Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 118
  1. #1
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    ST Bonifacius, MN
    Posts
    2,866
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Tools needed for Ryker wheel change

    You will need BRP socket #529036457, and a torque wrench that goes to 300 nm (221 #lbs). Plus a large external snap ring plyers.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Diego, CA.
    Posts
    30,162
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Of course...!!

    Or go to the dealer... guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump.... my weight
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,324
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Everything else seems to be fairly customer friendly, why not the tire removal. I have to take the front off to wire my led fender lights unless the amber cap on the side comes off because I will run the wires up in that tunnel and the light will start just past the tunnel.
    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  4. #4
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    208
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    It's held on with one nut and a spring clip. I'm not sure if you can even rent the tool anywhere. If you watch Sean Smoak's second vlog on the Ryker he shows the tool you need to remove the nut. Also not very many cheap torque wrenches will go that high.
    It seems for all the things that BRP made easier to service on the Ryker, the tires aren't one of them.

  5. #5
    Active Member Winnex3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Paw paw mi
    Posts
    151
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    well its not hard it will just cost you more than you would like if you already had the tools it would be no big deal

  6. #6
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Durham,Maine
    Posts
    248
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Don't know what the tool cost but if your handy with a torch or plasma rig you could easily make the tool! And just use the 220, jump method.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,324
    Spyder Garage
    0
    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    3,324
    Spyder Garage
    0
    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

    Sea Doo GTI-SE 90 Jet Ski!!

  9. #9
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    267
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7235_200627235

    65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m....ce53f7f2a90643

  10. #10
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    ST Bonifacius, MN
    Posts
    2,866
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tslepebull View Post
    The torque wrench shouldn't be too bad. Even in 3/4" drive its only about $110 . https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7235_200627235

    65 mm socket is only about $40. https://www.toolbarn.com/sunex-465m....ce53f7f2a90643
    I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
    As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

    https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  11. #11
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    107
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?

  12. #12
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    ST Bonifacius, MN
    Posts
    2,866
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?
    You can go back to the dealer and ask them to check it and see if they will allow you to watch them do it so you will know if they have the correct tools and not doing the 220# Bubba method
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  13. #13
    Active Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    KS
    Posts
    107
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Thanks... I will do that on Wednesday ☺

  14. #14
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Mesa, Arid-Zone-A
    Posts
    1,316
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Or go to the dealer... guess if you do some of your own work it is worth it but seeing as there is no belt you only need it to change the tire. Could rent the wrench or do what I do...220lbs full body weight and an extra jump.... my weight
    Or, do what I do. Enjoy a few extra calories and use 3/4th of your body weight and not have to try to jump.
    Platinum Silver Satin 2014 RTL, Driver Backrest. Baha Ron Bar, Elka Shocks, Hiway pegs, Lighted Bump Skid, Centramatic Wheel Balancers, Wide Vu Mirrors, Third Tail/Brake light, Missing Belt Guard, Federal Formoza front and General Altimax rear tires, Squared Away, Mirror turn signals, Vibration Damper, Magnetic Mirrors, Matching RT622 Trailer.....Semper Fi....

    .]

  15. #15
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    2,204
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    My thought, if you own a Ryker, buy the correct tool. The cost is not inexpensive, but not break the bank.

    Get the correct socket, keep a note of the correct torque, then store it on your Ryker at all times. If you have an issue with a flat or failed tire, the current trend from tire shops is not to install a plug from the outside. The tire shop removes the tire and patches it.

    Without the correct tool, damage may occurr to the nut, which no doubt is expensive also. Without the tool, a simple flat tire may require a tow to the nearest Can Am dealer, which will likely only replace the tire.

    As for the torque wrench, those that have experienced incorrect torques from an inexpensive torque wrench understand why a quality torque wrench is essential. I would be more comfortable applying 110 pounds directly into a 2 foot long bar or 73 pounds onto a 3 foot bar vs using an inexpensive torque wrench that has not been calibrated.

  16. #16
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    267
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CTAC View Post
    I kinda wonder if my rear wheel wasn't torqued properly. When I accelerate forward after being in reverse.... or, after deceleration/stop... I hear the typical clunk of the drive shaft and then a moment later after the acceleration continues, I hear/feel a pop... almost as if the spline joint slips just a little because the nut isn't tight enough???? I dunno. Thoughts anyone?
    What you are hearing is likely drive-line lash. It is common in any shaft drive bike. It is caused by the play between the teeth on the shaft drive meshing with those of the final drive. It actually needs to be there so that the lubricant can flow between the gear teeth. All of my BMW's have done it. It would still be a good idea to verify with the dealer just to be sure.

  17. #17
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    267
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    I do not believe that 65 mm socket would work as the nut used on the Ryker is not standard shaped. This is based off what Shawn S. Showed in his first video so I could be wrong.
    As for the T wrench years back I was able to pick up a used snap-on 3/4" that goes up to 250 ft# from a snap-on salesman that was a trade in for a fraction of the cost.

    https://youtu.be/nv8ZgGaMN9Y?t=164
    Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    ST Bonifacius, MN
    Posts
    2,866
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tslepebull View Post
    Now I see what you are saying. The nut looks like is way more than 6 sided. The Can-Am tool it will be.
    I counted 12.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  19. #19
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    4,885
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

    s-l640.jpg

    These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S

  20. #20
    Active Member Tslepebull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    267
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    I counted 12.
    This is actually listed as a socket specifically for a 12-point hub nut. It is cheap enough I may buy one and give it a try. If it is not a perfect fit the fall-back plan can still be the Can-Am part.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/65mm-HUB-NU...T/262670282877
    Last edited by Tslepebull; 12-25-2018 at 02:19 PM. Reason: correction

  21. #21
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    ST Bonifacius, MN
    Posts
    2,866
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Does anyone have a close up picture of the hub nut? Will a standard 65mm hub nut socket fit this?

    s-l640.jpg

    These are pretty common in the truck service field. Many Fords use a 65mm hub nut. The socket is under $20 at most auto parts stores. $40 will get you a name brand one.
    Check out my link in post 10.
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  22. #22
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    1,307
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Why would Can Am do such a stupid thing. My 1800 Valkyrie is a single swing arm and the wheel is put on with 5 lug nuts just like a car. Doesn't make sense to me. I think their engineers are looking at formula 1 race cars too much.

  23. #23
    Active Member Winnex3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Paw paw mi
    Posts
    151
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    my bike.jpg love my Valkyrie cant wait for my Rally Ryker

  24. #24
    Very Active Member chris56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    austria
    Posts
    1,079
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    HAUBEOFF.jpgmaybe one of the Designers has an old Jaguar E ??
    I love the idea of opening the front for service and the way how they fixed the wheels !!

    https://mossmotors.com/long-handle-k...nal-knock-offs
    Ryker 900 - Fox-shock - TOYO - larger shield - 2up & a topace

  25. #25
    Active Member Cobwebs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    73
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bscrive View Post
    Why would Can Am do such a stupid thing. My 1800 Valkyrie is a single swing arm and the wheel is put on with 5 lug nuts just like a car. Doesn't make sense to me. I think their engineers are looking at formula 1 race cars too much.
    Lower parts count to keep the cost down was the official reason on one of the early vids,same went for the shaft drive it was cheaper to produce than the belt and pulleys etc, with the bonus of being superior engineering for the job at hand.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •