To me, that looks to be just the surface rust that all vehicles tend to develop sooner or later.
Have you been ryding near the coast, or on previously salted roads, or even just in an area that is or was once near a salt lake or two? Altho it might not look fantastic, that 'surface rust' stuff will often serve to stop any more serious rust problems developing in the areas afflicted with it, cos the light coating like that you see there effectively seals the metal away from any further more damaging oxidisation!
Hate to say this and I am sure I will get beat up for it, but when you buy a bike for 10 grand you are going to see things not so well done. Time and materials are money! That weld that was shown looks like some one had done a repair, no spatter removal no sand blasting and the paint looks like they used a spray bomb. To put a produce out for a lower price your are going to sacrifice some where along the line. Going from a nice powder coat to a enamel paint for instance! It happens sorry!!
Hate to say this and I am sure I will get beat up for it, but when you buy a bike for 10 grand you are going to see things not so well done. Time and materials are money! That weld that was shown looks like some one had done a repair, no spatter removal no sand blasting and the paint looks like they used a spray bomb. To put a produce out for a lower price your are going to sacrifice some where along the line. Going from a nice powder coat to a enamel paint for instance! It happens sorry!!
Not going to beat you But. I have a 2013 NC700X paid $7000. for it. To this day no rust, all the plastic fit and finish is great. I have a Ryker 900ace ( also a 2016 F3T ) I think it's a great bike. So far the finish is good I have no complaints on the plastic at all. If thing start to rust and are to brake, it will go back to the dealer and let them work it out with BRP. $10,000. is still a lot of money to me.
I don't think the price point has anything to do with the picture of that crappy weld job. Looks more like a QC problem with BRP, the vendor or both. I'm sure BRP contracts out parts and that includes (welded assemblies) to vendors. This one slipped through the cracks for whatever reason. Personally, I'd return the bike to the dealer and ask that the "part" or bike be replaced.
I don't think the price point has anything to do with the picture of that crappy weld job. Looks more like a QC problem with BRP, the vendor or both. I'm sure BRP contracts out parts and that includes (welded assemblies) to vendors. This one slipped through the cracks for whatever reason. Personally, I'd return the bike to the dealer and ask that the "part" or bike be replaced.
What a weld looks like and how well it is bonded may not go hand-in-hand. I have seen beautiful welds with no penetration fall apart with a smack of a hammer. I have seen ugly welds that you tear metal before you break the weld, which is what should always happen. If that was on my Spyder in an inconspicuous place, I would not worry about it. If it affects the aesthetics because it is exposed, then I might complain. The dealer is not going to replace the part or the bike just because a weld is ugly to the customer. If you don't like it, then you should use your new knowledge to either inspect the welds more closely on your next purchase, or move onto another brand that satisfies your QC criteria better.
As far as rust goes, then that could be another story. I don't think BRP warrants anything on the paint like a car manufacturer does, so good luck with that too. As mentioned, I would ask the dealer to do something just to keep you as a customer, but if they are not bound by BRP warranty guidelines, they may not do anything. And, comparing Indiana bikes to Texas bikes is like apples and oranges. The roads in Indiana are white with salt residue, so if I would choose to ride during the winter months, I would wash it frequently (especially the undercarriage), just like getting your car washed more frequently and making sure you do an undercarriage wash too. Have you looked at the undercarriage in your car lately? I'll bet you find some surface rust if you look hard enough, and I'll bet you find some unattractive welds too.
What a weld looks like and how well it is bonded may not go hand-in-hand. I have seen beautiful welds with no penetration fall apart with a smack of a hammer. I have seen ugly welds that you tear metal before you break the weld, which is what should always happen. If that was on my Spyder in an inconspicuous place, I would not worry about it. If it affects the aesthetics because it is exposed, then I might complain. The dealer is not going to replace the part or the bike just because a weld is ugly to the customer. If you don't like it, then you should use your new knowledge to either inspect the welds more closely on your next purchase, or move onto another brand that satisfies your QC criteria better.
As far as rust goes, then that could be another story. I don't think BRP warrants anything on the paint like a car manufacturer does, so good luck with that too. As mentioned, I would ask the dealer to do something just to keep you as a customer, but if they are not bound by BRP warranty guidelines, they may not do anything. And, comparing Indiana bikes to Texas bikes is like apples and oranges. The roads in Indiana are white with salt residue, so if I would choose to ride during the winter months, I would wash it frequently (especially the undercarriage), just like getting your car washed more frequently and making sure you do an undercarriage wash too. Have you looked at the undercarriage in your car lately? I'll bet you find some surface rust if you look hard enough, and I'll bet you find some unattractive welds too.
