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  1. #1
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    Default Stebel horn trips cruise control off

    So my loving wife got me a Stebel horn for Christmas. instillation on my 2017 RTL was straight forward. Used the included relay. Works like a champ. We went for a spin today and had my first opportunity to try the horn. If I press the horn button for more than a quick beep with the cruise control set it trips the cruise control off, as in no longer set. The cruise is still on and I can re-engage right away. This one has me stumped with the exception of possibly a weak battery, which I would be suprised, the bike is only 8 months old and sets on the trickel charger in the garage when not being ridden. Any ideas?

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    Assuming the relay was wired in correctly (i.e. with the load coming off its own fused circuit and not an existing one), that has me stumped also.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
    Northern Utah in summer; Yuma, AZ in winter.

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    Yeah, good question. The load is indeed coming off a fused lead directly to the battery.

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    Yeah, good question. The load is indeed coming off a fused lead directly to the battery.
    Where does the ground side the horn connect to the ground wiring? If one of them is connected to the ground side of the cluster, or ECM, or whatever, maybe it raises the voltage on the ground side of the cruise control processor so that it thinks it's being turned off. That's the only thing I can think might be happening. For a test connect the ground side of the horn directly to the battery and see if that makes a difference. Where do you have the coil of the relay connected, in place of the OEM horn or parallel to it? Keep in mind the horn button is in the ground side of the OEM horn circuit.

    I have my Wolo trumpets wired directly to battery negative and have noticed my radio mutes for a moment when I blast the horns.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

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    Ground is wired direct to battery. Right now the only thing I can think to do is switch the oem horn leads wired to the relay and see if that makes a difference. I wouldn't think so, the relay doesn't care if the dc current flows left to right or right to left to close the relay, but I only got an into to electrical engineering when I was getting my aero eng degree, so I may well be wrong on that.

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    Didn't have the radio on, run my tunes from the cell phone to the sena's. I'll try that tomorrow. Wondering if a long press on the horn is drawing too much current??? If the battery voltage drops too low maybe that's whats causing it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    Didn't have the radio on, run my tunes from the cell phone to the sena's. I'll try that tomorrow. Wondering if a long press on the horn is drawing too much current??? If the battery voltage drops too low maybe that's whats causing it?
    Temporarily wire the horn directly to the battery and see if that resolves the problem.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
    Northern Utah in summer; Yuma, AZ in winter.

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    Right now the only thing I can think to do is switch the oem horn leads wired to the relay and see if that makes a difference. I wouldn't think so, the relay doesn't care if the dc current flows left to right or right to left to close the relay,
    That may do it. The horn switch completes the ground circuit from the horn to ground. The horn button is part of the processor board in the Multi-switch on the left and so has a common ground with the processor board. The processor board in the right Multi-switch is connected only to the processor in the left handlebar. So if when you press the horn button you happen to be backfeeding into either or both the left processor board and right processor board via their ground path, that may be what is tripping the cruise control.

    When I installed my Wolo trumpets I brought the power lead from the battery to the + side of the relay coil and the relay contact. The other side of the contact went to the horn compressor and the ground from the compressor back to battery ground. The - side of the relay coil is spliced into the horn lead between the horn and the horn button. In effect then the relay coil has + 12 v on both ends until the button is pushed. I left the OEM horn in place. It too has + 12 v on both connections until the button is pushed.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    the bike is only 8 months old and sets on the trickel charger in the garage when not being ridden. Any ideas?
    What kind of charger exactly ?
    Hope it is not actually a cheap trickle charger.

    The battery might have been "abused" at the dealership.

    Check the connections at the battery terminals AND the main ground connection.

    Having a voltmeter would be really helpful.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    Didn't have the radio on, run my tunes from the cell phone to the sena's. I'll try that tomorrow. Wondering if a long press on the horn is drawing too much current??? If the battery voltage drops too low maybe that's whats causing it?
    Not likely. The most likely cause for your symptoms is that your horn compressor is wired into an existing circuit that also powers some aspect of the cruise control system.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Temporarily wire the horn directly to the battery and see if that resolves the problem.
    What ??
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Not likely.
    Very likely actually.
    OR the horn is generating too much electrical noise which is feeding back into the CAN bus.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    Ground is wired direct to battery. Right now the only thing I can think to do is switch the oem horn leads wired to the relay and see if that makes a difference. I wouldn't think so, the relay doesn't care if the dc current flows left to right or right to left to close the relay, but I only got an into to electrical engineering when I was getting my aero eng degree, so I may well be wrong on that.
    Actually with a DC relay, current direction does make a difference. But, that's not your problem because obviously the relay is working.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
    Northern Utah in summer; Yuma, AZ in winter.

