Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

[BajaRon]

Every so often I get questioned about doing a Canister-Ectomy on the V-Twin, 998cc versions of the Spyder. So I thought I'd detail it here in the hopes that it will help someone. This process removes both the Fuel Vapor Canister and the problematic Purge Valve (one is remove, the other incapacitated.

While the Evap-Fuel Vapor Canister issues were more prominent on the earlier models. 2008-2012, this general procedure will also work on the later models. Done correctly, this will eliminate all fuel smells and the potential fire hazard that these present when not functioning properly. Plus, it will eliminate any issues with filling your fuel tank all the way to the top. This can give you up to 30+ miles extended range on your 998 Spyder, depending on how you are filling it now. There is a small triangle at the top of your fuel gauge. Most have never seen it because most have never actually filled their fuel tank. It is interesting that BRP has the 'Full Mark' on the gauge and then tells you not to fill it all the way up.

Removing the vapor recovery canister system will also save you a little on maintenance costs.

The diagram below is of the earlier 2008-2012 models. BRP made some minor modifications to this system on the 2013 and later models. But the major components are the same and the general Canister-Ectomy process applies. This is a simple and inexpensive modification.

Referring to the diagram below. Once you remove the fuel vapor recovery canister located on the right side of the Spyder, behind the Tupperware (#21), you are left with 2 hoses, (#19 & #24). Hose #23 is just a vent to outside air and goes away with the canister.

Taking care of Hose #24. This is your fuel tank vent hose, which is required. You need to route and zip tie this hose back along the right side frame to somewhere about mid rear fender. You want to route this vent hose (#3) upward from the fuel tank until it naturally begins to descend to the exit point. This will happen automatically if you follow the frame tube to the back. The existing hose is not long enough to get this far back so you will need to purchase an appropriately sized hose barb (Pictured Below) and another length of hose to extend it. These can be found at any auto parts or lawnmower shop. While you are there get a small fuel filter similar to the one pictured. I like the clear ones so you can see what is going on at the end of your vent hose, but virtually any version will do.

Insert the fuel filter at the end of the fuel tank vent hose you've routed to the rear of your Spyder. Mount it horizontally as pictured. This will keep any foreign substance from entering the vent hose and will also serve to give you indication if any liquid fuel is being pushed through the vent hose as it will collect at the bottom of this filter. This will tell you if you have installed the vent hose correctly. You can clamp these fittings if you like. But it is not necessary. I did not clamp any of mine. A good tight fit is more than sufficient.

Some have run this hose over the engine to the front of the Spyder, I am assuming with decent results. This may be a bit easier. However, I do not like the idea of running a fuel vapor hose over a hot engine to vent in front of the rider. If there are any fumes, or raw fuel, I would rather have it go out the back.

Canister-Ectomy1.jpg Canilster-Ectomy2.jpg

Taking care of Hose #19. This hose connects to your purge valve, (#18) and then to the intake side of your engine via hose (#22). There are a number of ways you can deal with this. I've found it easiest to simply put an appropriately sized, 1/2 long or so, bolt with some silicone sealer into hose (#19) leaving the rest of the system in place. But whatever you do, you will need to seal this system so no air can enter, either before or after the Purge Valve (#18). I recommend simply leaving the purge valve in and plugging the hose on the intake side. Do not leave this hose open no matter which way you intend to complete this portion of the removal process.

As always. You can hover you mouse pointer over a picture and it will enlarge for better detail.

Canister-Ectomy.jpg

[Haze]

Ron,
Thanks for the clear and concise details.
I have the parts and will be doing the canisterectomy
along with my "Spring Service" later this week.
Just needed a push to get me started.
Cheers, David C.

[Grandpot]

My 2011 RTS developed a slight throttle surging when cruising. It wasn't serious, but very annoying. The Canisterectomy cured it 100%.

[BajaRon]

If nothing else, doing this Canister-Ectomy will give you piece of mind. It will avoid any future issues and can solve some current problems. The smell is gone, the potential hazard is gone, and you can fill your fuel tank to the top without worry. Cheap, easy, and well worth the effort.

[Chupaca]

Always good to have clear instructions for these changes. I know the question comes up from time to time and the twins are still out there....

[JerryB]

Hi Ron,

Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

I just finished doing this to my '08 GS.

Purge Valve Line)

I simply cut it off right where it entered the canister. I took a 5/16” bolt, wrapped it with teflon tape as used in plumbing, ran the bolt in & secured with a worm drive clamp.

I then secured it to the frame with two zip ties; in white in this photo:

Cani-i-2.jpg


Fuel Filter)

You will note in the above photo that I moved the line from the fuel tank upward so that the line is routed above where it goes into the fuel tank.

In the lower left of the above photo is where I secured the fuel line to the frame. I use white zip ties whenever doing things like this as they are easy to see/find if I should need to remove them in the future.

Here is the filter almost vertical:

Cani-i-3.jpg


Line Routing)

Here where I terminated it. It is turned down slightly so any gas should readily drip onto the ground.

Cani-i-4.jpg

Jerry Baumchen

PS) This is the fuel filter that I bought. It comes with various size fittings for different sizes of hose. I used 1/4” fittings & 1/4” hose. It is a Mr. Gasket product, #9706; bought at a local auto parts store:

Cani-c.jpg


Cani-d.jpg

And by installing the filter directly into the line from the gas tank I did not need this:

a.jpg

[JerryB]

Hi folks,

Re: Canister-Ectomy - 2008-2016 SM5/SE5

One additional bit of info. I replaced my fuel filter at the same time as I did the Canister-ectomy. One thing to know is that the clamp that holds the fuel filter in place does not have a captive nut on the back side.