Just my thoughts.
I'm sure your right about the part being replaced. I bought a backrest for my Harley years ago that was an OEM HD part. When I got it home and unboxed it had some seriously bad welds that had been chromed over and one of the bolts only had 1/2 the head. I took it back to the dealer and they basically said, sorry but you'll have to contact HD. So, I contacted HD directly. What did they say. Not much of anything. They didn't care any more than the dealer did.
So, its not an issue just for BRP. But still I'd complain about it for sure. The fact the paint is coming off (at least it looks that way in the picture) would not sit well with me. I would think that's more than just surface rust (or will be in time).
That said, yes by all means keep your bike off salty roads. That's impossible in the NorthEast as well. Damn salt eats everything!
As I mentioned before on this forum, I traded down from a Spyder ST Limited 2015 - MSRP of roughly $25000. So far, I am thrilled with the Ryker Rally Edition. From a quality standpoint , fit and finish, I am a happy camper. The only 2 plastic pieces that I will be careful with as they appear to be breakable will be the sliding gas port cover and the parking brake lever. I am pleased with the quality of everything else.
What a weld looks like and how well it is bonded may not go hand-in-hand. I have seen beautiful welds with no penetration fall apart with a smack of a hammer. I have seen ugly welds that you tear metal before you break the weld, which is what should always happen. If that was on my Spyder in an inconspicuous place, I would not worry about it. If it affects the aesthetics because it is exposed, then I might complain. The dealer is not going to replace the part or the bike just because a weld is ugly to the customer. If you don't like it, then you should use your new knowledge to either inspect the welds more closely on your next purchase, or move onto another brand that satisfies your QC criteria better.
As far as rust goes, then that could be another story. I don't think BRP warrants anything on the paint like a car manufacturer does, so good luck with that too. As mentioned, I would ask the dealer to do something just to keep you as a customer, but if they are not bound by BRP warranty guidelines, they may not do anything. And, comparing Indiana bikes to Texas bikes is like apples and oranges. The roads in Indiana are white with salt residue, so if I would choose to ride during the winter months, I would wash it frequently (especially the undercarriage), just like getting your car washed more frequently and making sure you do an undercarriage wash too. Have you looked at the undercarriage in your car lately? I'll bet you find some surface rust if you look hard enough, and I'll bet you find some unattractive welds too.
Just my thoughts.
...… as an example with Radial tires, one that looks low may actually have the exact pressure the tire needs , looks can be deceiving. I know someone who welded on the Alaska pipeline. He said He saw - what looked like " perfect welds " -FAIL …. magnafluxing (?) " tests..... I weld and they aren't always perfect " looking ", but they survive TBH tests...….. Those paint issues are troubling tho …… IMHO sand them to make sure there is little or only slight rust , then use a rust inhibitor, ( quality type ) …. then paint to suit …… Mike
...… as an example with Radial tires, one that looks low may actually have the exact pressure the tire needs , looks can be deceiving. I know someone who welded on the Alaska pipeline. He said He saw - what looked like " perfect welds " -FAIL …. magnafluxing (?) " tests..... I weld and they aren't always perfect " looking ", but they survive TBH tests...….. Those paint issues are troubling tho …… IMHO sand them to make sure there is little or only slight rust , then use a rust inhibitor, ( quality type ) …. then paint to suit …… Mike
this is what I was thinking I’ll clean them up with a drimel and then put a rust inhibitor on it and then I will get out my airbrush
Welds where the front shocks attach to frame are rusting as well - any suggestion for when to be concerned with that?. there are spots of rust throughout the frame as well that are just annoying.
We aligned a Ryker in Louisiana, I believe he was from KY, and he had pkenty of rust in the hubs and elsewhere.
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I live in Quebec, Canada and have been biking for 50 years or so and I would always wait till after the first good rain storm of spring to wash the salt and sand off the roads. It is tempting to ride early but it comes at a cost. On a 3 wheeler it is rust and on a 2 wheeler it can be rust as well as parts because you had a wipe out in a puddle whose bottom was still ice.