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Tips on spark plug and wires being replaced
I have a 2011 RTS twin. Can I get to the plugs without removing the air box and small luggage compartment at front edge of seat on top of air box?
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The rear plug yes, very easy. The front plug is pretty hidden. You will need to at least loosen the air box, you will not have to remove the glovebox. Give yourself plenty of time and if you get frustrated, walk away for a while. I didn't remove the side frame or the frunk.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQTNMYSTdIc I would change the wires while doing this job. Get them from Bajaron.
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Originally Posted by dg110270
I have a 2011 RTS twin. Can I get to the plugs without removing the air box and small luggage compartment at front edge of seat on top of air box?
Good advise in previous posts. But the straight up answer to your question is yes, both plugs can be changed without removing the air box. But it is no panacea to go that way. And you'll be doing the front spark plug by braille if you do. Taking the air box off is a pain, but not all that bad. More time consuming than difficult. Removing it gives you clear access to the front spark plug making the remaining install process much easier to do, and to verify that it has been done correctly.
As mentioned above, you really should check the air filter anyway. With the pre-2013 Spyders it was not uncommon to get oil in the air box from the poorly designed crankcase ventilation system. Sometimes a great deal of oil. Checking the air filter will confirm if you have this common issue as well. Correcting the oil in the air box problem is inexpensive and easy to do.
Also, as mentioned above, you should change out the spark plug wires as well. The OEM wires are of very poor quality and construction. It is usually the wires going bad that gets people thinking about changing the spark plugs in the first place. But if you do not change out the wires, it is likely that your Spyder will run worse after installing the new spark plugs than it did before you started. And it is definitely tear worthy to discover this after you have everything back together. On that note I highly recommend starting your Spyder to check for good throttle response and smooth idle before putting the air box back on. Just be sure there is no possibility of sucking anything into the throttle bodies when you do.
It does not hurt to check and probably replace your vacuum lines during this time too. They are easily accessible with the air box removed, cheap to replace, and can solve nagging bad idle and backfire issues.
Take your time, do it right, and realize that you won't have to do it again for 50k miles or so.
Last edited by BajaRon; 01-24-2019 at 04:04 PM.
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For the time it takes to remove the air box it's well worth it as apposed to fumbling blind trying to seat the front spark plug.
Also agree about changing the plug wires. I've put Ron's wires on a few Spyders and every one of them has been huge improvement as far as response is concerned!
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Here are pics of my 998 with air filter removed to access the front plug. The red is the new plug cap that is part of BajaRons plug wires and is the front plug.
I found using plug pliers really helped get the old cap off and the OEM wires are easily breakable and that's why I got new plug wires.
fullsizeoutput_13a8.jpg. IMG_0893.JPG
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Great tips Ron. Thank you. I noticed the K&N air filter you sent me looks like it’s pre-lubed already with the red oil. Am I Correct it’s ready to drop in? Thanks to all for the help.
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Originally Posted by dg110270
Great tips Ron. Thank you. I noticed the K&N air filter you sent me looks like it’s pre-lubed already with the red oil. Am I Correct it’s ready to drop in? Thanks to all for the help.
Yes, the K&N air filter is plug and play. Ready to go.
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Thanks everyone. Got the oil changed and the plugs and wires changed and the air filter. Glad it's done. The air box on the 2011 RT is a nightmare. What a terrible design. Now I need a test ride to see if the rough missing idle is fixed.
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Took a 100 mile ride today. The Bahron plugs and wires fixed my rough idle problem. Thanks Ron for the parts and tips.
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Originally Posted by dg110270
Took a 100 mile ride today. The Bahron plugs and wires fixed my rough idle problem. Thanks Ron for the parts and tips.
This makes it a lot easier.
http://spyderstore.com/index.php?rou...&product_id=50
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