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Active Member
 Am I meeting something here about the oil
DE24658B-6349-4A49-A98D-95F8598B4FD3.jpg shouldn’t 1 be min and 2 be max and so I Check my oil and this is what it looks like 6E604017-1596-475C-AC47-50B461CCB71A.jpg looks low if you ask me
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Very Active Member
 Originally Posted by Winnex3
They do look reversed and The only valid oil check is to run the 9 miles or more and then idle 30 seconds and check. Th cold level could very well look like that?
2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.
Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
Thank you that’s a good post I will wait to the weather gets warmer and then take It for a spin then Check and see where it is but it still seems a little low where it’s at now
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Winnex3
Apparently you are looking at the instructions for the Australian version. Yes the numbers on the owners manual look bass ackwards
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Check it when per the post thread. Then recheck the level may look low now and will change after you get it warmed up..
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Originally Posted by Winnex3
Yes, I saw that in the manual and thought it was mistake. Was your bike warmed up or cold checked? cueman
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
This is not a good thing to post! This is NOT a ACE 1330 engine. An ACE 1330 engine has a very complex oil sump system with many sump pumps. The ACE 900 engine is not even close by comparison. Winnex3 posted the correct date.
1.) I have two questions, what is going on in Mexico, do they have a Quality Control department?
2.) Why did the Dealer deliver your bike without checking the engine sump level? If your engine or gearbox ran low on oil it could seize up and lead to a fatal accident. I guess your life means little, only the small amount of cash that the dealer makes on these deals. It has been reported that dealers make as little as $400.00 profit per bike. What is the incentive to do a setup and actually inspect the mandatory lubricant inspections at the dealership, it appear to be NONE.
I make my live as an airworthiness safety inspector. If my job did not exist then many more people would be harmed each year in aviation accidents. I'm seeing a pattern developing here with this super low cost Ryker and the fact that it's being built in a 3rd world country (Mexico). It appears the Quality Control is not up to standards. I hope BRP is reading this posting!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by cueman
Yes, I saw that in the manual and thought it was mistake. Was your bike warmed up or cold checked? cueman
Cold I know it should look a little low just didn’t think it should look that low
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This engine is derived from the snowmobile engine. You must be able to determine correct engine oil level when the engine is cold on a snowmobile. It is not a Spyder ACE 1330 engine which must be check hot and after 10 minutes of idle to allow the sump pumps to evacuate the sump areas.
Do not confuse this man. Follow the instruction that came with the engine. It can be check when the engine is cold. It is clearly low on oil!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Winnex3
Thank you that’s a good post I will wait to the weather gets warmer and then take It for a spin then Check and see where it is but it still seems a little low where it’s at now
That procedure is for the 1330 - F3's & RT's. Sarge707 has posted the correct method for the Ryker.
Min and Max are defiantly backwards in the manual!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Leland
Do not confuse this man. Follow the instruction that came with the engine. It can be check when the engine is cold. It is clearly low on oil!
Not according to the manual! Check after running the engine!
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Originally Posted by Leland
This is not a good thing to post! This is NOT a ACE 1330 engine. An ACE 1330 engine has a very complex oil sump system with many sump pumps. The ACE 900 engine is not even close by comparison. Winnex3 posted the correct date.
1.) I have two questions, what is going on in Mexico, do they have a Quality Control department?
2.) Why did the Dealer deliver your bike without checking the engine sump level? If your engine or gearbox ran low on oil it could seize up and lead to a fatal accident. I guess your life means little, only the small amount of cash that the dealer makes on these deals. It has been reported that dealers make as little as $400.00 profit per bike. What is the incentive to do a setup and actually inspect the mandatory lubricant inspections at the dealership, it appear to be NONE.
I make my live as an airworthiness safety inspector. If my job did not exist then many more people would be harmed each year in aviation accidents. I'm seeing a pattern developing here with this super low cost Ryker and the fact that it's being built in a 3rd world country (Mexico). It appears the Quality Control is not up to standards. I hope BRP is reading this posting!
Like I was suppose to know it was for a RYKer.. Thanks for your POST!
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@Leland, the incentive to do a correct setup is that the dealer is charging US as customers. A few weeks ago I asked for a quote from my local dealer and got a $400 freight add on (for a bike I was sitting on while we were talking). This was to "cover shipment from the factory to the dealer". Also quoted a $411 charge for "prep" this was (quoted directly from the sales manager) "unit assembly, fluid checking and things like that". I did not buy that day. People like us, who made our living inspecting and repairing vehicles (whatever the type) understand the gravity of this situation and also understand, even though the mistake is on BRP, responsibility falls on the selling dealer and the tech who flagged the time to "prep" the vehicle.
