Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Portsmouth VA
    Posts
    366
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default 2010 RT S Lumpy Idle

    I've had this bike for about a year and a half and have put probably 3-4k miles on it. It's never had what I would consider a really smooth idle, I've always chocked that up to it being a V twin. Lately though I've noticed it seems to be idling a bit rougher, I can detect a miss every 5-10 seconds when sitting at a stop light. The bike sat for a few months from Dec to about Feb after I had surgery, but I started it up and ran it hot several times during that period. I also put stabilizer in the gas for the ethanol and also have run some seafoam in the tank.

    I did some searching on this site and read though posts on canisters and vacuum hoses. I checked and it doesn't look like its posted any codes. Any ideas where to start? Do these 998 engines normally idle very smoothly or are the inherently lumpy like Harleys?

    Thanks in advance.

    Bob
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Nashville, TN, Apache Junction, AZ
    Posts
    3,791
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I Suspect it's either, or both vacuum hoses and spark plugs and plug wires. The twins tend to go through the stock hoses and it's hard to visually see the problem. The spark plug wires from the factory are poor even when new so do yourself a favor and get the better wires and new plugs from BajaRon. You can get the silacon hoses from an auto parts store. I do not know the correct size, but a search will pull that up as others who have done this have posted the size needed.
    2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?
    2015 F3S , White & Blue

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Durham,Maine
    Posts
    3,652
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    x1
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  4. #4
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Portsmouth VA
    Posts
    366
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I worked on the bike today installing the heat scoops https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...81#post1427581 and while I had the panels off, I looked at the vacuum hoses to see what they looked like. I pinched one and didn't see any cracking, I may still go in and replace them as well as the spark plug wires. But I also had a new air filter and figured it was time to try and install it. It was not the easiest job, and I took some pics to hopefully help anybody else who tries to do it.

    The top of the airbox has to come off. Not so much to get the old filter out, but it helps to visualize where it is. It had some oil on the inside, from what I read that is normal. I cleaned it out with some paper towels. Once all the clips are loose you can lift it up a bit and then slide it out on one side. I pulled it out on the right side, which was probably the correct side as there is a piece of plastic that sticks up and would drag the underside of the insulation above it.





    Once its out you can see the back side of the filter:



    To get the filter out, you have to pop the three clips and then push one side forward and out, exposing the filter. You have to loosen the panel that surrounds the fog lights to give enough clearance to pull it all the way out. I dont have pics of that since I needed both hands to hold it open and pull. The top clip gets in the way, so if you can remove it completely, it gives you enough room to open the front of the housing.

    Going back in you can push the new filter in but so far. At a certain point you have to use the left hand and go through the air box and push the other side in with your fingers. That takes a bit of doing but it eventually went all the way in. Then snap the 3 clips back and re-secure the panel.



    Once the bike was back together, it seems to idle a bit better. Still some missing, but not as bad. The old filter didnt look that bad but might have had enough fine dirt to restrict flow. In any event I'm happy I got it done. I'll look into getting the plug wires and vac lines and will update this thread when I get them done.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,579
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    ... It had some oil on the inside, from what I read that is normal...
    Normal, Yes. Right, No.

    There should be no oil in your air box. It belongs in the crank case. But the crank case breather is notorious for failing to control oil migration into the air box. I highly recommend a little system that is cheap, easy to install and has worked extremely well for me all these years/miles.

    CrankCaseBreatherMod.jpg

    If you'd like more information, let me know.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  6. #6
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Portsmouth VA
    Posts
    366
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Normal, Yes. Right, No.

    There should be no oil in your air box. It belongs in the crank case. But the crank case breather is notorious for failing to control oil migration into the air box. I highly recommend a little system that is cheap, easy to install and has worked extremely well for me all these years/miles.

    CrankCaseBreatherMod.jpg

    If you'd like more information, let me know.
    Yes, let me know about what you have for the breather as well as the spark plug wires and vac hoses.

    Thanks.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,579
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eviltwin View Post
    Yes, let me know about what you have for the breather as well as the spark plug wires and vac hoses.

    Thanks.
    I can give you the parts list and instructions for the breather. They are readily available and easy to obtain locally. For the vacuum hoses, just take them to an auto parts store and match them up with their bulk stock. You can get information on my ignition wire set on my banner ad page with the link below. I am still updating this page but most everything has been completed. Scroll down to the ignition wire section.
    https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rs-amp-Helmets

    You can always email me directly at fyredad@hotmail.com for questions.

    Hope this helps.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  8. #8
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Stetson, Maine
    Posts
    1,592
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    One other area you should check, your purge valve. If it is not working correctly it will also idle like crap. bruce
    New to Sue and I
    2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
    Gone but not forgotten
    RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles


  9. #9
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,579
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by safecracker View Post
    One other area you should check, your purge valve. If it is not working correctly it will also idle like crap. bruce
    The permanant cure for the purge valve (and evap canister) is the Canister-Ectomy. A very worth-while, easy and cheap mod. Highly recommended.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  10. #10
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    san antonio texas
    Posts
    34
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have a 2012 rt and a few months ago it started Idling really rough , RPMs were from 900 to 1800 rpms , It sounded like it was gonna die , so I poured some Techron complete fuel system and fixed it and still running strong, just my experience on my SpyderCapture1.JPG

  11. #11
    Active Member Eviltwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Portsmouth VA
    Posts
    366
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stevo62 View Post
    I have a 2012 rt and a few months ago it started Idling really rough , RPMs were from 900 to 1800 rpms , It sounded like it was gonna die , so I poured some Techron complete fuel system and fixed it and still running strong, just my experience on my SpyderCapture1.JPG
    I might give that a try. I have put some seafoam in it, incremental improvements.
    2019 BMW C650GT, 2010 Spyder RT-S, 2009 BMW R1200RT,(sold) 2009 Honda Silverwing (Sold), 2009 Kawasaki 500 Vulcan (Sold)

    \
    2010 RT SE5 , Black

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •