Need hitch and harness advice for Lee-sure Lite

[gnorthern]

I took advantage of Lee-sure Lite's NAFTA sale and ordered a trailer. What type of hitch and wiring harness/controller should I get? I have an F3-T, and I know it takes it own hitch.

From past posts it looks like the Can-Am hitch is the way to go. However the dealer says it comes with a round interface on the wiring harness that only works with the Can-Am trailer. Lees-ure Lite said they could wire up that harness but it would be super expensive. They also said I could not tow the Lees-ure Lite with my car if it has a Can-Am end (My car has a weird round interface but I have a adapter to flat four pin).

What are my options?
1. I read about people towing third party trailers with the Can-Am hitch. Do they have an adpater or did they replace the round interface with a flat four pin?
2. SHould I consider a different brand hitch/wiring harness?
3. Is a wiring harness and a wiring controller (what Can-Am sells) the same thing? If not, shuold I choose one over the other?


Feel free to share any of your thoughts.


Thanks.

[Haze]

The CanAm hitch I installed on my ST has a square four connector to connect to a CanAm trailer.
I made a simple and cheap adapter to connect the square four to a flat four hitch wire for a non-CanAm trailer.

[Bfromla]

I took advantage of Lee-sure Lite's NAFTA sale and ordered a trailer. What type of hitch and wiring harness/controller should I get? I have an F3-T, and I know it takes it own hitch.

From past posts it looks like the Can-Am hitch is the way to go. However the dealer says it comes with a round interface on the wiring harness that only works with the Can-Am trailer. Lees-ure Lite said they could wire up that harness but it would be super expensive. They also said I could not tow the Lees-ure Lite with my car if it has a Can-Am end (My car has a weird round interface but I have a adapter to flat four pin).

What are my options?
1. I read about people towing third party trailers with the Can-Am hitch. Do they have an adpater or did they replace the round interface with a flat four pin?
2. SHould I consider a different brand hitch/wiring harness?
3. Is a wiring harness and a wiring controller (what Can-Am sells) the same thing? If not, shuold I choose one over the other?


Feel free to share any of your thoughts.


Thanks.

First off I'd try the adapter you have (no power), then use a volt meter to test the pin -light location/ orientation make sure is correct , then make sure you have some additional fuses just in case, proceed to (live"smoke test") actually attaching trailer & test that way. Personally would have spyder off while connecting/disconnect. For a light test you should not have to crank the spyder but I don't have a F3. Grounding was a problem on some so careful there. 2: your choice there.
3: no the trailer module image.jpg least on mine is additional in line with the harness. & where the grounding issues were problematic, also 4pin square. Hope this helpful. FYI I keep the regular square in place & DIY a flat adapter to swap as needed. Works fine, however my module is out currently for a bad diode upstream in the harness still testing/investigating (slowly)

[Copperman]

What type of hitch and wiring harness/controller should I get? I have an F3-T, and I know it takes it own hitch.

What are my options?

Feel free to share any of your thoughts.


Thanks.

Your best bet is a Can Am hitch and it comes with a square four pin connector. For $23.00 you can buy a Flat 4 to a Square 4 Trailer Adapter Harness ( https://spyderpops.com/flat-4-to-squ...apter-harness/) from Spyderpops. You're all set to go.

It doesn't get any easier than this.

[fatboy]

value accessories has a nice hitch and wiring easy install

[gnorthern]

Your best bet is a Can Am hitch.

Why is that? I read multiple statements in past threads that said that, and what I pursued first, but never a good explanation it is my best bet. The Spyderpops adapter makes it an option again.

[Bfromla]

Any update?

[Copperman]

Why is that? I read multiple statements in past threads that said that, and what I pursued first, but never a good explanation it is my best bet. The Spyderpops adapter makes it an option again.

Because it's designed specifically for the Spyder by BRP. The wiring harness fits perfectly and the whole thing is a pretty easy install. The hardest part is taking off the tupperware and once you do that a few times, that becomes pretty simple, too.

Nothing is inexpensive with BRP, but, in my opinion, it's worth the few extra dollars.

[gnorthern]

Any update?

Thanks for asking.

I ordered a Can-Am hitch Friday because LaMonster and Spyderpops sells a converter from the Can-Am plug to a 4 pin flat. I will be ordering that converter and so I also finalized the order Friday for the Lees-ure Lite with a 4 pin flat.

Pierre of Spyder Accessories has a really good video on how to install their hitch and one on how to install their wiring harness. It was so straight forward that I was wiling to try it. However the threat from BRP that all other hitches voids the warranty talked me out of it. A bit of a bummer since installation cost of a Can-Am hitch is really steep and I really liked the looks of Spyder Accessories hitch.


I am still deciding

[Bob204bc]

I'm having this same decision problem. My trailer can use a 4 or 5 pin connection but I am worried about the threat of voiding the Warranty. If I was out of warranty I wouldn't care as I believe an aftermarket isolated harness is perfectly fine.