If you simply remove the bolt that you can see:

Cani-i-1.JPG

the nut will fall away; quite possibly in one of those black voids, never to be seen again.

I used a 10 mm box end wrench to hold the nut & then VERY carefully removed it.

Jerry Baumchen

[SERGIU]

Hi,

I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

Sergiu.

[BajaRon]

Hi,

I want to do this procedure to my 2008 Spyder with only 350km on board, but I saw the final part on the hose above the exhaust pipe and this is NOT a good idea!

I will go to the front of the bike, put the hose in a thermal plastic near the engine, I hope this is better.

Sergiu.

I recommend running the vent hose up along the right frame tube (sitting on the Spyder) to the back and terminate under the rear fender. The vent tube originates near the right front of the tank. If you have any fumes at all they will exit behind you rather than in front of you. And you avoid being anywhere near the engine, as you will if you go forward. This also keeps the entire vent tube above the fuel tank except for where you go downhill at the very end. This way there is no possibility of any fuel pooling along the way. I put a clear, lawnmower fuel filter (like the one pictured below) at the end of the vent hose so that I can check to see if any liquid fuel is going out and to keep anything from getting in. This has been done many ways. But I still think this is the better way to go.

FuelFilter.jpg

[jayallday01]

All good posts.

I think the procedure is basically set with a variance or two. I put my fuel filter between Hose #24 and a hose that was already routed underneath the Spyder vs the fuel filter at the end of #24. its all zip tied to the frame and away from the engine. I am sure it will work just the same. So far the surging/bucking and gas smell are eliminated. Thank you to everyone, past and present, for the instructional posts.

[donhy]

Thanks for the write-up BajaRon, just had mine done.

[donhy]

Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Is vasectomy just as easy ? I need that done next or i risk loosing my spyder

Just a heads - up ….. REMOVING the cannister Might make your Spyder Un-inspectable …… Go to my Albums , I posted pics - labeled " Gas smell Fix " there is a written explanation ( if you enlarge the pic ) of how to cure the problem and leave the cannister in …… Mike

[PatrickH]

Hello BlueKnight911,
I found your Gas Smell Fix photo. Thanks for posting it.
I'm trying to figure out how to do this procedure to my 1330cc 2014 RT LTD. What year/model bike is your Gas Smell Photo?
Looking at my service manual, it appears to me as though I'd have to remove the seat, the trunk, and saddlebags just to get to the plumbing you worked on for my 2014 RT. Do you know (or anyone else reading this) know whether I'm reading my manual correctly? Does anyone know of photos for a canister-ectomy for a 1330cc RT?
Regards, Patrick

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hello BlueKnight911,
I found your Gas Smell Fix photo. Thanks for posting it.
I'm trying to figure out how to do this procedure to my 1330cc 2014 RT LTD. What year/model bike is your Gas Smell Photo?
Looking at my service manual, it appears to me as though I'd have to remove the seat, the trunk, and saddlebags just to get to the plumbing you worked on for my 2014 RT. Do you know (or anyone else reading this) know whether I'm reading my manual correctly? Does anyone know of photos for a canister-ectomy for a 1330cc RT?
Regards, Patrick

GAS smell foto was on my 08 GS and then I did the same for my 2012 RSS both had the V-twin engine .....Hi, I also have a 14 RT .... I have never had any gas odor even on 100 F day ...... BRP did a major re-route of those lines for the 1330 models and I don't remember reading of them being an issue for them on this forum ..... Mike ..

[Bangorbob]

I know this is kinda of old thread, but I thought I would add/bring it up again. Took a 50 mile ride to and from Las Vegas. Parked in the garage and left the door open for about 15 minutes. Checked the oil level (pita). Anyway the wife opened up the garage door again because of gas smell. I have NOT done the mod yet. I assume it is time.
Secondly I ain't never seen the triangle on the gauge and can't seem to get the tank full.

[JerryB]

Hi donhy,

Re: Is vasectomy just as easy ?

Actually, much easier; I did not have to do any work.

Jerry Baumchen

[philbtv]

06AAAA71-F142-4D42-8F4B-DF8EACD73B1A.jpg
Hey look! I can see the little triangle at the top of the fuel gage-that I never saw until I did my canisterectomy. Another added bonus! Thanks Ron and Jerry for all the help!

[Upcoaster]

Does anyone recall the diameter info for hose #24 and the coupler? I want to make sure I pick up the proper supplies for extending it down the frame a bit (as instructed).
It would be nice to have the right stuff on hand before I begin.

Thanks in advance!

[krakum1967]

Thanks for the write up on this, definitely something I need to do before the riding season kicks in full time.

[Bangorbob]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

[BajaRon]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

All Spyders have the evap canister. It is a federal, nation wide, requirement. Sorry, I do not remember the vent hose size. But 1/4" is probably in the ball park.

[KX5062]

I have read about this and was trying to find the hose size, which I think is 1/4. I believe the fuel filters are 5/16. While looking at the illistrated parts breakdown I noticed that there is California models and non-California. My 2012 RT was purchased in Ca and I brought it to Nevada. Is this procedure the same for both Ca and Non-Ca bikes?

Thanks, Bob

I did it on my old 2008 Commiefornia edition and it was the same. And, I will add that it DID make a big difference. DO IT!

[Skathe57]

Thank you all for this thread and comments nice to see everyone's little pieces of wisdom if not before this will be done this winter when she is put away for awhile. anybody have any warnings about the sequential led turn signals for the front fenders from sling mods that was the other thing i had in mind for this off season. thanks again

[krakum1967]

Doing this change this week since I have it skinned for the new air intake and filter. Get it done since its down, than I can start on the Xenon light kit, and handle bar risers..