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Originally Posted by Winnex3
Thank you that’s a good post I will wait to the weather gets warmer and then take It for a spin then Check and see where it is but it still seems a little low where it’s at now
Sorry did not know that your question was for a Ryker..Disregard my post
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Active Member
@ Leland - For your information, the correct procedure for checking the oil in a snowmobile with the Ace 600 or 900 engine is also with the engine warmed up and than let it idle for 30 seconds!
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Great news, thank you.
I don't own a Ski-doo with this engine. This makes sense, warm and a bit of a rest.
The basic oil level can be verified while cold to make sure that some oil is in the sump prior to light-off, but finial checking would be require after heat-up to allow for oil expansion.
The point I'm trying to make is the engine is far less sophisticated with regards to oil sumps compared to the ACE 1330. I'm trying to help this man get a feel for how to check his oil. Unfortunately someone by mistake posted the ACE 1130 procedure.
It will be interesting to see what the level comes up too after the correct procedure has been followed.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Leland
This engine is derived from the snowmobile engine. You must be able to determine correct engine oil level when the engine is cold on a snowmobile. It is not a Spyder ACE 1330 engine which must be check hot and after 10 minutes of idle to allow the sump pumps to evacuate the sump areas.
Do not confuse this man. Follow the instruction that came with the engine. It can be check when the engine is cold. It is clearly low on oil!
Thank you that is what I thought it just looks a little to low I have Checked three times and still the same results
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Active Member
I always like it (sarcasm) when they make the dip stick about the same color as the oil.
Coke
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Leland
Great news, thank you.
I don't own a Ski-doo with this engine. This makes sense, warm and a bit of a rest.
The basic oil level can be verified while cold to make sure that some oil is in the sump prior to light-off, but finial checking would be require after heat-up to allow for oil expansion.
The point I'm trying to make is the engine is far less sophisticated with regards to oil sumps compared to the ACE 1330. I'm trying to help this man get a feel for how to check his oil. Unfortunately someone by mistake posted the ACE 1130 procedure.
It will be interesting to see what the level comes up too after the correct procedure has been followed.
Yes, and the point I'm trying to make is you also made a mistake saying "It can be check when the engine is cold. It is clearly low on oil!"
We won't know if he's low on oil until the correct procedure has been followed!
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Originally Posted by Winnex3
Cold I know it should look a little low just didn’t think it should look that low
Hey Winnex3, I know where my oil was on the dip stick when hot as per manual. Tomorrow afternoon I will check it cold and compare it to yours. My body aches too much to do it right now, but I will do it. Hold off running it for now just to be safe. cueman
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Winnex3
That were mine was it's low
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Winnex3
I'm sure you're aware of this fact, but I thought it might be helpful just in case....
It would be "bad practice" to just warm-up the engine to check the oil. Combustion gases that bypass the piston rings will contaminate your fresh oil with water vapor that will condense within your new engine leading to corrosion. Wait until you plan to go on a ride of many miles to make sure the oil get to full operating temperature and boils off any contamination from the startup and cold running process. There is no way to avoid this condensation of water vapor within the engine. Short rides can greatly shorten engine life. BMW bikes have been known to have this problem since adventure bike are operated by some really tough humans in super cold weather.
As your aware, for every gallon of fuel burned nearly a gallon of water is produce., thus you see the steam emitted from exhaust pipes on cold day.The German dirigibles of the 1930 era condensed the exhausted gasses from the diesel propulsion engines and stored the captured water onboard to maintain correct ballast.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Leland
Winnex3
I'm sure you're aware of this fact, but I thought it might be helpful just in case....
It would be "bad practice" to just warm-up the engine to check the oil. Combustion gases that bypass the piston rings will contaminate your fresh oil with water vapor that will condense within your new engine leading to corrosion. Wait until you plan to go on a ride of many miles to make sure the oil get to full operating temperature and boils off any contamination from the startup and cold running process. There is no way to avoid this condensation of water vapor within the engine. Short rides can greatly shorten engine life. BMW bikes have been known to have this problem since adventure bike are operated by some really tough humans in super cold weather.
As your aware, for every gallon of fuel burned nearly a gallon of water is produce., thus you see the steam emitted from exhaust pipes on cold day.The German dirigibles of the 1930 era condensed the exhausted gasses from the diesel propulsion engines and stored the captured water onboard to maintain correct ballast.
Thank I know what your talking about but you just explained it much better than I could do a lot of people don’t know this my buddy says I’m crazy cause he keeps his bike in my garage and comes over now and then to start it I tell him you are doing more damage than good
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Originally Posted by Leland
The German dirigibles of the 1930 era condensed the exhausted gasses from the diesel propulsion engines and stored the captured water onboard to maintain correct ballast.
OK, this thread has just turned into a TIL (Today I Learned). 
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