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  1. #1
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    Default Handlebar rotation

    The handlebar has a bit of a u-shaped profile that is biased away from the driver (i.e. the centerline of the bar where it passes through the cam clamp is closer to the driver verses the centerline of the grips. Anyone have experience loosing all the attached items and rotating the handle so it moves the grip centerline closer to the driver?

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default So I see....

    you have a Ryker Ralley, I don't know but have you checked the owners manual .. ?? We all know the bars slide for and aft but not much on the pivoting....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

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    Maybe I missed it, but didn't see anything about the option of rotating the handlebars. Seems like it might be doable???

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    If its not in your manual then best ask your dealer. These are new machines all around & we still learning, please share when you do find the way.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    The handlebar has a bit of a u-shaped profile that is biased away from the driver (i.e. the centerline of the bar where it passes through the cam clamp is closer to the driver verses the centerline of the grips. Anyone have experience loosing all the attached items and rotating the handle so it moves the grip centerline closer to the driver?
    A photo would have helped, but it sounds as if the handlebars were installed incorrectly if that is possible.

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    At the show I went to dealer said you can rotate them a small amount. It seems that the switches are mounted in a pinned position so if you rotate, switches will also rotate as well. cueman

  7. #7
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    Thanks cueman. Was hoping they were just clamped on. Appreciate the information!

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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    The handlebar has a bit of a u-shaped profile that is biased away from the driver (i.e. the centerline of the bar where it passes through the cam clamp is closer to the driver verses the centerline of the grips. Anyone have experience loosing all the attached items and rotating the handle so it moves the grip centerline closer to the driver?
    Yes you can rotate the bars, BUT you would have to re drill the hole to match the wiring and controls. Anything is do able if you are capable.

  9. #9
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    If I had one, I would flip the bars over. I’ll bet it just takes a drill to locate the positioning pins.
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

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    I didn't drill the bars on my Triumph when I wanted to rotate the switch housings. I just used my Dremel tool and took off the positioning pins. The housings still tightened enough to keep them from rotating on the bars. Put three years and 70,000 miles on the bike with no issues.

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    Good to know!

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    Got them flipped/rotated. If anyone else wants to get the stock bars higher and a bit closer to you, let me know and I can tell you what I encountered in the process.

    20181228_145513.jpg

    Love the new position!!!! Worth the effort for my riding style!

  13. #13
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    Got them flipped/rotated. If anyone else wants to get the stock bars higher and a bit closer to you, let me know and I can tell you what I encountered in the process.

    20181228_145513.jpg

    Love the new position!!!! Worth the effort for my riding style!
    Are you saying the end of the handlebars was forward vs what you show in the photo? If so, it seems the bike was assembled incorrectly.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    Got them flipped/rotated. If anyone else wants to get the stock bars higher and a bit closer to you, let me know and I can tell you what I encountered in the process.

    20181228_145513.jpg

    Love the new position!!!! Worth the effort for my riding style!
    They look much better. What all was involved in the flip??

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    Got them flipped/rotated. If anyone else wants to get the stock bars higher and a bit closer to you, let me know and I can tell you what I encountered in the process.

    20181228_145513.jpg

    Love the new position!!!! Worth the effort for my riding style!

    Glad your happy with results, without too much detail, was it a DIY or dealer involved task?, & guess on time to complete please.

    2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
    SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
    SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
    *******:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ &brake light strips,
    wide vue mirrors
    Lid lox
    sawblade mowhalk fender accents
    minispyder dash toy
    Pakitrack
    FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
    BRP trailer hitch & 622 trailer (with its own list: Spyderpops Lighted Rear Bumpskid, LineX protection on sides, led trim lighting amber front& red rear, stand& tongue handle)THX Cruzr Joe!
    (pics in album)

  16. #16
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    It was a DIY project. And responding to an earlier post, they were not originally installed incorrectly... Just not to my liking. By rotating them approximately 180 degrees after flipping them, they sit taller and a bit closer to me. It took me a couple hours but others might be able to do it faster. I was being very careful.

    The details of what I did:

    - Removed the mirrors (one Torx screw per side)
    - Removed the hand guards (four socket head cap screws per side)
    - Loosened and seperated the throttle casing halves and the throttle grip itself (three Torx screws)
    - Loosened and seperated the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves (two Torx screws)
    - Removed cables from cable holders (carefully)
    - Removed bar clamps and screws (four socket head cap screws)
    - Flipped handlebar end-for-end and ensured I slid the throttle housing over handlebar end before placing into the adjustment cradle.
    - Replaced the bar clamps and screws. Test fit preferred angle then fully tighten the four socket head screws.
    - Inserted a thin screwdriver between grip and handlebar; prying outward to form a gap... then sprayed isopropyl alcohol in the void.
    - Twisted and remove grip
    - Sprayed isopropyl alcohol inside of grip and slide it on the other end of the bar to the same distance as before
    - Marked, center punched, and drilled holes for the pins for both end casings.
    - Reassembled the handguards . Note: Since my preferred riding position was about a hundred 180 degrees from where it was, I could utilize the same pin holes for the hand guards after it was flipped end-for-end.
    - Reassembled the throttle casing, ensuring the throttle grip was properly seated in the casing halves.
    - Reassembled the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves
    - Placed the cables inside the cable holders
    - Installed the mirrors

  17. #17
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    Handlebars might be a great aftermarket possibility for the Ryker!

  18. #18
    Active Member Michaelscs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner3773 View Post
    Handlebars might be a great aftermarket possibility for the Ryker!
    Can-am has 2 addition handlebar options for the Ryker. The Cross-Style & Sport. https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/shop/...andlebars.html Both are priced at $100.

    CTAC thanks for your detailed description of your DIY handlebar project. Probably a great way to save a 100 bucks with just a little extra labor.

  19. #19
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    At least we know know it can be done on the cheap. Next project is the under body light kit.

  20. #20
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    Cup holder installed. Gotta have one of those!

    20181229_141316.jpg

  21. #21
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
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    How about a photograph of you (or a proxy) sitting on the bike with your hands on the grips? It would give us a reference.

  22. #22
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    20181230_191753.jpg

    Not sure if this picture will show exactly what you would like to see.

    Next project is add a lumbar support! I am gonna do my best to make this a pseudo touring machine.

  23. #23
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    20181230_191753.jpg

    Not sure if this picture will show exactly what you would like to see.

    Next project is add a lumbar support! I am gonna do my best to make this a pseudo touring machine.
    I am thinking something similar. The tail trunk will be my back rest. I think I am going to hold off on the SHAD side bag and see if the aftermarket offers two bags. Even if they are different sizes. A lot will depend on range to fill up.

  24. #24
    Active Member NM Wrench's Avatar
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    1547061224754.jpg

    I did the Handlebar rotation yesterday and am a little disappointed. It went well but after inverting and rotating 180 degrees the wire hold down and drainage holes have ended up on the top of the bars. I am now looking for some small rubber plugs to fil the holes before spending a hundred bucks for new bars from BRP. Can anyone help me figure out what I might have done wrong? My wife needs the bars at this position so she can ride upright and not leaned over for comfort.

  25. #25
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NM Wrench View Post
    1547061224754.jpg

    I did the Handlebar rotation yesterday and am a little disappointed. It went well but after inverting and rotating 180 degrees the wire hold down and drainage holes have ended up on the top of the bars. I am now looking for some small rubber plugs to fil the holes before spending a hundred bucks for new bars from BRP. Can anyone help me figure out what I might have done wrong? My wife needs the bars at this position so she can ride upright and not leaned over for comfort.
    How about a little bit of colored silicone sealer in the holes?

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