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  1. #1
    Active Member NVERLAST1's Avatar
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    Default Rear wheel bearing funny nut stuck.

    I have tried the park f6 tool and a crow bar. That funny nut not moving. Is there anything else I can use? What am I doing wrong ughhhhhh

  2. #2
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    We found a wrecking bar fits perfectly.
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

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    Are you using a cheater bar? If anything, go to Home Depot and buy a 3' piece of metal plumbing pipe and use it to lengthen the wrench. Make sure the bearings need to be replaced. After I did mine I found the OEM ones were fine.

    IMG_0620.jpg
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    Very Active Member kep-up's Avatar
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    A 5-sided freakin' nut?? Why in the name of all sense would anyone do that except to force the owner to either purchase a special wrench or to force him/her to have an authorized shop do the work?

  5. #5
    Active Member cbredneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kep-up View Post
    A 5-sided freakin' nut?? Why in the name of all sense would anyone do that except to force the owner to either purchase a special wrench or to force him/her to have an authorized shop do the work?
    look again
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    There is no 5 sided nut.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by NVERLAST1 View Post
    I have tried the park f6 tool and a crow bar. That funny nut not moving. Is there anything else I can use? What am I doing wrong ughhhhhh
    Is it a reverse thread maybe?
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Is it a reverse thread maybe?
    It's a normal right hand thread. As Cptjam suggested, a wrecking bar or something similar that can be wedged between two opposing slots will work.
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  9. #9
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    Like this?

    Wrecking bar.jpg
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  10. #10
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Like this?

    Wrecking bar.jpg
    Yes. Put a large wrench on it and turn.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    Yes. Put a large wrench on it and turn.
    Can you explain how to 'put a large wrench' on the wrecking bar? I'm having trouble visualizing this technique. Thanks.
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    More like a big A__ crescent wrench slimmed down to grip the flat width of the pry bar that is stuck into the slot of the regular threaded nut.... if you do this more than a few times, grind a custom fit piece of flat stock about 1/4 inch thick to fit...DSCN2810.jpg
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    More like a big A__ crescent wrench slimmed down to grip the flat width of the pry bar that is stuck into the slot of the regular threaded nut.... if you do this more than a few times, grind a custom fit piece of flat stock about 1/4 inch thick to fit...DSCN2810.jpg
    And, how does this grip the nut?
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    Are you using a cheater bar? If anything, go to Home Depot and buy a 3' piece of metal plumbing pipe and use it to lengthen the wrench. Make sure the bearings need to be replaced. After I did mine I found the OEM ones were fine.

    IMG_0620.jpg
    Okay, so the picture above shows the Park Tool FR-6 in place. Park Tool FR-6_001.jpg

    Now, I'm understanding the issue better.

    Why not use a breaker bar with the right sized socket on it? Or, as mentioned, slip some steel pipe over the socket wrench handle to provide additional leverage.

    I still don't understand how you would use a wrecking bar to turn this nut...
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  15. #15
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Okay, so the picture above shows the Park Tool FR-6 in place. Park Tool FR-6_001.jpg

    Now, I'm understanding the issue better.

    Why not use a breaker bar with the right sized socket on it? Or, as mentioned, slip some steel pipe over the socket wrench handle to provide additional leverage.

    I still don't understand how you would use a wrecking bar to turn this nut...
    The straight end of the bar goes in two opposite slots in the nut. Get something to use to apply torque to the bar. I don't know how else to explain it.
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  17. #17
    Very Active Member kep-up's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    There is no 5 sided nut.
    Don't teach cursive in school now, and didn't teach countin' waaay back when I was larnin'.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default Well...

    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    And, how does this grip the nut?
    ....first the pry bar trick is for those of us too cheap ( I mean frugal) to get the right tool....then when the Park tool is out of the way or not available,,

    just hold the flats of the pry bar in the slots of the retaining nut like GranPot says... helps if you hold your mouth right.. and use that big Crescent wrench

    to twist whilst you hold down to keep the pry par ends engaged in the slots... Well on second thought probably you should just go buy the right tool and

    the proper socket along with a 24" breaker bar and get after it but like others said, don't change it if you dont have to...

    We have put over 40 K each (76, 44, 46, 40) on four different bikes, and always feel and spin the bearings when we change tires, and havent changed a bearing yet...I do have a set on the shelf waiting
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    ....first the pry bar trick is for those of us too cheap ( I mean frugal) to get the right tool....then when the Park tool is out of the way or not available,,

    just hold the flats of the pry bar in the slots of the retaining nut like GranPot says... helps if you hold your mouth right.. and use that big Crescent wrench

    to twist whilst you hold down to keep the pry par ends engaged in the slots... Well on second thought probably you should just go buy the right tool and

    the proper socket along with a 24" breaker bar and get after it but like others said, don't change it if you dont have to...

    We have put over 40 K each (76, 44, 46, 40) on four different bikes, and always feel and spin the bearings when we change tires, and havent changed a bearing yet...I do have a set on the shelf waiting
    NOW I get it. You use the pry bar INSTEAD OF the freewheel tool. That makes sense. As far as the OP goes, he DOES have the freewheel removal tool and just needs more leverage on its nut in order to break free the freewheel bearing retainer nut.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    ....first the pry bar trick is for those of us too cheap ( I mean frugal) to get the right tool....then when the Park tool is out of the way or not available,,

    just hold the flats of the pry bar in the slots of the retaining nut like GranPot says... helps if you hold your mouth right.. and use that big Crescent wrench

    to twist whilst you hold down to keep the pry par ends engaged in the slots... Well on second thought probably you should just go buy the right tool and

    the proper socket along with a 24" breaker bar and get after it but like others said, don't change it if you dont have to...

    We have put over 40 K each (76, 44, 46, 40) on four different bikes, and always feel and spin the bearings when we change tires, and havent changed a bearing yet...I do have a set on the shelf waiting
    Would you care to share the model number of those bearings.

    Thanks
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  21. #21
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Use the short arm of the wrecking bar. See post 12. Not the end he has a wrench on: the other end! Fits perfectly. Regular thread. I stand the wheel up, nut side on right, insert bar, push down.
    Joe Meyer



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