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  1. #1
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    Default Checking final drive

    Wandering if there is an easier way to check this hard to get to plug? Iím thinking I may need a socket with an 8mm Allen wrench built in, canít remember what thatís called, and a wobble extension to help line up and get through the wheel. cueman

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    From the operator's guide picture on pg. 102 it looks like a long T-handle Allen wrench will do it. The risky thing IMO is that one is checking through the space between two of the spokes that hold the brake disc to the hub. To me that means any time the plug is removed and replaced the whole area should get a good spraying with brake cleaner, particularly after draining and refilling the final drive. Gear oil and brake pads are mortal enemies.
    Last edited by JayBros; 01-25-2019 at 12:37 PM. Reason: for clarity
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    Active Member Leadfoot's Avatar
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    The one complaint I have with the Ryker so far is the brake pedal effort. Takes a gorilla stomp on it to get maximum braking. Feels like all the pads were sprayed with the stuff.

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    The T-8mm allen wrench may do the job but is so tight to the rim is why I was thinking of a wobble extension. I’m also concerned with the final drive fluid, no matter how careful I am, will make a terrible mess just where I wouldn’t want it. cueman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    The one complaint I have with the Ryker so far is the brake pedal effort. Takes a gorilla stomp on it to get maximum braking. Feels like all the pads were sprayed with the stuff.

    Just an idea, try adj. your brake pedal to a place where you may have more leverage. cueman

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    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    The one complaint I have with the Ryker so far is the brake pedal effort. Takes a gorilla stomp on it to get maximum braking. Feels like all the pads were sprayed with the stuff.
    If its New you are supposed to "Go Very Easy" on the brakes for a couple hundred miles to let then break in.
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    Active Member QuasiMotard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    If its New you are supposed to "Go Very Easy" on the brakes for a couple hundred miles to let then break in.
    @Leadfoot : how many miles do you have on the clock?

    I'll second that. My Ryker is still very fresh and hasn't been broken-in yet (not even close), so it takes significant pedal effort to stop. The pads feel like wooden blocks, but that is normal until the rotors and pads "bed-in". One way to tell at a glance if the pads and rotors are bedded-in is to look at the swept area of the rotors (where the pads rub the disc) and see if you still have any cross-hatching on the rotor. If you still see that, then you're still bedding-in... it takes a while, depending on your riding conditions. Also, you shouldn't see any shiny glazing (e.g. mirror finish) or bluing of the rotor, which indicates overheating and/or glazed pads/rotors. Glazing can be reversed somewhat by scuffing the rotors with Scotchbrite pads, but the pads may need to be replaced in extreme cases.

    The Can-Am operator's manual doesn't give much background on the break-in of the pads, but here is a good reference: https://galferusa.com/technical/maintenance-tips

    I've used a similar quick bed-in process on my machines for years and it has never failed me.

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    Active Member QuasiMotard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cueman View Post
    Wandering if there is an easier way to check this hard to get to plug? I’m thinking I may need a socket with an 8mm Allen wrench built in, can’t remember what that’s called, and a wobble extension to help line up and get through the wheel. cueman
    My Ryker is headed to the dealer tomorrow morning for a full re-inspection. I plan to loiter around and see if I can get into the service area to look over their shoulder (for several reasons). I will be insisting that they drain and refill the gearbox, and I want an inspection of the rear diff at the same time... even if I have to pay the shop labor out of my own pocket. If I can figure out how to shortcut the process (e.g. not pull the rear wheel) from one of their tech's, I'll let you know. The operator's manual isn't very clear on the procedure, and it will likely result in gear oil on the rotor or brake pads, as JayBros mentioned.

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    Active Member SpyderConvert's Avatar
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    I don't have a Ryker, but if it's a difficult reach/access to the inspection plug, would a ball-end Allen wrench make the process easier??
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    I will research that. Thanks, cueman

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    That may work. Info. said it can give 24 degree angle. That would be plenty. cueman

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderConvert View Post
    I don't have a Ryker, but if it's a difficult reach/access to the inspection plug, would a ball-end Allen wrench make the process easier??
    Thank you for the info. I bought the ball end metric allen wrench set yesterday and think it will work. It's so cold here that I may not get to it for a week or two. cueman

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    8mm ball end allen socket (full set from Advanced Auto for $29) Spin the wheel to allow access. It is snug but not tight against the wheel. Pull the plug and add the recommended final drive lube until it just starts to run back out of the hole. Re-install the plug. I used a small syringe to put oil in 10 ml at a time. Worked well and made no mess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    The one complaint I have with the Ryker so far is the brake pedal effort. Takes a gorilla stomp on it to get maximum braking. Feels like all the pads were sprayed with the stuff.
    had the same issue/complaint until I moved it to a more upright position.

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    Active Member Leadfoot's Avatar
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    Thought of one more thing I'd like to see on Rykers - An overdrive gear in the gearbox to lower engine RPM and improve fuel economy when cruising interstate. The 900 could easily pull taller gearing. I'd still want the current low range gear for around town though.

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    Active Member Leadfoot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triumphcycleman View Post
    had the same issue/complaint until I moved it to a more upright position.
    Yep, I noticed the same thing. I think it also improved a bit after the pads seated properly.

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    Just got word from my dealership that they were going to replace the final drive unit on my ryker. This is the second time in a month that it has been in the service department!!! Anyone else having multiple problems?
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    What did they say the exact problem was? Was it making noise different than normal? cueman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Annblankinship View Post
    Just got word from my dealership that they were going to replace the final drive unit on my ryker. This is the second time in a month that it has been in the service department!!! Anyone else having multiple problems?
    Glad they are taking care of the issue. Hope turn-a-round is quick and that this is the last of the problems.
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  20. #20
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    Be a week before they get parts. Then another few days to fix. Just hating that having so much problems out of a new cycle. Love it when it's running right!

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    No out of ordinary noise. Just all of sudden had grease on rim after a 80 mile ride

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    Quote Originally Posted by Triumphcycleman View Post
    had the same issue/complaint until I moved it to a more upright position.
    On my first demo ride, I thought I'd never get it hauled down from 60mph! Complained to the salesman and he moved the pedal to a 'more upright position' and it made a big difference. Keeping that in mind as I go to pick my rally up (not soon enough!)
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  23. #23
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    Hi cueman ref r/ d drain plug yes it's another bad design all BMW shaft drive are easy to do ( I've had dozens) but Can Am carnt do it so let's make it hard and messy Regards Nico 75

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    They should make the people who design them actually work on them and we wouldn’t have these issues. cueman

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