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  1. #1
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    Default Trouble Shooting

    Went to start bike today (2012 RTL) after having on battery tender all winter and it will not even turn over. The dash panel lights up and is showing a red explantion mark. I looked this up in operators manual and it says EBD fault. What is EBD fault.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    How old is your battery? Evan a battery tender will not keep a weak or old battery going.

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    Paul

    2012 RT L
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  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Here's the lowdown....

    EBD = Electronic Brakeforce Distribution..... a sub of the VSS (vehicle stability system) and explained as the combination of all the braking systems used.

    Now basically you need to check all the braking such as fluids, pads, switches, resivoirs etc but will not solve the not starting part of your inquiry....as stated above if the drain is more than the input of the tender battery will not start the spyder. Try a jump start or have the battery load tested to start with.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  4. #4
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    Just checked, battery is 3 yr old. Iam going to take battery out and load check it. May be time for new battery.

  5. #5
    Active Member RICZ's Avatar
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    When I want to start a bike or Spyder in cold weather, I place a room heater with a fan near the engine at least an hour prior. That warms not only the engine, but the oil, starter and battery. This makes the startup a lot easier on those components.
    Our batteries are relatively small, yet are required to crank a big engine. Sometimes, hitting the starter is too much of a shock to the battery and can blow an internal connection. Giving it some heat is neat!
    Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.

  6. #6
    Active Member kdp1308's Avatar
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    Most battery tenders tend to cook batteries over the winter. If your battery is bad that is probably what happened. Try using a CTEK charger that is made for AMG batteries. If you live in a very cold climate they make one called polar.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayHawker View Post
    Went to start bike today (2012 RTL) after having on battery tender all winter and it will not even turn over. The dash panel lights up and is showing a red explantion mark. I looked this up in operators manual and it says EBD fault. What is EBD fault.
    Yeah, but it should still start / turn over. Did you flip the kill switch to RUN?


    Doug

    2012 Spyder RT LTD Lava Bronze, RT 622

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  8. #8
    Active Member GOZFST's Avatar
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    If you have a Volt/Ohm meter hook it up ro the battery you should have around 12.8 v at rest, then with it still connected try to start it and check the voltage. If it drops bellow 12 your battery is toast.
    Bob S

  9. #9
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    There are a few things that might be contributing to this issue.... the battery, the tendency of battery tenders to hide aging batteries until they are beyond help, maybe even the Kill switch (but that shouldn't give you the symbol on the dash?) & many others, including the fact that these Spyder things we ride (especially the semi-auto's) are really picky about the brakes working properly & in some circumstances, the need for you to have your foot on the brake pedal when you hit the starter...

    Then there's the fact that during service, Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air & anything else it comes in contact with. That is especially so in our Spyders, where it really tends to go gluggy over time! That gluggy brake fluid is why the service schedule calls for its fairly frequent replacement! In most instances, it wants that done way more often than needed for your car!! So I wonder if the brake fluid could have gone gluggy enough for it to have gummed up the brake switch &/or the EBD or anything else in the brake system ??

    It's that pedal activated switch signal that is used by the computers that control just about everything about our Spyders. Keep your foot too near the pedal & the slightest frequent touch can cause your Spyder to throw a wobbly & no go! Forget to depress the pedal when trying to start & no go! Gum the switch up with road grime enough for it to stick on juuust enough to trigger the light, & no go! Wear the pads that extra poofteenth of an inch more so that the fluid level in the master cylinder drops a tiny fraction, and your Spyder throws a brake failure code & no go!

    That last one usually just takes the addition of about a half a teaspoonful more fluid into the low master cylinder to solve it, but it's those & a fair few others that help us realise the brakes are really considered critical by the 'all-controlling computers' on our Spyders!! So maybe that 'fluid gone gluggy' thing has raised its head in this case, & a change of fluid could solve the problem?!? Or maybe it's just that some rodent's made a winter meal of some of the wire's hidden under the tupperware & the EBD warning is just one of the computers trying to tell you that the wiring is somewhat stuffed down there?!

    I hope some of the ideas in this thread help you to get it sorted quickly.... it's the wrong end of your ryding season to find a difficult to trace problem! But I s'pose finding it now is better'n finding it when it happens a few hundred miles from home on your first long ryde of the season! Anyhow, Good Luck with sorting it, I do hope it's a quick & easy fix!
    2013 RT Ltd

  10. #10
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    Got the battery out and it seems to be dead. Got buddy who has battery load tester, he is coming by my house in the morning.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member Zip's Avatar
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    When the battery is weak you get all kinds of false bad messages on your bike
    2010 RTSM5


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kdp1308 View Post
    Most battery tenders tend to cook batteries over the winter.
    No they don't.

    Most cheap trickle chargers will do that but any "smart" automatic battery maintainer (tender) should NOT be a problem.
    If it is, it's broken and needs to be replaced.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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