Tools needed for Ryker wheel change

[PW2013STL]

You will need BRP socket #529036457, and a torque wrench that goes to 300 nm (221 #lbs). Plus a large external snap ring plyers.

[Chupaca]

Or go to the dealer... guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump.... my weight

[canamjhb]

Or go to the dealer... guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump.... my weight

Or, do what I do. Enjoy a few extra calories and use 3/4th of your body weight and not have to try to jump.

[Sarge707]

Everything else seems to be fairly customer friendly, why not the tire removal. I have to take the front off to wire my led fender lights unless the amber cap on the side comes off because I will run the wires up in that tunnel and the light will start just past the tunnel.

[Culpjp]

It's held on with one nut and a spring clip. I'm not sure if you can even rent the tool anywhere. If you watch Sean Smoak's second vlog on the Ryker he shows the tool you need to remove the nut. Also not very many cheap torque wrenches will go that high.
It seems for all the things that BRP made easier to service on the Ryker, the tires aren't one of them.

[Winnex3]

well its not hard it will just cost you more than you would like if you already had the tools it would be no big deal

[Mikey]

Don't know what the tool cost but if your handy with a torch or plasma rig you could easily make the tool! And just use the 220, jump method.

[Sarge707]

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/...6457-part.html

NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.

[Tslepebull]

The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7235_200627235

65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m....ce53f7f2a90643

[PW2013STL]

The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7235_200627235

65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m....ce53f7f2a90643

I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164

[Tslepebull]

I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164

Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.

[Sarge707]

https://www.amazon.com/Can-Am-New-So.../dp/B07KLNGP97

NOT CHEAP for the OEM version.

[CTAC]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

[PW2013STL]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

You can go back to the dealer and ask them to check it and see if they will allow you to watch them do it so you will know if they have the correct tools and not doing the 220# Bubba method

[CTAC]

Thanks... I will do that on Wednesday ☺

[Tslepebull]

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

What you are hearing is likely drive-line lash. It is common in any shaft drive bike. It is caused by the play between the teeth on the shaft drive meshing with those of the final drive. It actually needs to be there so that the lubricant can flow between the gear teeth. All of my BMW's have done it. It would still be a good idea to verify with the dealer just to be sure.

[cueman]

Dealer told me it is the CVT clutch working. Normal noise of the parts. IMO it is just a quirk we need to get used to. cueman

I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

[CTAC]

Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.

[Grandpaspeed]

Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.

Glad you got a answer

[PMK]

My thought, if you own a Ryker, buy the correct tool. The cost is not inexpensive, but not break the bank.

Get the correct socket, keep a note of the correct torque, then store it on your Ryker at all times. If you have an issue with a flat or failed tire, the current trend from tire shops is not to install a plug from the outside. The tire shop removes the tire and patches it.

Without the correct tool, damage may occurr to the nut, which no doubt is expensive also. Without the tool, a simple flat tire may require a tow to the nearest Can Am dealer, which will likely only replace the tire.

As for the torque wrench, those that have experienced incorrect torques from an inexpensive torque wrench understand why a quality torque wrench is essential. I would be more comfortable applying 110 pounds directly into a 2 foot long bar or 73 pounds onto a 3 foot bar vs using an inexpensive torque wrench that has not been calibrated.

[jcthorne]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

s-l640.jpg

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

[PW2013STL]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

s-l640.jpg

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

Check out my link in post 10.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

s-l640.jpg

These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

If the drawing in the parts diagram is reasonably accurate it doesn't look like it will. A standard 12 pt socket may fit.

Ryker axle nut.JPG

[Ravent25]

I thought the hub looked about the same size as my old Bronco hub Socket, Ill will be checking through my tools now..

[bscrive]

Why would Can Am do such a stupid thing. My 1800 Valkyrie is a single swing arm and the wheel is put on with 5 lug nuts just like a car. Doesn't make sense to me. I think their engineers are looking at formula 1 race cars too much.