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  1. #26
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    It could be a well thought out plan to extract more $ out of your pocket if you plan on going through a lot of tires! LOL. I see that some of us are also Honda owners. We must be brothers & sisters from another mother! LOL cueman

  2. #27
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

    1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

    The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

    3139.jpgs-l640.jpg
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  3. #28
    Active Member Winnex3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobwebs View Post
    Lower parts count to keep the cost down was the official reason on one of the early vids,same went for the shaft drive it was cheaper to produce than the belt and pulleys etc, with the bonus of being superior engineering for the job at hand.
    Can-Am opted for a shaft drive on the 2019 Can-Am Ryker for two reasons. First, a shaft has reduced maintenance and improved longevity compared to a belt or chain drive. Second, the low-slung seating position conflicted with the belt drive found on the Spyder variants, so the Rykerís shaft drive simultaneously serves as form and function. Itís a good solution for those who arenít mechanically inclined.

  4. #29
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winnex3 View Post
    Can-Am opted for a shaft drive on the 2019 Can-Am Ryker for two reasons. First, a shaft has reduced maintenance and improved longevity compared to a belt or chain drive. Second, the low-slung seating position conflicted with the belt drive found on the Spyder variants, so the Ryker’s shaft drive simultaneously serves as form and function. It’s a good solution for those who aren’t mechanically inclined.
    There are advantages and disadvantages to shaft drive. Just like there are with any drive design. But I agree. For the Ryker, it's a good pick. It certainly will appeal to many.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  5. #30
    Active Member Michaelscs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

    1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

    The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

    3139.jpgs-l640.jpg
    Ron, you have a Ryker and I don't, but the straight cut tool in the first picture looks like exactly the right one, not the round cut tool.
    I'm basing this on the Ryker wheel nut shown in Smoaks video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv8ZgGaMN9Y&t=181s
    Look at minute 2:43 on the video. What am I missing?

  6. #31
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michaelscs View Post
    Ron, you have a Ryker and I don't, but the straight cut tool in the first picture looks like exactly the right one, not the round cut tool.
    I'm basing this on the Ryker wheel nut shown in Smoaks video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv8ZgGaMN9Y&t=181s
    Look at minute 2:43 on the video. What am I missing?
    I agree. Looking at the video the nut looks like it has pointed corners, and the BMW tool he shows like a straight cut. If you go to my post #10 the link will take you right to where he shows the nut.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
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  7. #32
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    Dealer told me it is the CVT clutch working. Normal noise of the parts. IMO it is just a quirk we need to get used to. cueman
    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

  8. #33
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    Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    Thanks cueman... As long as it "is what it is", I can accept it.... Just didn't want anything loose causing the secondary pop sound.
    Glad you got a answer

  10. #35
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

    Ryker axle nut.JPG

    These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.
    If the drawing in the parts diagram is reasonably accurate it doesn't look like it will. A standard 12 pt socket may fit.


    2014 Copper RTS

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  11. #36
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of the Spyder nut from Smoaks' video superimposed on a 12 pt Iveco socket. The socket was a 95 mm but scaling it to fit the nut doesn't change the shape.

    Iveco socket with Spyder nut.jpg

    I don't know if Iveco is a particular configuration different from a regular 12 pt or just a name that's been stuck on large hub nuts. But it looks like that's the socket you all want, not the Ford hub nut. Part of the Spyder nut is missing or otherwise messed up because of photo editing.

    Looks like the best way to find one is search for Iveco or Ford Transit 65 mm socket.

    2014 Copper RTS

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  12. #37
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    The wheel nuts are aluminum so be careful putting them on.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    You will need BRP socket #529036457, and a torque wrench that goes to 300 nm (221 #lbs). Plus a large external snap ring plyers.
    there is nothing in the tool kit or something hidden under the bodywork that comes with the bike
    2 happy happy spyders

  14. #39
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    What do you want for 10 G's

  15. #40
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    My tool kit was a screw driver handle with a reversible Philips and flat blade. cueman

  16. #41
    Very Active Member Rogue Hawk's Avatar
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  17. #42
    Member watertowerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winnex3 View Post
    20180419_133608_HDR-1-1.jpg love my Valkyrie cant wait for my Rally Ryker
    I love my Valkyrie but can't wait to get my Ryker Rally

  18. #43
    Member watertowerman's Avatar
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    20181217_155515.jpg Love my Valkyrie also and can not wait for My Ryker Rally
    Last edited by watertowerman; 01-04-2019 at 09:45 AM. Reason: would not down load pic

  19. #44
    Member watertowerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I purchased a 65mm socket for the Ford axle/hub nut. It appears to be the same shape as the Ryker wheel nut and it was pretty inexpensive.

    1st picture is of a standard, straight edge, hex cut socket. This one will certainly NOT work on the Ryker wheel nut.

    The 2nd picture is of the socket I purchased with a rounded tooth configuration very similar to the Ryker rear wheel nut. A subtle but significant difference. I'm hoping to get lucky here but I have some doubts that it will work. Still, for the price I thought it worth a shot. We will soon see. It should deliver early next week.

    3139.jpgs-l640.jpg
    Did the socket fit?

  20. #45
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Got the socket in and it fits.... sort of. It is just a bit loose. But otherwise, it mates up well enough to use as long as you're not doing it with an impact wrench. I thought I was getting something other than a standard 65mm socket. But a standard 65mm socket is what I got. Michaelscs called it in a previous post. To me the cut appears to be rounded in the picture of the socket (on the right) which is the one I purchased. It was supposed to be a Ford Hub Nut socket. But in reality, it is a straight cut.

    This is the one I got. I'm not sure they sent me what they are claiming to be selling.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/CT4013-3-4-...72.m2749.l2649
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  21. #46
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    So you didn't actually get the one in the ebay link? Sorry, I'm confused.

  22. #47
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HongKongPhooey View Post
    So you didn't actually get the one in the ebay link? Sorry, I'm confused.
    I assumed that a Ford Hub Nut Socket was different than a standard 65mm socket. The picture appeared to me, to be different. But since I don't actually know if there is a difference, I have no idea. Maybe someone here does know.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  23. #48
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Got the socket in and it fits.... sort of. It is just a bit loose. But otherwise, it mates up well enough to use as long as you're not doing it with an impact wrench. I thought I was getting something other than a standard 65mm socket. But a standard 65mm socket is what I got. Michaelscs called it in a previous post. To me the cut appears to be rounded in the picture of the socket (on the right) which is the one I purchased. It was supposed to be a Ford Hub Nut socket. But in reality, it is a straight cut.

    This is the one I got. I'm not sure they sent me what they are claiming to be selling.
    Based on what I found w/ Google I think you got a Ford hub nut socket, meaning it is a socket for the Iveco and Ford Transit (made by Iveco??), but not for other Fords. In my pic above it looks like it is a straight cut normal type socket which I thought, based on the drawing in the parts diagrams and the photo from Smoaks video, would fit pretty good.

    How about posting a clear straight on photo, with dimensions, of the Ryker hub nut?

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.

  24. #49
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    ???? Why doesn't someone just go to a Ford Dealer and ask the Service Mgr to see if the official tool fits.

    You all are making this too hard and complicated. Also stop your Ryker dealer and ask to see their official tool.

    You all are making this way too complicated...........Ride your Ryker and give their tool a try.
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  25. #50
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    Dumb question, but an oil remover is 65mm do you think that would work??

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