Does anyone here have knowledge of an incident of a voided Warranty due to the use of aftermarket accessories?

[fjray]

It can only be a warranty issue if what you did or installed caused the problem. Otherwise you are fine.

[billybovine]

BRP does not say that using using an aftermarket hitch will void your warranty. If you have ever seen that in any of the official materials from BRP. Please post it. I would like to see it. What they do say. "Only system on the market that maintains warrant requirements." Nowhere in that statement does it say that your warranty will be voided. In fact the word void or any form of that word is in that statement. So what does that statement mean. When you buy and have a qualified BRP dealer install any BRP accessory it is covered by the BRP warranty the same as the rest of your Spyder.

[gnorthern]

BRP does not say that using using an aftermarket hitch will void your warranty. If you have ever seen that in any of the official materials from BRP. Please post it. I would like to see it. What they do say. "Only system on the market that maintains warrant requirements." Nowhere in that statement does it say that your warranty will be voided. In fact the word void or any form of that word is in that statement. So what does that statement mean. When you buy and have a qualified BRP dealer install any BRP accessory it is covered by the BRP warranty the same as the rest of your Spyder.

Oops. You are correct. Good catch.

Too late for me, but good for others.

[Bfromla]

Educational
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magn...s_Warranty_Act

[Mazo EMS2]

I went with CanAmSpyder accessories for my hitch and 4 flat harness. If the trailer has independent turn signals, it will require a different harness...but if it's got the same bulbs for brake and turn, I'd go with the standard 4 flat from Pierre.

[UtahPete]

I just bought a Lees-Ure Lite trailer. It has a 5-wire harness on the trailer. The fifth wire is red, which is for brake lights.

The trailer has separate turn and brake lights with 3 wires, whereas the Spyder combines turn and brake signals into 2 wires (one for each side). The trailer does not come with any kind of wiring connector; just bare wires.

So, my question is; how do I wire this to my 4-square Spyder trailer plug in a way that retains the trailer's lighting functions?

[billybovine]

If you do not wish to alter your Spyder trailer harness wiring. You can build an adapter. There are 2 to 3 converters available. Commonly used to connect a towed car behind a motorhome. Here is an example of one. https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56196 I am not recommending this one it is just an example of many.

Get a converter, square Hopkins plug to match the Spyder and a plug to match the trailer. Wire them together and that should solve your problem.

[UtahPete]

If you do not wish to alter your Spyder trailer harness wiring. You can build an adapter. There are 2 to 3 converters available. Commonly used to connect a towed car behind a motorhome. Here is an example of one. https://www.curtmfg.com/part/56196 I am not recommending this one it is just an example of many.

Get a converter, square Hopkins plug to match the Spyder and a plug to match the trailer. Wire them together and that should solve your problem.

The tow vehicle (Spyder) has stop and turn combined in one wire per side. The trailer has a wire for each turn signal plus a separate wire for both brake lights. I don't know of any converter that will handle that particular combination.

Lees-Ure Lite wiring.jpg

[billybovine]

Why would I give you an example of converter if it was not made for this purpose???

Look at the input and the output in the picture.

[UtahPete]

Why would I give you an example of converter if it was not made for this purpose???

Look at the input and the output in the picture.

Now I see it. Sorry. And, thanks.

[UtahPete]

Why would I give you an example of converter if it was not made for this purpose???

Look at the input and the output in the picture.

I can see where that would work, but as I'm envisioning it, the converter would be sitting on the trailer tongue, with wires running to and from it. Seems like it would be prone to damage. Maybe I'm missing something?

[billybovine]

I can see where that would work, but as I'm envisioning it, the converter would be sitting on the trailer tongue, with wires running to and from it. Seems like it would be prone to damage. Maybe I'm missing something?

I don't know how the trailer is built. But if you don't like it exposed and you can't hide it. There is another option. You can change the wiring on the trailer and abandon the amber turn signal lights. You would need disconnect or cut the red wire going to each brake light. Disconnect or cut the turn signal light wire on each side. Then connect the turn signal wire to the brake light wire. Repeat for the other side. Then install a square Hopkins plug at the front to plug into the Spyder. Don't use the red wire.

[UtahPete]

Why would I give you an example of converter if it was not made for this purpose???

Look at the input and the output in the picture.

Billy, do you know if this will work with LED trailer lights? I looked at another brand and it said 'incandescent only'

[billybovine]

Billy, do you know if this will work with LED trailer lights? I looked at another brand and it said 'incandescent only'

Well that I don't know. Don't think it should make a difference. But I guess it's possible it will not work correctly if the load is not high enough.

[UtahPete]

Well that I don't know. Don't think it should make a difference. But I guess it's possible it will not work correctly if the load is not high enough.

The CURT is out of stock everywhere I've looked, so I got the Tekonsha version of it from Amazon. It's the one that cautions it will work only with incandescent but reviewers say they have had good luck with LEDs on the towed vehicle. So, for $30 I'll try it.

Thanks for the info. This is truly the right way to go about doing this I think.