According to the wiring diagram. The fuel level function has 2 wires from the gauge cluster to the fuel pump. No connectors or junctions in between. That narrows it down to the connector on the back of gauge cluster, connector on the fuel pump or defective fuel pump.
It might be that the float in the gas tank has gone bad.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights 2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
Sounds like the sender in the tank has lost its float! That means that the float/sensor will always be sitting on the bottom of the tank, & the gauge will always show empty - just as you've described! Or it could be that the wiring that does the level sensing has shorted out right down close to the bottom end of the scale - same result!
Either problem, it basically means the tank has to come out, or at the very least the tank needs to be unbolted & carefully wriggled sideways, most of the way out on the right side of the frame, far enough to allow full access to the top of the fuel pump/sender unit; but whatever you end up doing, it is NOT an easy task!! Then you have to remove the pump/sender from the tank before you can even see what the real problem might be! Still, once you've got it out, it's usually a whole lot easier to replace the complete pump/sender unit with a new one rather than 1. - fiddling around trying to fix just the one broken/shorted sender wire amongst what looks like hundreds of wires stacked in on top of each other; or 2. - fiddling around removing & then replacing the little bits of plastic holding the float.... Mind you, after you've sweated over getting access to &/or removing the tank from the frame, taking the pump/sender out seems sooo easy as you do it, a simple press & turn..... but that easy bit is only to lull you into a false sense of relief, cos getting the replacement unit back in there is often freakin' bloody hard, and then once you've skun your knuckles & drawn blood doing that, you've still gotta get the bleedin' tank back into the frame &/or in position without breaking anything on it, the Spyder, or yourself!! And doing that is even more challenging than it was getting it all out!!
Have you got a good dealer/service tech nearby?? Taking it to them might just be the best thing for all concerned, including your neighbours & your suburb/extended family too!!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-11-2019 at 08:18 PM.
According to the wiring diagram. The fuel level function has 2 wires from the gauge cluster to the fuel pump. No connectors or junctions in between. That narrows it down to the connector on the back of gauge cluster, connector on the fuel pump or defective fuel pump.
If the fuel pump was defective ie. NOT pumping gas ….how could the engine run ????? ……………..Mike
Try one of those flexible snake cameras down the filler neck & maybe a properly bent coat hanger to move the float if it's attached to sender arm, all while looking at the dash don't forget the hokey pokey
(NO SPARKS!!!)
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
Methinks I'd start easy. disconnect the wiring connectors and clean them. Plug them back and look at what happens.
Unless the fuel tank is completely empty and then thoroughly vented, I would be extremely cautious about sticking steel objects that could spark into the tank. I believe copper wire would be better than a steel coat hanger.
If the fuel pump was defective ie. NOT pumping gas ….how could the engine run ????? ……………..Mike
I am not sure how you got the idea that I said or meant the fuel pump was not pumping fuel. The fuel level mechanism is part of the fuel pump. So if it is broke. Replace the fuel pump.