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    The purpose of a relay is to close a switch with a heavy current going through it WITHOUT that heavy current also going through the 'button' switch that actuates it. Think of the horn button as a remote control for the horn compressor. The actuator button can be small and light duty because it only has to carry the minimal current to 'fire' the relay. The relay has a plunger that causes a heavier duty switch to close, providing the larger current needed to drive the compressor. Call this the 'load' switch; it requires larger wires and should ideally have its own fused circuit (load circuit) direct to battery.

    The smaller wires that run to the horn 'button' can be tapped into an existing circuit, such as lighting or accessory, because it draws just a minimal amount of current.



    In the above diagram, the red colored switch would be your horn actuator button. The green one would be the 'load' circuit to run the compressor. 'NC' means not connected (there is no wire going to it). When the red switch is closed, the relay's coil closes the green switch by moving the arm from 'NC' position to the 'ON' position.

    I hope this helps.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    I was thinking about this as I was cleaning out the garage.................
    And I think that dis-engaging the cruise when you blow the horn is a GOOD safety feature to have.
    I would leave it alone.

    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I was thinking about this as I was cleaning out the garage.................
    And I think that dis-engaging the cruise when you blow the horn is a GOOD safety feature to have.
    I would leave it alone.

    Good point. Maybe they all work like that ... something to look into.

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Good point. Maybe they all work like that ... something to look into.
    Exactly what I was thinking as well. Was really debating if I wanted to dig into it or not for that reason. I will say that the first time it happened at 70 mph and the rapid deceleration, including the voice activated auto-pilot yelling my my headset really took me by surprise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by heynavt1 View Post
    including the voice activated auto-pilot yelling my my headset ......
    What ??
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

  19. #19
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    I used the supplied relay (following the instructions carefully) and wired my Wolo + & - directly to the battery with an in-line 20 amp fuse on the + side, and have had no problems whatsoever. Might want to give that a try.
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldguyinCT View Post
    I used the supplied relay (following the instructions carefully) and wired my Wolo + & - directly to the battery with an in-line 20 amp fuse on the + side, and have had no problems whatsoever. Might want to give that a try.
    Have you tried sounding the horn at freeway speeds while cruise control is engaged?

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    Interesting problem you have there.

    You can rule out the battery or it's connections as a possible cause. The simple reason is there no power being supplied by the battery to the horn circuit when the engine is running. All power is supplied from the charging circuit. So it does not matter how good the battery is. If it starts the Spyder it's good enough.

    If it is a bad relay causing too much electrical noise and interfering with the Canbus. That should show up in the fault code history when pluggeg into BUDS. It should also show up on your screen at the time but clear so fast that you may never see it.

    If it is a bad connection to the chassis ground or harness ground junction. That could be brutal to find.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Interesting problem you have there.

    You can rule out the battery or it's connections as a possible cause. The simple reason is there no power being supplied by the battery to the horn circuit when the engine is running. All power is supplied from the charging circuit. So it does not matter how good the battery is. If it starts the Spyder it's good enough.

    If it is a bad relay causing too much electrical noise and interfering with the Canbus. That should show up in the fault code history when pluggeg into BUDS. It should also show up on your screen at the time but clear so fast that you may never see it.

    If it is a bad connection to the chassis ground or harness ground junction. That could be brutal to find.
    Maybe it's designed to disengage the cruise control when the horn button is pressed?

    2014 RTL Platinum & 2014 RTL Cognac
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The simple reason is there no power being supplied by the battery to the horn circuit when the engine is running. All power is supplied from the charging circuit.
    Maybe, maybe not.

    When there is a demand for a sudden high surge of current, the charging circuit might not be able to respond quick enough and the battery might indeed supply part of the demand.

    Not that I necessarily think the battery IS the problem but the connections might be .........and the battery is a huge long shot.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Maybe it's designed to disengage the cruise control when the horn button is pressed?
    I tried my '17 RT today.
    At about 50 MPH, honking the stock horn did NOT cancel the cruise.
    My ride: '17 Spyder RT

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    Very Active Member oldguyinCT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Have you tried sounding the horn at freeway speeds while cruise control is engaged?
    Yes, at 70-75 mph I can honk the Wolo as long as I want, doesn't shut off the cruise. I wired direct to the battery so I would not be drawing current from any circuits, thus maybe causing problems.
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