm gonna be TRIPLE checking that the Slot & Lug are fully engaged before finishing the rear wheel change & releasing the Spyder!!
What you've showed us Gruncle has really driven home the need to ensure that Rear Caliper Support Plate Slot & the Lug are aligned and fully engaged BEFORE, DURING, & AFTER any tightening of the rear axle occurs!! Thanks for the timely post, but this doesn't help you get that info about replacing the pulley & switch without BUDS, does it?!
I haven't needed to do that, so I'm sorry, I can't help there. Good Luck tho! And I'm glad that your emergency stop worked well enough to avoid any worse damage or injury, altho what it did do is certainly enlightening!
Ah, now I understand, basically looking at improper assembly by not making sure the caliper was secured.
My stepson did something similar with a Harley, mounted the caliper with the securing arm above the lug rather
than under. Worked okay until he tried to stop rolling backwards, caliper rotated and tore lines loose. Oops.
Peters explanations is right on, I never activated the parking brake, just stood on the brake pedal to avoid a car. And he is also right that so far no info about replacing the parking brake front pulley without BUDS. Hopefully someone with see the thread and give some instructions, I really don't want to take a guest for the pulley proper mounting and then tear things up again so in the mean time I'll put every thing back together without the pulley and use a block of wood for a parking brake. I already replaced the Brake Pressure Switch, major hassle, all the Tupperware on the right side has to come off to access the wire connector!
After reading the mounting instructions in the Spyder service manual for installing the parking brake front pulley three more times I went ahead and installed it and then activated the parking brake several times without the cable attached to observe the operation of the pulley and the brake pressure switch. Everything looked good and I felt confident that I had the correct alignment on the pulley so I connected the brake cable and activated the parking brake a half dozen times. The parking brake functioned as it should. I took the bike out for a short twenty mile run and everything is good, no limp mode, no trouble lights, so no trip to the dealer for a BUDS reset. Don’t you just love a happy ending :>)
I took my 2015 Spyder Rt Special Series to the dealer for the 4th time due to my parking brake locking up. The 3 previous times I was told they can't find the problem after test riding it. This time they called and said the motor is bad and needs to be replaced. $587. I was also told that BRP is aware of the problem and since it was out of warranty I have to pay for it. Sounds to me like it was a defective product, they are aware of it and won't stand by their product no matter that it's out of warranty. There should have been a recall issued and corrected.
2016 spyder rt parking brake locking
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Originally Posted by JOEMOTO
